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Maytag dishwasher MDB1650-AWW


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24 replies to this topic

#1 jb8103

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 07:36 PM

Haven't seen this unit yet, I go out tomorrow. Can't find a specific service manual for it.

Customer complaint is blinking "delay wash" light, does not respond to any input. We tried the OFF/ON program this evening but no luck.

Any thoughts?
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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:12 PM

MDB1650-AWW

maybe
MDB7650AWW ? :blink:
.

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#3 jb8103

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:22 PM

I'm thinking you're right, Reg.
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#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:32 PM

tech sheets
16023212.pdf
linl PM'd
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 06:32 AM

I can almost guarantee you it's a bad touchpad/console, these MDB model Maytag's are notorious for bad touchpads.
William Burk (Willie)
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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 06:50 AM

Touchpanel part link ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=MDB7650AWW

#7 jb8103

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 07:44 PM

I can almost guarantee you it's a bad touchpad/console, these MDB model Maytag's are notorious for bad touchpads.


The control does seem goofy. Did not get responses as described in the manual or tech sheet. The field service test ran but told me I had low current to the motor - don't think so.

I got the door panel off easy with a few screws, but what's the secret to those terminal plugs to the wax motors etc? I don't see how they come apart and I don't want to just wrench at them. Why break something else if I don't have to.
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#8 jb8103

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 04:08 AM

Somebody must know. These aren't typical Molex type connectors or I wouldn't be asking.
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#9 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 05:53 AM

Just need to wedge a flat blade screwdriver between terminal and wax motor and give it a little pry pressure and it will pop loose.

The terminals seem to hold really tight when they haven't been removed for a long time or have never been removed at least once before.
William Burk (Willie)
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#10 jb8103

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 07:25 PM

Thanks for that, Willie. I thought it would be something like that.

In HVAC they're all easily recognizable Molex, not likely to tear wires out by the roots dealing with them.

Appliances, well, it's a slightly different world.
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#11 jb8103

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 02:02 PM

OK, just like Willie says, if there are any other grasshoppers watching.

Only problem is, it's not the touchpad control. It has to be the circuit board.

That means I eat the touchpad - $182.

All my learning experiences are like that...expensive.
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#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 02:05 PM

any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund
(including installed electrical parts)
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#13 jb8103

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 05:03 PM

any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund
(including installed electrical parts)


This one was complex. Customer has company coming next week; RepairClinic was out of stock and not shipping until much later; so I bought the part from the local Maytag dealer. Highest price, shortest warranty, no returns - but he had it right there.

I really should have gambled on the control board first - RepairClinic had it in stock, could ship immediately, and if that was not the problem, full refund, then buy the console. It's got to be one of those two things.
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#14 jb8103

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 06:13 PM

Turns out it was both: control panel and control board. Anyone seen that before?

I'm still not warm and fuzzy, as we ran out of time before completing a full cycle. It was delaying in the first wash, a heated wash, when I canceled it.

Edited by jb8103, 18 September 2012 - 06:13 PM.

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#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:04 PM

After the Dishwasher starts, check the water temprature inside ...
It may take the Heater 2 minutes per degree F
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#16 jb8103

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:07 PM

That's what I thought was going on. This model likes to see 140 degrees. There is a specific temp check in the cycle chart, but also the system will extend cycle times if it has to.

Well, I'll feel better after she lives with it for a few days. I can uncross my fingers.
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#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:30 PM

could run the kitchen sink hot water faucet till it gets hot, before starting the D/W
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 jb8103

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:17 AM

I've advised the customer, but pretty sure she won't bother with that. Silly woman expects the dishwasher to just do its job.

You know, they've got all this other fancy pants augmentation in this machine, why not something actually useful like a temp readout?

But, noooo. Instead we get a "Delay" function that nobody cares about.

Edited by jb8103, 19 September 2012 - 04:18 AM.

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#19 jb8103

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:34 AM

It may take the Heater 2 minutes per degree F


...and that's good info, TY
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#20 jb8103

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:21 PM

This one is getting real ugly. After replacing both the touchpad controls and the main circuit board (over $330), we have a different failure mode.

I get through the Rinse Only cycle OK.

Next was Light Wash. The machine hung in the first wash for 26 minutes - supposed to be ten minutes. It has a countdown timer display - finally went from 76 to 75, then 74, doing nothing, then shut itself off.

I drained the unit, at least that function still works, then entered Field Test Mode, which told me I had high current to the motor.

I'm stumped. Is it probable that we got a bad circuit board off the shelf?
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