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Looking for some help with a GE WJRE5550K2WW Washing Machine...


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9 replies to this topic

#1 b00st3d

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 08:24 AM

All of a sudden, our washing machine stopped draining. Im hoping it's something as simple as a clog, but I am unsure as to how to take this thing a part and what to look for! Does anyone have a service manual available or any tips?!

Thanks!

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#2 fairbank56

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 08:44 AM

To open front panel, push a putty knife into the top groove of front panel in line with the lid opening on each side. Pull slightly on the front panel on each side as you push the knife into the release clips. Pull top of front panel out a little and then lift off. The drain pump is at the lower right side. You should have 120VAC on the two terminals during pumpout. You should read about 12 ohms resistance across the terminals when unplugged. If clogged, you can take it apart for inspection/cleaning. Could also be the lid switch. This model has a double pole lid switch. Check for proper operation.

Eric

Edited by fairbank56, 21 October 2012 - 09:10 AM.


#3 b00st3d

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 09:46 AM

thanks, i got the front panel off and got access to the pump. whats the best way to test for voltage during pumpout? should i set the cycle to spin/drain and immediately i should get 120vac at the harness? if i get 12 ohms at the pump, is there any other way to test to see if the pump is good? i was able to stick my finger in the pump and move the prop inside, but it did not spin freely. i had to push on the prop a bit and then it would make one cyle and then i had to push again on it and it would make another cycle...almost like it had compression like a car motor.

as far as the lid switch, it seems to be fine as the machine knows when i open and close the lid. if i open the lid while it is spinning, the spin immediately comes to a halt.

#4 b00st3d

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 10:00 AM

also tested resistance at the terminals at the pump and my multimeter was floating between 14.9 and 15.3ohms when testing...are these values a sign of a bad pump?

thanks.

Edited by b00st3d, 21 October 2012 - 10:55 AM.


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 03:56 PM

should i set the cycle to spin/drain and immediately i should get 120vac at the harness?


Yes

i had to push on the prop a bit and then it would make one cyle and then i had to push again on it and it would make another cycle...almost like it had compression like a car motor.


Normal operation, those are the magnetic poles.

as far as the lid switch, it seems to be fine as the machine knows when i open and close the lid. if i open the lid while it is spinning, the spin immediately comes to a halt.


Test the voltage to the pump and described previously. If no voltage, then replace the lid switch ==> http://www.repaircli...er=WJRE5550K2WW

Posted Image

If you have voltage to the pump but no pumping, then there's either a clog in the drain hose or the pump is bad ==> http://www.repaircli...er=WJRE5550K2WW

Posted Image

#6 b00st3d

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 05:53 PM

Getting 120 at the harness, and there are no blockages in the tub drain hose or the hose that leads to our drain itself. The pump is showing a resistance of 14.9-15.3 so im guessing the pump is bad. Im going to put an order in for one, so hopefully that fixes the problem. Thanks everyone for the assistance.

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 October 2012 - 08:24 PM

Getting 120 at the harness,

... with the Pump connected, and it's not running ?
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#8 b00st3d

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 06:06 AM

... with the Pump connected, and it's not running ?


No, with the pump disconnected and the washer on the spin cycle, I got 120v at the harness that plugs into the pump.

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 October 2012 - 06:11 AM

No, with the pump disconnected and the washer on the spin cycle, I got 120v at the harness that plugs into the pump.


Testing it this way only tells you half the story: that the pump is getting voltage. The other half of the story is even more important: does the pump actually run when it's getting voltage. That's why you do voltage measurements under load, i.e., with the component of interest connected. Sometimes, if there's a question about the supply voltage, you may test with and without load to see if the voltage changes significantly. But in this case, you're really trying to answer this question: Does the frikkin pump when it gets 120vac? And you can't answer that question with the pump disconnected from the power supply.

#10 b00st3d

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:53 AM

forgot to post back on this...replacing the pump worked.






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