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dvanallen

GE Oven Door Locked, Won't Unlock

7 posts in this topic

I have a GE Monogram model zdp48n6dhss. The oven doesn't have a digital display -- just 5 buttons (off, convect, bake, broil and clean) and thermostat knobs for the burners and ovens. The main 27" oven door is locked, the Door Locked light is on, and I can't figure out how to unlock it.

The oven came with the house. When we moved in a few years back, the latch was broken. I replaced the latch this past spring. We've never put it in Clean mode but today, my 2YO daughter thought it was a good idea to push the Clean button.

So far, I've tried:

  • Turning the breaker off for a few hours
  • Running the clean mode for 30 minutes, then turning the oven off
  • Running the clean mode overnight (currently trying this)

Is there anything else I can try to get the oven to open? What might be causing this problem? Is it related to this post?

Edited by dvanallen

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The stovetop and both ovens still heat. I'm wondering if I installed the latch wiring correctly. Is there a schematic available that shows the correct wiring?

Edited by dvanallen

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... Is there a schematic available that shows the correct wiring?

Pages from 31-9119.pdf

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This will help tremendously -- if I can understand it!

Here's an update to the problem. I used a thin 1/4" x 1" piece of oak trim moulding to push the lock mechanism open at the beginning of the clean cycle. Pushing from the right, I was actually able to open the oven. However, the lock mechanism is still engaged. How do I get it to open and stay open?

With the oven door open, I pushed the clean button and set the t-stat past broil to clean. Nothing happened. Then I pushed the lock/latch to the left with my hand. The fan turned on and the broil element started heating. When I released the latch, the fan stopped and the broil element began to cool. Then the latch began to swing from left to right and back. I then pushed the oven off button and set the t-stat to zero. The latch continued to automatically swing from left to right and back. I then closed the oven door, and the latch stopped swinging and locked the door closed.

Then I started another clean cycle and was able to get the door open again with my wooden stick. With the door open, the latch began swinging back and forth. I turned the oven and t-stat off and, with the latch still swinging back and forth, went to the basement and turned the breaker off. The latch is now in the mostly closed position, preventing the oven door from closing fully.

If I was to test for continuity on the wires/relays when the oven is going through it's motions, where should I start? Is it the K4 relay that needs power? Now that I can remove the lock assembly housing to get to the wires, should I test the K3 relay for power? Thanks for your help!

Edited by dvanallen

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OK, it's just 9 months later and my now 3-YO daugther decided to put the oven in a clean cycle again. Here's the fix I used last time:

 

With the door open and the latch swinging open to closed, I timed the latch as it swung back and forth and noticed that it ran on a 30 second interval, fully open at zero and fully closed at 30 seconds.

 

I turned the breaker off when it was on its second cycle of fully open (at 60 seconds). I then came upstairs and verified the latch was fully open (it was). Then, I turned the breaker back on.

 

I went upstairs and turned on the oven t-stat and set the oven to bake, and then convection and broil modes. The "door locked" light stayed off and the latch was not swinging back and forth. SUCCESS!

 

This doesn't fix the problem that the oven doesn't unlock after being put into clean cycle, but it does give me access to use the oven again. If you're willing to help me troubleshoot a permanent fix, I'm up for it. It would seem to be a matter of testing for voltage at the right time and in the right places . . .

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No need, you shouldn't use the self clean anyway.

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