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GE Profile Bottom Freezer (PFS22SISBSS) Slow to Cool after Defrost Cycle

defrost thermistor bottom freezer PFS22SISBSS

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6 replies to this topic

#1 The Breakinator

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 02:10 PM

Hello Everyone,

This is the best appliance repair website I've ever come across! Lots and lots of great stuff here!

I've been dealing with problems from this thing (GE Profile Bottom Freezer PFS22SISBSS) since I bought it 6 or so years ago. The motherboard and sealed system have both been replaced. The latest problem appears to be this: both the freezer and fridge take at least an hour or two to get back down to proper temperature after the defrost cycle. I've seen the refrigerator get as warm as 65 and the freezer at least into the 50's until the compressor kicks in.

The closest thing that I've been able to find to a service manual for this model is "31-9072-tech-manual-GSS23-GSS25-GSS27-PSS23-PSS27-PSS29-PSSS25", which I downloaded from this website.

I ran the defrost cycle using the front panel display. The heating element came on and melted all of the accumulated frost, but it seems to take a while for the compressor to get running again (both the compressor fans and condensor fans are working).

I also ran the thermistor diagnostic and got this:

P1 (fresh food top)
02 (fresh food bottom)
P3 (quick chill)
P4 (evaporator)
05 (freezer).

Which I believe is telling me that the fresh food bottom and freezer thermistors are bad. I then measured thermistor voltages as described on page 39 of the manual and got this:

Fresh Food Thermistor #1: 2.0 V
Fresh Food Thermistor #2: 4.86 V
Freezer Thermistor: 2.6 V
Evaporator Thermistor: 3.54 V
Thermistor Supply Voltage: 4.87 V

This is where I'm getting confused: None of my voltage readings were in spec (2.8-3.5V for the thermistors and 5V for the thermistor supply voltage). Also, the thermistor diagnostic suggests that there are 5 thermistors in this model, but the low-voltage locator table on page 39 only shows readings for 4 thermistors, the 5th being the supply voltage. Because the manual I'm using is for side-by-side models, if my problem is indeed the thermistors, I wouldn't know where to find them, or even if I had the right part(s).

I'm not quite sure what to do next, and would appreciate any help! Thanks everyone for your time.

Matt

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 02:39 PM

Depending on first two characters of the Fridge serial number,
original MotherBoard replacement may be covered under recall.

When the Mother Board was replaced, were the following instructions done ?
All BOTTOM FREEZER models:
STEP 2– ELIMINATE THERMISTOR WIRE IN PIN 2 OF J1 CONNECTOR
STEP 4– CUT GREEN WIRE IN CAPACITOR BOARD

Do you have the "newer" Thermistors ?
http://fixitnow.com/...ed-thermistors/
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#3 The Breakinator

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 04:59 PM

Hi RegUS_PatOff, I'm not sure if steps 2 and 4 were done when GE replaced the motherboard. There is no wire running to pin 2 of the J1 connector if that's what you mean. I don't know where the capacitor board is or how to get to the thermistors.

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 10:47 PM

There's a GE service bulletin out on this. Check the condenser fan motor speed-- these dinky fan motors are famous for running at slower than rated speed. The fan motor itself may be bad ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS

Posted Image


or the motor may not be getting at least 7.5 Vdc from the muthaboard. If the latter is the case, then you'll need to replace the muthaboard... again ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS

Posted Image

Also (yes, there's more!) if your serial number begins with AM or DM, the sealed system may be involved, which effectively mean new refrigerator time.

#5 The Breakinator

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 10:20 AM

There's a GE service bulletin out on this. Check the condenser fan motor speed-- these dinky fan motors are famous for running at slower than rated speed. The fan motor itself may be bad ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS


or the motor may not be getting at least 7.5 Vdc from the muthaboard. If the latter is the case, then you'll need to replace the muthaboard... again ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=PFS22SISBSS


Greetings, sensei. I'm measuring 7.67V across pins 3 and 5 of connector J2, so I guess that means the condenser fan is OK. Is there a way to check fan "speed" other than indirectly by measuring the voltage?

Also (yes, there's more!) if your serial number begins with AM or DM, the sealed system may be involved, which effectively mean new refrigerator time.


My serial number begins with "VH", but the sealed system had already been replaced anyway!

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 12:32 PM

If you're getting 7.67vdc at the motor (with the motor still connected) then that means the muthaboard is good. Fan motor may still be bad-- not spinning at rated speed. This can be hard to tell visually unless you have calibrated eyeballs. One easy way to tell is to remove the back panel for the compressor compartment (where the condenser fan is) and set up a fan blowing on the condenser coil. If you see a noticeable improvement in temperature regulation and recovery from defrost, then replace the condenser fan motor.

#7 The Breakinator

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 04:33 PM

If you're getting 7.67vdc at the motor (with the motor still connected) then that means the muthaboard is good. Fan motor may still be bad-- not spinning at rated speed. This can be hard to tell visually unless you have calibrated eyeballs. One easy way to tell is to remove the back panel for the compressor compartment (where the condenser fan is) and set up a fan blowing on the condenser coil. If you see a noticeable improvement in temperature regulation and recovery from defrost, then replace the condenser fan motor.


I directed a fan on the condensor coil for a few hours and it didn't seem to improve anything. Do you think it could be the thermistors? According to the diagnostic two of them are bad. I'm not sure how to get to them though--I haven't been able to find a manual yet.





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