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brasspenny

mah2400 stacked washer

7 posts in this topic

First time poster,

I have a stacked washer (Maytag mah2400) that, based on the technician tests has a bad motor ( 3E code, near short in one of the stator windings, and the motor test only rotates the drum in one direction.

OK I can replace the motor, but what caused it to burn out? I am afraid that if I replace it the PCB will just burn it out also.

Next question is how can I test the Power Control Board to see if it also needs to be replaced?

Add to this I know of another mah2400 washer with the same symptoms. Serious money is starting to be involved!

thank you

al the newbie.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

First thing, let's get into service mode and see what it'll do. Do you have the tech sheet for this washer? If not, you can borrow mine:

Service Mode

Service Mode enables service personnel to verify the operation of the washing machine and diagnose problems. Service Mode can be entered in the middle of any wash cycle without interrupting the cycle. While in Service Mode, the technician can cancel the current cycle, set a continuous running mode, start a variety of special service tests and view diagnostic displays.

Enter / Exit Service Mode

To enter Service Mode press the Spin and Temperature keys for three seconds or until the control beeps.

NOTE: The washer must be ‘ON’ before Service Mode can be entered.

The motor speed will be displayed when started (motor not running display will be 0). The present state of the machine will not be changed (i.e., the current cycle in progress will not be interrupted and only the display will change). All LED’s will be turned ‘OFF’ except the “Door Lock” LED. It will continue to display the condition of the door lock.

To exit: 1) Press Spin and Temperature keys for 3 seconds again, or 2) press Power Off, or 3) unplug the machine. Pressing the Start/Pause button while running a test will pause the individual test, while remaining in Service Mode.

Do tell.

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... near short in one of the stator windings,

... and the motor test only rotates the drum in one direction.

1) normal Stator Windings are 1 OHM (almost a short) . . . . What were the actual OHM readings ?

2) sounds like the Motor may be OK, and the Controller is bad

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I had gone into service mode and ran the motor test. The motor would spin one way for the five seconds, pause for about seven seconds and then spin in the same direction. I took this to mean the other stator was down. When I measured the resistance of the stators I got around 1.3 ohms and .4 ohms on the other. The rotor was around 3.8 ohms. The fact that the stators didn't match was problematic to me and it had failed the motor test. Also one of the diagnostic codes that was stored was 3E, decoded as motor failure.

Do you have a electronic schematic for the board with actual parts and values of components? If the board is bad it may have damaged the motor, I guess.

thanks for your help.

How do you test that the board is bad?

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... Do you have a electronic schematic for the board with actual parts and values of components? I

... How do you test that the board is bad?

... If the board is bad it may have damaged the motor, I guess.

1) only exists for a very few appliance boards

2) do the tests that the appliance engineers(?) develop

3) the shorted Motor may have damaged the Controller

any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund (less shipping)

including installed electrical parts

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/1067867

 

Drive-Motor-34001122-00660811.jpg

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/1184314

 

Main-Control-Board-12002651-01025478.jpg

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I am seeing this as a what came first the chicken or the egg? I am thinking that the only way a motor should fail is if the machine was overloaded or jammed. But it makes sense that a falling resistance in one stator could over load the board. I am thinking of trying to figure out what the motor driver circuit is and trying to work backwards. I seem to remember that AC motors reactance is highly dependent on them running and when frozen they basically only the wire resistance, the 1.1 oms.

Looks like I need to purchase a motor and a board and then compare numbers with a working system.

Thanks for all your help and any other insight you have is appreciated.

al

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you could try swapping the (2) Stator winding wires ...

Pin 5 Blue

and

Pin 10 Violet

to see if the Motor will run in the opposite direction (bad Motor, good Controller,)

or not at all anymore (bad Motor and now even worse Controller)

What have you got to lose ?

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