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Another GE refrigerator problem


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Tailrr

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 03:09 PM

I know this is a common problem, but I searched and could not find an answer.  Here's what I've got:  GE GSS22WGMD.  The compressor and condensor fan run.  The evaporator gets nice and cold but the evaporator fan will not come on.  The fan tests OK but will not run.  The evaporator temp sensor seems OK (the resistance varries with temp, but I don't know the proper specs).  The defrost heater looks dark, but has continuity.  The connectors on the heater look pretty dark.  The defrost thermostat seems like it might be the culprit.  It has continuity when cold AND when warm.  Is this correct?  I don't think so.  Would this cause the evaporator fan not to run? 

I really don't want to have to buy a new fridge, but I've about had it with this thing. 

Thanks in advance for your help. 


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#2 Ron

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 03:34 PM

I believe on the model you have there that bi-metal (defrost thermostat) remains closed and opens only at 140.  Your evap motor is DC voltage.  Since you did not mention anything about a frost-up on the evap,  I assume your defrost is working ok. You can test this by accessing the board on the back side of this refer.  At this point I would think it's the evap motor itself....Ron

#3 The Seven

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 04:00 AM

[user=549]Tailrr[/user] wrote:

The evaporator temp sensor seems OK .
The defrost heater looks dark, but has continuity.
The "defrost thermostat" seems like it might be the culprit.  It has continuity when cold AND when warm.  

In this GE, "evaporator temp sensor" is used in place of conventional defrost thermostat.
The "defrost thermostat" you mentioned should be called "defrost thermo-fuse" which will cut-off the heater supply if the temp is above 140 deg F. The "defrost thermo-fuse" seems OK.

The fan tests OK but will not run.
Would this cause the evaporator fan not to run? 

If the fan winding is electrically test OK and is mechanically free to run, then there is "no voltage supply to this fan".
The remain cause could be:
a) "fresh food temp sensor" is bad; or
b) "electronic control board" is bad.
The Seven

#4 Fixum

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 08:55 AM

this machine controls the voltage to the defrost circut from the mother board  in the rear of the machine, behind the silver panel, if the evap fan motor is not running then you either have a bad fan motor, or a bad board,  Factory tech support will tell you that if you find that the motor is bad, you need to change bothe the mother board and the fan motor since when the motor fails it most often takes a resistor for the fan motor out also, and speaking of resistors this motor  and the condenser fan motor are variable speed motors,  about bet you need to replace both for a proper fix:banana:
Fix On

#5 Tailrr

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 03:09 PM

Ron, Seven and Fixum,

 

Thanks for the input.  The motor has been replaced with a new one.  Relatively cheap, and I was hoping for a quick and easy fix.  I was really hoping not to have to replace the mother board. 

Where is the fresh food temp sensor and how can it be checked?  Is it near the damper?  I can't seem to find it. 

That's great to know that you're supposed to replace the board and the evap fan at the same time.

Yea GE!!!!

Stephen


#6 Tailrr

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 03:36 PM

OK, fresh food temp sensor seems to be OK.  It has a resistance of 5 (warm) to 12 (cold) kOhms.  The damper door was open when the refrigerator was turned off (warm). 

What readings can I look for at the evap fan connector?  I know the red wire is 13v+ constant.  I am assuming the white wire is ground.  What should I see on the blue and yellow wires?  I just want to make sure the mother board is bad before I replace it too.

Thanks,

Stephen





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