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maytag legacy no spin and drain

model mtw5570tq0

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14 replies to this topic

#1 Nicky

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 11:48 AM

Maytag washer model mtw5570tq0 fills agitates and when it comes to drain cycle machine just humms or buzzes. I checked out pump and it spins freely and even disconnected it from motor. While at rest the motor shaft spins freely both directions and drive coupling looks good. When calling for drain and spin the machine is pulling 25 amps. Dont think it is obstruction between inner and outer drum, it has very small opening up top. Thanks for any input

Edited by Nicky, 27 October 2012 - 11:49 AM.


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#2 jb8103

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 01:29 PM

It's a Whirlpool direct drive. 25 amps sounds like locked rotor amps (though I haven't double-checked) meaning the motor cannot start itself in reverse. This is different from stalled by obstruction.

Can you test the capacitor?

Can you put power to the motor in spin with pump disconnected?

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Edited by jb8103, 27 October 2012 - 01:47 PM.

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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 01:40 PM

Can you put power to the motor in spin with pump disconnected?


This is the key test. I'm betting on a bad pump:

Drain Pump

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#4 Scottthewolf

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Posted 27 October 2012 - 02:36 PM

Try taking the motor off the gearcase and water pump and set the machine on a spin cycle. Put your foot on the motor but away from the wires in case it jumps when it starts.

Could be a locked up basket drive.

Could be a locked up clutch.

Could be a bad timer
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#5 jb8103

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 08:41 AM

Try taking the motor off the gearcase and water pump and set the machine on a spin cycle. Put your foot on the motor but away from the wires in case it jumps when it starts.

Could be a locked up basket drive.

Could be a locked up clutch.

Could be a bad timer


We gotta take a stroll down No Drain Lane and call on each of these goblins.

Often as not the OP disappears and we never do learn what his problem was. Sure would help.
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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 03:17 PM

Often as not the OP disappears and we never do learn what his problem was. Sure would help.


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#7 Nicky

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 03:28 PM

The first thing i did was disconnect the pump. pump spins freely and tried motor with pump disconnected. If its a bad timer wouldnt there be more of a chance of it just not getting power? is it possible to be a bad timer and be pulling 25 amps? Tested the amp pull from the whole machine, not just the motor. Should the motor spin freely in both directions with no power going to it, if it was a locked tranny or brake? The funny thing is it is just an immediate buzz without the drum even attempting to turn. I almost always figure stuff out but it takes me longer than you seasoned pros. I was trying to avoid spending too much more time on this. So does this motor have a starter/capacitor? I know on hvac i carry test caps to test for bad ones and then replace accordingly. Not sure how to test capacitor. Never got into dropping the motor just removed the pump. I have bypassed units in the past to have them go into spin when it should be the wash cycle but really dont want to go there if possible. thanks

#8 fairbank56

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 04:09 PM

With the pump off, (tie it out of the way), after agitate when it switches to drain, try spinning that motor shaft clockwise to see if you can get it started. The start winding gets its power through the timer and the timer uses different contacts for drain and spin mode than it does for agitate. The polarity to the start winding is reversed via the timer for drain and spin.

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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 07:23 PM

... in other words,
the Motor has a Start winding and a Run winding.
Both must be powered for the Motor to "run", otherwise it may draw the 25 amps you're seeing.
The Motor runs in one direction for Agitate, and the other direction for Spin.
The Timer has a set of Contacts for the Run winding (Hi or Lo),
and (2) sets of Contacts (determines direction) for the Start winding.
If the Motor is not getting the correct power to both windings, it won't run.
Wiring Sheet - W10113764.pdf
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#10 jb8103

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 07:53 PM

Sometimes I miss the wigwag.
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#11 jb8103

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 07:57 PM

So does this motor have a starter/capacitor?


Yes it does. I'm told on the very earliest DD washers it was up behind the control panel (what were they smokin'?) but I've never seen that. It should otherwise be strapped to the side of the motor.

I know on hvac i carry test caps to test for bad ones and then replace accordingly. Not sure how to test capacitor.


You need a meter with that capability. I personally recommend the Fluke 902.
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#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 October 2012 - 08:04 PM

If the Capacitor was bad, I don't think the Motor would run for Agitate.
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#13 Nicky

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 12:03 AM

ok guys thanks. this is what i wanted to know. Good to know if capacitor was bad the motor probably wouldnt go either direction. ill see if i can take another look at it.

#14 jb8103

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 04:46 AM

If the Capacitor was bad, I don't think the Motor would run for Agitate.


I have the same opinion of capacitors as I do of politicians; this is a restart after things get a bit warm; it is easy for me to check so I always do. Probability near zero, I know.
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#15 kdog

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 02:57 PM

I have seen these capacitors fail in this way before
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