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Whirlpool WTW5505SQ1


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75 replies to this topic

#41 fairbank56

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Posted 24 October 2012 - 10:16 AM

If the spin pawl was worn out, it wouldn't go into spin at all. It has nothing to do with setting neutral drain, it's only function is to rotate the spin gear. The spin pawl engages one of three bosses on the underside of the spin gear during spin. The spin gear cam keeps the spin pawl from engaging a ring gear boss during pumpout when neutral drain is set. It takes 10 revolutions of the main drive gear during agitate to set neutral drain. One of the bosses on the underside of the ring gear has a button on it that hits a contact point on the trip lever each revolution during the first few seconds of agitate, which advances the spin gear cam one tooth at a time until the trip lever engages the large cam on the spin gear cam and neutral drain is set. The latch doesn't engage until the start of the pump out cycle. The ring gear, trip lever and spin gear cam are all plastic and if worn, can prevent neutral gain from being set. Here's a pic of the underside of the ring gear showing where the button is.

Eric

Posted Image

Edited by fairbank56, 24 October 2012 - 07:47 PM.


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#42 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 08:09 AM

Think what you want, but have never had to replace the main gear to fix a neutral drain problem.

The only fix I have tried is replacing the complete neutral drain pak kit, (which doesn't include the main spin gear which also comes with a new matching pinion gear), so if the bump on the main gear was the problem replacing the neutral drain pak wouldn't have any effect.

You say it wouldn't spin if the spin pawl was bad but that isn't true. Yes, the spin pawl drives the main gear but to not be able to spin, the spin pawl would have to be physically broken or badly damaged and that isn't what happens to them, (I'm not really sure what the exact wear point is), but I believe it has something to do with the trailing end of the spin pawl that works in conjunction with the latching mechanism.
William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#43 fairbank56

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 09:10 AM

Think what you want,


The spin pawl has nothing to do with the latch or setting neutral drain. If the trailing edge of the spin pawl was worn enough, then it would still engage the spin gear and cause spin during pumpout even though the neutral drain mechanism was set, so yes, a worn spin pawl can cause the OP's problem but not because the neutral drain mechanism isn't set. I put together this picture to make it easier for everyone to see how the neutral drain mechanism works. The images are as though you are looking down on the spin gear showing the parts underneath the spin gear. The spin gear cam mounts to the spin gear hub but freely rotates on the hub. The other parts are on the neutral plate (retainer). You can see in the third image that if the trailing edge of the spin pawl is worn down enough that the pawl could swing out enough to engage the spin gear.

Eric

Posted Image

Edited by fairbank56, 25 October 2012 - 10:37 AM.


#44 fairbank56

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 10:30 AM

Think what you want, but have never had to replace the main gear to fix a neutral drain problem.


The problem here is that you are replacing parts of the neutral drain mechanism that wear but not the other part (spin gear) that also wears from friction with the neutral drain parts. If the spin gear button AND the tip of trip lever that contacts the button are worn to the point that they no longer function, just replacing one of those parts, either the spin gear or trip lever, can fix the problem. Future failure may occur sooner because you didn't replace the spin gear. With the new neutral drain kit, you are also installing a new spin gear cam which has a wear point with the spin gear hub. The spin gear cam rotates around the spin gear hub the whole time the washer is in agitate mode as well as the approx 2 minutes of pumpout (neutral drain).

Eric

#45 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 October 2012 - 04:09 AM

Part link to neutral drain kit ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=WTW5505SQ1

Neutral-Drain-kit-388253-00882046.jpg



#46 fairbank56

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 07:19 PM

The only fix I have tried is replacing the complete neutral drain pak kit, (which doesn't include the main spin gear which also comes with a new matching pinion gear),


Found kit at online parts site that includes the spin gear. Cost was $17.86 including shipping.

Eric

#47 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 05:10 AM

What is part# for a neutral drain kit that includes the spin gear?

The only way I have every seen the spin gear is a matched spin and pinion gear sets and generally costing over $60 for the set.

62570 spin gear only ------------------------------------------ subs to: 285362 Gear & pinion inside gearcase
63320 pinion gear includes ref#25 spin gear ------------- subs to: 285362 ' ' ' '
William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#48 fairbank56

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 08:32 AM

Same number as everywhere else, 388253. I have found 3 web sites that sell the kit with the spin gear. One sells it for $75, one for $29.95 and one for $14.87. I have received a kit for $14.87 and it does have the spin gear. None of them come with the pinion gear.

Eric

#49 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 06:48 AM

I have twelve sites I regularly check for parts, I'm sure one is the same one you found that kit on and it's the only one of the twelve that I use that shows the spin gear coming in that kit and I'm pretty sure P&C sales pretty much only OEM parts so I don't see how they come up with the same part# 388253 which is the standard neutral drain kit with a spin gear included.

Also don't know why Whirlpool would package a spin gear only without the matching pinion in a neutral drain kit when they only sale the spin gear and pinion gear in a supposed matched set.

You say you have physically received the 388253 neutral drain kit and it has the spin gear in the kit, did it come in the red and white packaging with the FSP Whirlpool genuine parts labels?
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#50 fairbank56

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 08:40 AM

You say you have physically received the 388253 neutral drain kit and it has the spin gear in the kit, did it come in the red and white packaging with the FSP Whirlpool genuine parts labels?


Yes, haven't used it yet, here's a pic. Paid $17.86 including shipping thru P&C. I verified via email before ordering that it did in fact include the spin gear.

Eric

Posted Image

Edited by fairbank56, 05 November 2012 - 08:50 AM.


#51 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:25 AM

For sure that is a genuine FSP part. From the date code on the package, (121709 - I believe is 12/17/2009), not current brand new stock, I've ordered these a long time ago in the past and one less than a year ago and never had a new spin gear come with a neutral drain kit. I wonder where they come up with that kit when no one else has it packaged that way????
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#52 pzion

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 12:34 PM

Hello again.

 

I got the FSP parts and removed the gearcase. It's now in a vice and I removed the screws.

 

Any suggestions on how to remove the gasket sealer so I can get the cover off?

 

Thanks.



#53 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 08:09 AM

Use a putty knife and gently tap the handle going all the way around.   It won't take much and it will pop loose.


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#54 certified tech group 51

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 10:49 AM

While you have the cover off, replace the cover seal.............P/N 3349985...............and for your added viewing pleasure,  replace the drive shaft seal..P/N 285352......If any oil leaked out, top off with 30 wt. non-detergent motor oil..........Reseal the cover with  a  RTV sealant....or Form-a-Gasket. ( no pressure in the gearbox if the vent is clear )...This machine should give you years of service except for the occasional broken lid switch.....................................



#55 pzion

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 10:53 PM

Is there an easy way to test to make sure the gearbox is functioning correctly now? I didn't see any damage to the spin pawl or any of the other parts.

 

Also, I got some 85W gearcase oil to replace the oil.



#56 pzion

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 08:40 AM

Actually, it was 80W90 oil.



#57 pzion

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:32 PM

What I mean is - is there a test I can do on the gearbox before I reinstall it in the machine to make sure it's now repaired?



#58 fairbank56

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 04:23 PM

  Take one half of the motor coupler, put a long bolt through it and tighten a nut on the other side, chuck the bolt into your reversible drill and use that to run the gearcase in either direction to test it out.

 

Eric


Edited by fairbank56, 04 February 2013 - 04:24 PM.


#59 pzion

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 09:38 AM

  Take one half of the motor coupler, put a long bolt through it and tighten a nut on the other side, chuck the bolt into your reversible drill and use that to run the gearcase in either direction to test it out.

 

Eric

Thanks.

 

I'm not sure how to get the coupler off of the motor shaft. Don't want to damage it trying.



#60 fairbank56

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:33 PM

  Just pry it off with a couple screwdrivers on each side at the same time. If it's old and brittle, it might break but they are only around $10

 

Eric








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Understanding the Neutral Drain Function in a Whirlpool Direct-Drive Washer Transmission

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 19 October 2012 - 11:50 AM

The neutral drain in the Whirlpool direct-drive washer puts the transmission into neutral while the tub is draining.  The purpose is to save wear and tear on the clutch, drive coupler, and motor.  While it's function and operation are simple and easy to understand, it can still be confusing for folks.  

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