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Fixing an Iced-Up Bottom-Mount Freezer in a Maytag-Whirlpool Refrigerator

refrigerator condensate drain ice whirlpool maytag bottom-mount

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12 replies to this topic

#1 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 07:19 AM

In this exciting hand-to-appliance combat, Samurai Appliance Repair Man shows you how to fix an icing-up problem in the freezer of an Whirlpool-built bottom-mount refrigerator. Topics covered include:


- The two different types of ice found in freezers and what they mean
- Removing the door
- Removing the ice maker and door rail holsters
- Removing the air grill for final access to the condensate drain
- Super Secret Samurai Ice Clearing Techniques!
- Patented Samurai technique for clearing frozen condensate drains
- Make steam power work for you!
- Secret Samurai Trick for re-installing the GITMO-designed upper rack



Here's the link to the steamer I used in the video: http://www.amazon.co...g=mrssamskit-20

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The Appliance Guru provides prompt, convenient service in the following towns in New Hampshire: New London, Elkins, Wilmot, Springfield, Georges Mills, Sunapee, Mt. Sunapee, Newbury, Sutton, Bradford, Warner, Grantham, and the Eastman Community. Visit our website for more info and a discount coupon on your next service call ==> http://applianceguru.com



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#2 kdog

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 04:00 PM

Very Nice ! - The steamer that I use has a 90 degree elbow attachment that can be used to direct the steam down the drain tube. On the unit you are servicing here, one of the real issues with the drain tube is that they have installed a rubber duck bill type of check valve on the outer end (behind the fridge), instead of the customary p-trap kind of design (likely to save space and $$$). The rubber check valves tend to freeze up and cause all sorts of issues - including the one you have addressed.
I believe they have redesigned the check valve, but the ones I have had to deal with, I cut a small "V" in the middle of the valve where the rubber contacts to help prevent this.
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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 04:27 PM

On the unit you are servicing here, one of the real issues with the drain tube is that they have installed a rubber duck bill type of check valve on the outer end (behind the fridge), instead of the customary p-trap kind of design (likely to save space and $$$). The rubber check valves tend to freeze up and cause all sorts of issues - including the one you have addressed.
I believe they have redesigned the check valve, but the ones I have had to deal with, I cut a small "V" in the middle of the valve where the rubber contacts to help prevent this.


This is an outstanding repair tip, kdog! Muy domos!

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 07:14 PM

http://appliantology...r-refrigerator/
.

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"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 09:28 PM

I believe those are the check valves that were causing this very problem and that kdog would cut a V-notch in. Doesn't appear that those have been redesigned to prevent the clogged condensate drain problem. The blog post that you linked to references a problem with rime ice formation on food in the freezer that these grommets were supposed to alleviate-- different problem from the clogged condensate problem, which creates slab ice, as I discussed in the video. Possibly a case of solving one problem and creating another?

#6 kdog

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 10:32 PM

Moron that Roit Ear - http://appliantology...defrost-drains/

Link to Part
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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 07:28 AM

Here's the steamer I use-- I bought mine from Amazon about four months ago for about $60 and it's selling for $15 less now! At that price, I may buy another one just to have it as a backup!


#8 J5

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 06:54 PM

do you guys charge flat rate or callout + time ??

i'm flatrate so when i see a job like that and i ask the customer how long has it been leaking ?

and they say oh only about a month or so :woot:

i say sorry too much ice turn it off and i'll see you in a couple of days

too much ice can cause all sorts of issue of pushed out evaps and you waste so much time and risk of damage
to the evap and plastic parts that its not worth the time and risk when i can get other jobs done in the day

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 07:12 PM

Flat rate. This job goesout at $200 check or charge/ $175 cash (we give a $25 discount if they pay in cash). The steamer makes quick work of ice removal and softens up the plastic so it's not brittle. Took just under an hour to complete the repair.

#10 kdog

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 07:19 PM

From the link, it appears to have an attachment as well for angle blasting.

Or, for big icebergs:

Posted Image
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#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 07:23 PM

Yep, comes with multiple attachments, including a 90 degree angle nozzle. Nice kit and a great price, too!

#12 kdog

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 01:44 AM

The area marked with the arrow - if you install the newly designed duck bill, cutting the v should not be necessary as it is redesigned.

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#13 Tim M

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 07:02 PM

The second duck bill has been replaced with yet another new drain tube see here:

 

 

http://appliantology...t-drain-p-trap/

 

http://appliantology...ck-valve-video/







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: refrigerator, condensate drain, ice, whirlpool, maytag, bottom-mount

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