20 replies to this topic

[richseattle56]

No evap. fan, no condensor fan, no compressor. Any sugestions on where to start diagnosing. When first plugged in you can hear the compressor try to start , that is you hear a buzz, and it stops after a second or 3.
The compressor tests out, no open, no short. The relay also has continuity. as does the overload. I think I remember reading somewhere that the Evap. fan, and the condensor fan does not run until the compressor runs for a few minutes.

thanks

Edited by richseattle56, 05 October 2012 - 07:05 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

http://www.repaircli...rtDetail/945622

 

http://www.repaircli...tDetail/1531075

 

http://www.repaircli...rtDetail/914093

 

[richseattle56]

http://appliantology...ator-diagnosis/

Between J9 and J7 pin 9 I do get 120 Volts,

The compressor trying to start do you think the board is bad?
Also can I check the compessor with a 3in1 isolated outside the unit?

Edited by richseattle56, 05 October 2012 - 07:43 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Between J9 and J7 pin 9 I do get 120 Volts,
... The compressor trying to start do you think the board is bad?
... Also can I check the compessor with a 3in1 isolated outside the unit?

1) that's the Defrost heater
2) not mentioned in first posr
3) should be OK to try
http://appliantology...-w-encoder-sxs/

[richseattle56]

Compressor runs when I hook a 3 in 1 to it. Page 47 of the manual says "

"Check for 120VAC at connector J7-9

orange wire to TERMINAL-J8 black wire.

Do you have 120VAC? --- No--- Replace main board"

I get zero from those two pins.

So I think its the board.

Here are the resistance values of thermistors @ 56 degrees:
FF1 thermistor= 13.37K ohms
FF2 Thermistor= 6.24K ohms
FZ Thermistor= 6.63K ohhms
Evap. Thermistor= 6.47K ohms

Edited by richseattle56, 07 October 2012 - 01:35 PM.

[Cactus Bob]

just be carefil before buying a motherboard

you said it first , the compressor trys to start and then kicks off after 3 seconds , if this is true your motherboard has to be good

this leads me to a bad PTC relay or a bad compressor

then you said the compressor runs ok when connected to a 3&1 , so the compressor must be good

so that leads me back to the PTC relay on the compressor

the PTC relay is a cheep gamble , the motherboard is not

Edited by Cactus Bob, 07 October 2012 - 12:48 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Compressor runs when I hook a 3 in 1 to it. Page 47 of the manual says "

"Check for 120VAC at connector J7-9

orange wire to TERMINAL-J8 black wire.

Do you have 120VAC? --- No--- Replace main board"

I get zero from those two pins.

Compressor wouldn't run if there's 0 voltage at J8 pin 1

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Compressor start relay ==> http://www.repaircli...7X10025/1063791



and overload ==> http://www.repaircli...08X10026/913170

[richseattle56]

The relay and overlaod have continuity. The relay doesnt rattlle when shaken. I do not get 120V AC on any two terminals of the compressor.

Here are the resistance values of thermistors @ 56 degrees:
FF1 thermistor= 13.37K ohms
FF2 Thermistor= 6.24K ohms
FZ Thermistor= 6.63K ohhms
Evap. Thermistor= 6.47K ohms

Also if I put 120V AC to the two terminals on the start device/relay will compressor start if relay is good?

Edited by richseattle56, 07 October 2012 - 02:42 PM.

[Cactus Bob]

yes and no ........if you put one wire on the overload , and one wire on the ptc relay , it will start

never put any wires directly on the compressor

the only time you would put both wires on a start device is in case of a whrilpool type starter , in this case one wire is just wired to the overload inside where you cant see it , so it's all the same anyway

[richseattle56]

Ok put one wire to overload and one wire to ptc relay from 120V AC test cord, compressor came on and ran.

From all of the above, past posts ect. am leaning towards the main board.

Anyone have any imput?

The main board has been replaced at least once. The board that is in the fridge now is a WR55X10942. Which is the sub for the original baoard. The original board was the WRX5510083

Edited by richseattle56, 07 October 2012 - 08:10 PM.

[richseattle56]

Im a little reluctent to replace the board, if I buy it locally I bought it. If I buy it Repair Clinic. I bought it for 3 weeks. HELP

[Scottthewolf]

If you don't want to buy the board, sounds like you want to give up, just like 60 percent of consumers today who just go out and buy new appliances and find out they have more problems with the new appliances.

[NCARepair]

Jump the comp and the l1 terminals for the compressor on the main board,largest connector and see if compressor starts. Main board if it does.

[richseattle56]

Jump the comp and the l1 terminals for the compressor on the main board,largest connector and see if compressor starts. Main board if it does.

Jump what two terminals on which connector? I need your help.

[NCARepair]

With the control board cover off,looking at the board the connector you want will be on the left. It is the largest one of the two and has three wires on it. The connector may be bluish in color. On the board the wires are labeled L1,comp & def. jump the ones with a wire jumper that say L1 & comp should start comp if comp and relay are good. On regs picture of the board above you can see the lettering on the board,it is under the connector.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[jb8103]

Wow, that is good, Samurai. So Rich would jump J8 to J11, correct? If it starts, the board must have a faulty relay?

Edited by jb8103, 09 October 2012 - 11:48 PM.

[NCARepair]

You could also pull the board and check for a blown solder joint. Also jumping J11to J9 will power the defrost heater.

[richseattle56]

^{Jumped Comp. and Line, Compressor ran replaced board all is well.
Thanks to all.}

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 10 October 2012 - 02:59 PM.