Shorted V-L to manually activate the water valve. This checks several things: water supply/water valve/frozen inlet. Water flowed into IM.
So I replace the entire Ice Maker, no joy.
Turns out that when you short V-L, you are sending 120 volts to the water valve, BUT the ice maker sends the voltage in SERIES with the Mold Heater (72 ohms). So you are getting using ohms law (assuming the water valve is ~175 ohms) about 85-90 Volts to the water valve. It turned out that this valve refused to operate at the normal voltage below 120, but when full 120v "test" voltage was applied, it opened up just nicely.
Replaced the valve, all is well. By the way, I tried replacing just the valve coil to no avail, it turns out that the sticking mechanical guts of the valve were requiring the extra voltage to get them to move.
Thought I would share this. Now I need a test rig that contains a 72 ohm resistance to properly test the water valve in the future.
Also on the subzero 532, you can replace the valve without having to jack up the unit. Remove the ONE screw that you can easily see and get to where the water enters the valve. This will allow the valve to slide out of the bracket to be replaced. No need to remove any other screws, especially since you cant see them or remove them easily.
Edited by mehoss, 15 September 2012 - 08:28 AM.