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waitsfan

LG WM3455HW, drain pump questions

7 posts in this topic

OK, so I've been perusing this site all weekend, and decided that the OE error on my washing machine must be the drain pump. The filter is completely clear, as is the drain hose.

I didn't have a multi-meter at home, so I went ahead and ordered the new pump (through this site), figuring that had to be the problem. I brought the pump to work with me this morning (where I do have a multi-meter) and checked the resistance on the pump.

It is 14 ohms. The resistance on the circulating pump is 23.7.

Please tell me that the pump is bad?! From what I've read, resistance between 10 and 30 ohms indicates the pump is fine.

I really want it to be the pump.

The serial number on my machine is:

004KWAT00256

it seems too early for my drain pump to be faulty.

help?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Something can test good on ohms and still be bad. If the drain pump is getting 120vac during the pump out cycle, then there's either a clog in the suction or discharge hose or the pump itself is bad-- usually it's a bad pump.

Pump part link ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/4681EA2001T/2003273?modelNumber=WM3455HW

Drain-Pump-4681EA2001T-01367897.jpg

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"Something can test good on ohms and still be bad. If the drain pump is getting 120vac during the pump out cycle, then there's either a clog in the suction or discharge hose or the pump itself is bad-- usually it's a bad pump. "

Would you mind giving me a quick run-through on how to see if the pump is getting 120vac during the pump out cycle? I'll put in the new pump when I get it, and if that doesn't fix the problem, I'll need to do some further testing. I'm really (REALLY) hoping it is the pump!

btw....Kirin? really?

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Thanks, by the way. This site seems to be a lifesaver!

Kristin

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You would need to test the voltage at the Pump while it should be running...

Usually, if the Pump is making noise or trying to run, the voltage is OK.

Then you would need to determine if it is actually running or jammed,

OR if there's a clog in the drain lines.

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I have the entire pump housing in my hand right now. I've checked out the impellers on both pumps. They both move freely and there is nothing in the housing. I also removed the drain hose yesterday to see if there was a clog there, but, alas, there was not.

When it was still hooked up, I could hear the pump working (or trying to, at least), some water made it out the drain hose. When I had to manually drain it, using the little black tube by the filter, I would set the machine on drain and spin, and drain the machine with the black tube. The flow was strong at times, sometimes pulsating, and weak other times. The times it was weak, I'm guessing that the pump had stopped and the water was just flowing "downhill".

I bought this machine in 2010....and the serial number is 004KWAT00256. Does this indicate that the machine was manufactured in 2010? Seems pretty early for a pump to fail.

Oh well, I'm really hoping that it is the pump and that I can get back to washing clothes at my house instead of my friend's house!

I really like this site, by the way!!

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Happily, it WAS the pump. The resistance on both pumps was just over 14 ohms...but the impeller felt a bit weaker on the old pump. It didn't have as much physical resistance when I turned it.

I've only run a couple of loads so far, but they both finished all cycles perfectly!

Thank you so much for your help!

Cheers, Kristin

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