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Maytag Large Capacity Washer/Dryer Combo Unit-Not spinning

Not Spinning Maytag W/D Combo

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25 replies to this topic

#1 mmpiedra

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 03:31 PM

Hello,

My Maytag LC W/D Combo is cycling (meaning the timer and control unit is winding down the minutes and the the various cycles) However, the washer is not spinning (or washing potentially) I got there when it should have been spinning but it wasn't; however, the "SPIN" cycle light was on and the time counter was winding down but no spin. It seems the motor is not getting a signal or any power to spin. At this point, I know it began to wash but I left so I do not know at what point it stopped.

I believe the problem was caused because I over loaded it.

I checked what I believe to be the "motor relay" attached on the LEFT side panel (above the other relay that is clear or see through). I opened it and nothing seems out of order (burned/stuck). The inside reminded me of the points on my old VW distributor cap. I also performed a continuity test with my tester and everything seems to work. I ran a full cycle and watched both relays and the clear relay DOES NOT do anything but nothing seems burned, stuck or seemingly out of order. The black relay without the cover, seems to make the connections its supposed to as the machine cycles, opened and closed when it should, which leads me to believe that this relay may be okay, maybe its the clear relay...

I smelled the motor and it did NOT smell like it had suffered any...

Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

Mo :thumbsup:

Edited by mmpiedra, 07 August 2012 - 04:14 PM.


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 04:21 PM

does this unit have a model number ?
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#3 mmpiedra

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 04:27 PM

Where would the model be? I looked all over the front and all it reads is Maytag Large Capacity Heavy Duty Plus

After reading some other posts, its the model may be SG1000 its a very old model but a good one...
Maytag-Outside labeling


Posted Image

Edited by mmpiedra, 08 August 2012 - 06:15 PM.


#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 04:53 PM

Model number location help here ==> http://www.repaircli...My-Model-Number

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 10:02 PM

... model may be SG1000 its a very old model but a good one...

sounds about right ..
I'll do some checking .
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#6 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 06:41 AM

I believe the model number will be inside the dryer door area on that unit.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#7 mmpiedra

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 01:00 PM

Yes, silly me...I never thought to look at the dryer... Thank you! Its LSG990 4AAM

Maytag Model Info


Posted Image
I hope this helps...laundry is piling up and I am getting the looks from my wife about trying to wash garage shop related items... Thank you! Any advice is appreciated.

Edited by mmpiedra, 08 August 2012 - 06:16 PM.


#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 01:17 PM

Use your meter to check and see if you're getting 120vac clear up to the motor on the Black wire. If not, then follow that black wire back to the motor reversing relay and check to see if you're getting 120vac into it on the black wire. ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=LSG9904AAM

Relay-206421-00572903.jpg



#9 mmpiedra

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 03:20 PM

Okay, I looked at the black wire leading to the motor and it comes from the "Solid Black" relay, then there is another black wire coming from the same relay going to what seems to be the Main Power Source/Control Panel behind the back of the machine. In order to test if I am getting 120vac clear up to the motor on the Black wire I need to set my meter to read Volts, set it to the 250 mark since it goes from 10, 50, 250, 500 and place either the "Black" or "Red" terminal poles from the meter, one touching the "Black" wire on the motor and the other terminal pole on the "Black" wire coming from what I believe to be the Main Power Supply/Control Panel, correct. So what will end up in between is the "Black Relay". This will test if the power supply is reaching the motor as it goes through the "Black Relay", correct? I did a similar continuity test between the "Incoming" power supply terminal on the relay and the "Outgoing" (the one with blue tape) and I manually made the connection by touching the points powered by the "Yellow" wire which comes from the Control Panel and the meter showed there was continuity between the two, again it would indicate that its working as it should, correct?

Black motor Relay



Posted Image
The wire with the "Blue" painters tape (Picture above) is the one going to the motor (picture below). The other "Black wire" covered with a plastic terminal connection on the end comes from a set of wires coming from the power supply near the back of the machine.

Washer Motor Terminals



Posted Image



There is no "Black" wire going to the "Motor Reversing Relay" The only wire which communicates with the black relay is the "Grey wire", which splits in two or three ways to other components

Relay (Motor Reversing Washer)



Posted Image

I just need confirmation that I am using the Tester correctly. Thank you!

Edited by mmpiedra, 08 August 2012 - 06:19 PM.


#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 03:58 PM

None of your pictures are showing up in any of your posts. Please edit your posts and correct the links so they appear and we can see wassahoppenin. :smokin:

#11 Scottthewolf

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 05:30 PM

Check item # 25. The Molex connector where the wiring harness plugs into for the washer part has a tendency to come loose and makes the control panel for the washer work, but not the rest of the washer.

http://www.whirlpool...previousPage=10

Edited by Scottthewolf, 08 August 2012 - 05:31 PM.

Scott Wolf

#12 mmpiedra

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 06:21 PM

Okay, I reposted the pics in my albums, which I hope allows everyone to see the pics now... I did check the connector and everything seems nice and tighty.

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 07:18 PM

In this picture, on the (3) "closest" un-insulated Terminals
When the Washer should be running,
check for 120v AC (to chassis, ground)
on the
Red wire
Red wire
White wire
sml_gallery_72334_51_806049.jpg

may be a bad Motor
http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1063646

 

Drive-Motor-12002351-01001258.jpg


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#14 mmpiedra

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 10:56 AM

Thank you. How do I perform this exactly. I turned the control module to spin and of course nothing happens, then I set my meter to volts 250 setting.
I placed the red test pole to the first "Red wire" and then to the black test meter pole to the "Green" ground wire from the motor to the unit frame (Is this Chasis ground?), is this correct? Nothing happened on the meter. The same was performed for the other two remaining wires (red, white)

Without really knowing what is going on technically, it seems no power is going to the motor at all. I also noticed the Motor Rewinding relay does not do anything at all, unlike the Black relay that seems to function (the points touch and dissengage) when it should be washing or spinning.

Is there a way to test the motor by itself? Is it possible to disconnect power from both units (a) The dryer which powers the control module and B) the washer) and then connect two hot (110) independent wires directly to the "Red" and "Black" wires on the motor to see if it spins any? Just a thought.

Thank you very much...

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 11:38 AM

... The black relay without the cover, seems to make the connections its supposed to as the machine cycles,
... opened and closed when it should, which leads me to believe that this relay may be okay,

"seems to make connections" ?
did you check the for 120v AC at each of the Black wires when the Relay should be "closed" ?
.

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#16 mmpiedra

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 12:48 PM

I never received confirmation on how to exactly do that...can you please be specifc as to how I should use the meter? Thank you! For clarification, both relays are making their connections as they should based on the signal they receive from the control unit, I ran a full wash cycle and both relays open and close based on the cycle, however, my reference to "It seems" is based on the fact that I dont know if that specifically indicates that the Relay is not bad, thats all. That said, they ARE both opening and closing according to the wash cycle, the counter on the display winds down as if it was working but the washer never spins for a wash or for the spin cycle. Thank you!

#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 12:55 PM

... did you check the for 120v AC at each of the Black wires when the Relay should be "closed" ?


I never received confirmation on how to exactly do that...can you please be specifc as to how I should use the meter?

should have been one of your first tests:

one Meter Probe on one of the Black wires
other Meter Probe on green/ground

repeat with the other Black wire

http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1449982

 

Relay-W10133335-00908400.jpg


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#18 mmpiedra

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 12:55 PM

I placed each of the meter poles on each black wire on the Black relay when the control display indicated it should be spinning and the meter did not read anything.

#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 01:09 PM

I placed each of the meter poles on each black wire on the Black relay when the control display indicated it should be spinning and the meter did not read anything.

that was reading the voltage across the (2) black wires ?
OR from each Black wire to green/ground ?

OK, when the Washer should be running,
one Meter Probe on the White wire of the clear Relay
other Probe on one Black wire of the black Relay
then:
one Meter Probe on the White wire of the clear Relay
other Probe on other Black wire of the black Relay
.

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#20 mmpiedra

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 01:13 PM

Yes, you are absolutely right. I did do that and nothing registers on the meter for either black cable.





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