Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn how to troubleshoot using schematics like a real tech…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
jb8103

Maytag dishwasher MDB1650-AWW

25 posts in this topic

Haven't seen this unit yet, I go out tomorrow. Can't find a specific service manual for it.

Customer complaint is blinking "delay wash" light, does not respond to any input. We tried the OFF/ON program this evening but no luck.

Any thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

MDB1650-AWW

maybe

MDB7650AWW ? :blink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking you're right, Reg.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

tech sheets

16023212.pdf

linl PM'd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can almost guarantee you it's a bad touchpad/console, these MDB model Maytag's are notorious for bad touchpads.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can almost guarantee you it's a bad touchpad/console, these MDB model Maytag's are notorious for bad touchpads.

The control does seem goofy. Did not get responses as described in the manual or tech sheet. The field service test ran but told me I had low current to the motor - don't think so.

I got the door panel off easy with a few screws, but what's the secret to those terminal plugs to the wax motors etc? I don't see how they come apart and I don't want to just wrench at them. Why break something else if I don't have to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Somebody must know. These aren't typical Molex type connectors or I wouldn't be asking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just need to wedge a flat blade screwdriver between terminal and wax motor and give it a little pry pressure and it will pop loose.

The terminals seem to hold really tight when they haven't been removed for a long time or have never been removed at least once before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, Willie. I thought it would be something like that.

In HVAC they're all easily recognizable Molex, not likely to tear wires out by the roots dealing with them.

Appliances, well, it's a slightly different world.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, just like Willie says, if there are any other grasshoppers watching.

Only problem is, it's not the touchpad control. It has to be the circuit board.

That means I eat the touchpad - $182.

All my learning experiences are like that...expensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund

(including installed electrical parts)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund

(including installed electrical parts)

This one was complex. Customer has company coming next week; RepairClinic was out of stock and not shipping until much later; so I bought the part from the local Maytag dealer. Highest price, shortest warranty, no returns - but he had it right there.

I really should have gambled on the control board first - RepairClinic had it in stock, could ship immediately, and if that was not the problem, full refund, then buy the console. It's got to be one of those two things.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turns out it was both: control panel and control board. Anyone seen that before?

I'm still not warm and fuzzy, as we ran out of time before completing a full cycle. It was delaying in the first wash, a heated wash, when I canceled it.

Edited by jb8103

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After the Dishwasher starts, check the water temprature inside ...

It may take the Heater 2 minutes per degree F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's what I thought was going on. This model likes to see 140 degrees. There is a specific temp check in the cycle chart, but also the system will extend cycle times if it has to.

Well, I'll feel better after she lives with it for a few days. I can uncross my fingers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

could run the kitchen sink hot water faucet till it gets hot, before starting the D/W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've advised the customer, but pretty sure she won't bother with that. Silly woman expects the dishwasher to just do its job.

You know, they've got all this other fancy pants augmentation in this machine, why not something actually useful like a temp readout?

But, noooo. Instead we get a "Delay" function that nobody cares about.

Edited by jb8103

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It may take the Heater 2 minutes per degree F

...and that's good info, TY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This one is getting real ugly. After replacing both the touchpad controls and the main circuit board (over $330), we have a different failure mode.

I get through the Rinse Only cycle OK.

Next was Light Wash. The machine hung in the first wash for 26 minutes - supposed to be ten minutes. It has a countdown timer display - finally went from 76 to 75, then 74, doing nothing, then shut itself off.

I drained the unit, at least that function still works, then entered Field Test Mode, which told me I had high current to the motor.

I'm stumped. Is it probable that we got a bad circuit board off the shelf?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

.. Is it probable that we got a bad circuit board off the shelf?

.. high current to the motor.

1) new ? OR from eBay ?

2) could be bad or jammed Motor

Had this D/W been working OK up till now at this location ?

"that's what she said"

OR bought from Craigslist ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The circuit board is new from RepairClinic. The touchpad is new from Maytag. The unit itself was installed new in 2005, no problems in this location until last year, when the touchpad was first replaced about ten months ago.

How would a bad motor or open limit explain a long delay in the wash cycle and then a shutdown?

Edited by jb8103

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to get down there and check everything. Damn if it is the motor; a $600 repair will not fly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites