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Kenmore Series 90 110.C28902790 LOUD noise - transmission kaput?

Kenmore Series 90 transmission loud noise

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16 replies to this topic

#1 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 08:50 AM

Venerable Kenmore Series 90 makes noises approximating a 747 taking off through a flock of geese. Water fills, water empties. No agitation. When it last spun, there was no bearing/clutch noise. Now it just sits and grinds(?). Coupling is fine. Transmission? Bearing? Clutch? I've uploaded a video, featuring the noise. Thought it might help to give it a look and listen.

Thank you for any advice. I am moderately capable of do-it-myself repairs. Hope this is something fixable.

Cheers,

AuroraGuy

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:47 AM

Does it Spin OK ?
sounds like a bad Coupler
Can you turn the Agitator either way while it's running or not running ?
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#3 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:47 AM

Bad motor to gearcase drive coupling. See video to check and replace.

Eric

#4 jumptrout

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 11:45 AM

Yup. Bad drive coupling.

#5 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 01:06 PM

Thanks for the input.

Checked coupling before I made the video and it looked fine. Replaced it anyway. Does not spin or agitate. Pumps water fine.

Makes a metallic "grinding" sound when trying to agitate or spin.

Other suggestions?

Thanks again.

I should add I can turn the agitator clockwise while it is trying to run. Cannot turn it counter-clockwise.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 01:36 PM

... I can turn the agitator clockwise while it is trying to run. Cannot turn it counter-clockwise.

during that time, does the Washer Motor help or hinder to turn the Agitator ?
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#7 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 01:43 PM

Thank you Grand Master Funk.

During wash cycle, agitator can be turned by hand effortlessly clockwise. Can't move it counter-close wise a millimetre.

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:13 PM

and you've replaced this Coupler ?
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1195967

 

Motor-Coupling-285753A-01029882.jpg


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#9 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 04:54 PM

Pull the motor off again. Can you turn the gearcase input shaft by hand? In each direction? If so, when you turn it clockwise, does the clutch hub turn? The clutch hub is directly above the gearcase. Here's a pic.

Eric

Posted Image

#10 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:03 PM

Can turn the gear case input shaft about one revolution counter-clockwise or clockwise before it jams. Clutch Hub does not turn at all.

Gear case kaput?

Really appreciate your help.

C.

#11 kdog

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:14 PM

Run with cabinet off and get a visual, if you can verify that the transmission side of the coupler is actually turning (have been known to split during installation) then you are in for a tranny, but fear not - quite a simple job.

http://www.repaircli...er=110.28902790

 

 (w/video):

Agitator-Repair-Kit-285811-00841524.jpg


http://www.repaircli...ion/3360629/423

 


Transmission-3360629-00634726.jpg


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#12 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:23 PM

For the record, here's a pic of the coupling I replaced. This one had been in for about 18 months. Looks a little worn. I replaced it with a brand new one.

Attached Files



#13 AuroraGuy

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 09:37 PM

I'll try to run it with the cabinet off.

If it needs a new transmission ($200), the question will be whether it's worth in for a 10-year-old washing machine. I'm leaning toward "yes."

#14 fairbank56

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 10:04 PM

Just pull the gearcase and then try turning the input shaft. When separated from the spin tube and agitator, there's nothing external to stop it from working. If it won't turn with the gearcase out of the machine, it's the gearcase. If it still won't turn, you might as well open it up for inspection. It's possible that one of the plastic pieces of the neutral drain mechanism (spin pawl or trip lever) has broken off and is jamming the gears. A neutral drain kit is a lot cheaper than a new gearcase.

When you go to remove your agitator, with the 90 series, you might find that there is no bolt directly under the agitator cap. If you see a plastic piece with a square hole in it, use a 1/2" socket extension into that hole and turn CCW to release. Then you can remove the top half of the agitator to get to the bolt for the bottom half.

If you do end up opening the gearcase, set it up securely and make it level so the oil doesn't spill out when you take the cover off.

Eric

#15 AuroraGuy

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 08:42 AM

Gentlemen, thank you for your advice. I will do this tonight and report back.

Cheers!

#16 AuroraGuy

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:24 AM

Greetings,

I have removed the gear case and opened it for inspection. Am searching this website for instructions/video on rebuilding/repairing it. Will drain the oil and clean while searching...

#17 AuroraGuy

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 11:01 AM

Success! Opted for a rebuilt ($109 cdn. with trade in) transmission. Easy to replace, once the diagnosis was made. Thank you for your help in that!

Was thinking of overhauling the gearcase myself, but did not have the time and was uncertain I could quickly get the parts.

Cheers!





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