Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Begin your journey to appliance repair mastery…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
Brew Meister

Maytag MAV8557AWW Still won't spin...

8 posts in this topic

After spending the better part of the last two days reading everything I could find on Maytag washer spins problems, replacing the thrust washer/cam/pulley assembly and still not getting anywhere, I am looking for some expert advice. Here's the usual stats: Washer agitiates fine, but won't spin. Pump is working fine, belt is in good shape. Lid switch is working correctly. Following advice on Appliance Guru I ordered a thrust bearing/pulley/cam replacement kit and assembled it at least 10 times to make sure it was right, but no success. Using just the thin washer under the c-clip as there was no way to get the thick washer in there - even when forcing the shaft out as far as possible it was a tight fit for even the thin washer. Turning the pulley CW, the agitator moves properly. Turning the pulley CCW the agitator moves too but the not the drum! Watching the lower cam when turning the pulley CCW it barely moves off the left stop tab, then turns with the pulley - exerting no force on the thrust bearing. All the while, the drum is locked with the brake engaged. I can force the lower cam CW within the pulley to release the brake and allowing the transmission to turn, but moving it takes a pretty stiff push with a screw driver or pliers. When I release the lower cam it springs back to the left and the drum is locked again. Trying again to turn the pulley CCW, the lower cam just rotates with the pulley as there's no friction or resistance to push the pulley up on to the CAM - everything just spins together in the CCW direction including the agitator. I thought it might be a jammed brake but then I could get the brake to release when I forced the lower cam inside the pulley CW - so now not sure what the issue could be. From what i have read, seems like the agitator shouldn't be turning to CCW with the pulley so that there would be something for the cam to ride up against. Hope that is a good start... Look forward to any help on this!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Did you remove the tub cover and check for foreign objects in between the wash basket and outer tub?

Did you check the motor pivot plate and make sure it's lubricated so the belt has enough tension on it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I didn't check for any objects between the basket and and outer tub becuase once the lower cam is pushed manually to release the brake the drum spins freely. The motor is pivoting and operating normal. The issue is with the cam not engaging with the pulley therefore there's no pressure on the thust bearing. Thanks though for the hints.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slam-dunk, you got you a bad transmission. Anytime on this model if the agitator moves back and forth when turning in the direction for spin you have a bad transmission and the thrust bearing kit isn't going to be of any help in this case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Willie! I was thinking it was headed in that direction, but was holding on to a sliver of hope. I checked the pricing on a replacement transmission and it is running around $275. I am not sure it is worth going forward with it. I suspect that there will be a whole assortment of seals and bushings that need to be replaced with the transmission and that would probably drive the costs even higher. It is too bad, I was really looking forward to getting this thing fixed on my own, but at least I learned alot. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, these machines are definitely not worth replacing a transmission on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there may be a few Whirlpool direct drive top-loaders (no longer made)

at a few sellers...

depending on your area and or delivery charge

let me know..

had been on sale as low as $249 w/ free shipping within the last year ..

now about $ 400 + delivery various sellers

http://appliantology.org/topic/27537-sale-admiral-whirlpool-topload-washer-dryer/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, these machines are definitely not worth replacing a transmission on.

I totally agree with Scott on this, these were never really a good machine to start with.

My opinion, the only time it's worth repairing one of these if the transmission is bad is if it is under full manufactures warranty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites