10 replies to this topic

[bdweller]

All, this weekend, I'm going to fix my mother's Whirlpool dryer. The model number is TEDL.660LING, serial number is MB3615626.

The dryer was purchased in the early 90's and as of last week, there is no hot air coming out. I assume that it is the coil that needs to be replaced. I will be driving a long way to fix it, so I want to have all options accounted for. Is there anything else I should bring, parts wise, that may end up being the problem?

Also, with this older dryer, is there any trick to getting the thing taken apart?

Thanks much, BD Weller

[RegUS_PatOff]

... TEDL.660LING

maybe
TEDL660WW0 ?

Heater Element may be able to be accessed from the rear of the Dryer, Heater Cover
http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=3367

 

[bdweller]

First of all, apparently, there is an issue with the model # (TEDL.660LING). I called my Mother (it's at her house), and she swears that this is the model # she's reading. Not sure where to go from here. I guess I'll just have to drive out there, take it apart, and get the model number from the actual part.

Second: I've read where it could be the thermal fuse that's causing the problem. How do you tell if it's the coil or the fuse?

Thanks again, BD Weller

Whoa, just clicked on the coil image and saw how to test the coil. I'll do the same with the fuse.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I've read where it could be the thermal fuse that's causing the problem.

depending on model number,
If the White Thermal Fuse was bad, the Dryer Drum wouldn't tumble
If one of the other Thermal Fuses was bad, OR a bad Heater Element it would tumble, but not heat
http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2986

 

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2821

 

[bdweller]

After testing the dryer's coil and two fuses, only one of the sensors (the one on the right pictured in the previous post) was failing.  So, I ordered it.  I got both of the sensors pictured above, but only replaced the one on the right.  I put some towels in for about two minutes.  They were warm.  However, the dryer stopped working within a day.  I tested the new sensor for continuity and it failed.  I assume I got a bad sensor, but could there be another issue?  Should I have replaced both sensors I received?  Is some other area causing the sensor to "burn out?" 

 

Thanks for your insight, BD Weller

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

You replace both at the same time, that's why they're sold as a kit.  Back to RepairClinic you go ==> http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2821

[RegUS_PatOff]

... the dryer stopped working within a day. 

... I tested the new sensor for continuity and it failed.

how's the Vent ?

Dryer Vent
Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

 

[sh2sh2]

also check the element for shorts to ground

[bdweller]

Why does it matter if I replace only one sensor of the two?  The one that was in there was working (tested positively for continuity)?  I'm going to replace the both, but am curious at this point.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Why does it matter if I replace only one sensor of the two?

Cumulative damage creating an incipient failure condition.

[RegUS_PatOff]

 (tested positively for continuity)?  I'm going to replace the both, but am curious at this point.

may not "open" when it should, causing over-heat and blowing the other sensor