Fisher Paykal DD605 Dish Drawerdd605 heater plate controller
Posted 18 September 2012 - 01:10 PM
Within 6 months of new install, problems. The unit's top drawer would run and run and run and run. A call to the company and two - yes two supposedly qualified repair companies and four visits finally isolated the issue to a controller in the top drawer. The first company told me to run hot water in a faucet first, before operation the unit. Of course to no avail. The second first atatcked the heater plate, I did not pay attention, but this failed to beat the issue, hence a new controller.
Now, a mere 2 years later the same issue with the bottom drawer. No error codes, just sticks and runs (28 minute point in the fast mode) and runs. I swapped controllers, this did not resolve the issue - I assume must have two good controllers. Without error codes, I feel gravitationally pulled in the heater plate replacement direction but would like the assurance of any great ones on this site first.
So I ask, is there anything that should do first, before investing in a part that may or may not fix?
Somewhere in North Georgia, another New Castle consumed.
Posted 18 September 2012 - 05:38 PM
Also, does the unit to continue to run once it "sticks at a point" to return an error code. It looks like if the unit will return an F4 code if the heater plate does not achieve temp after 4 hours. I have never let it run on and on. I guess that means it has to run for 4 hours...
Finally, can resistance be checked with the front panel off - instead of pulling the drawer. From the schematics, it looks like I could figure out which wires once disconnected from the controller..
From a quick look at the schematics, if the controller works - I swapped from the working top drawer, more than likely, one of he componets in the heater plate failed.
Am I headed in the right direction?
Posted 19 September 2012 - 09:29 AM
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man likes this
Posted 19 September 2012 - 11:43 AM
Posted 19 September 2012 - 12:01 PM
? ? ?
.. no heat, ohms are off.
should be between 10 OHMs and less than 40 OHMs
"infinity" is bad
DIYers: Save time and money by learning the secrets of appliance repair... Click Here!
Posted 19 September 2012 - 01:03 PM
Posted 19 September 2012 - 11:40 PM
i can only guess there was something metal under the filter plate
you have found your answer that its the heater plate at fault
Posted 22 September 2012 - 09:54 AM
The heater plate PCB definately had a break in the element, maybe 3/32 of an inch. Obviously circuit was open and not heating. The diagnostic video made this simple to check from the front panel. On the other side, the water side, the metal was pitted and rusting as seen in the pictures. This was exactly opposite the break in the elemnt.
Was the element still passing electricity? The unit had been run no more than 3-4 times since it started "hanging" at the water heating phase. If the Element side of the PCB failed - the dry side, and lost a piece of the element, what would have caused damage, maybe small chip or pit exactly opposite on the water side? Could current continue to energize the entire plate at this point while the unit was running? If so, what a possible shock hazard! Also, the fuse on the heater plate was still good. You would think with this fault, it would have opened too. I guess that I am lucky the controller wasn't damaged.
Regardless, fixed with your help.
RegUS_PatOff, NCARepair, J5, DADoESTX - You guys made this Saturday a heckuva lot better. Thanks. R Rhodes, Mountains of North Georgia
Edited by roryrhodes, 22 September 2012 - 09:59 AM.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users