2 replies to this topic

[mrjtwright]

Some genius removed the model number label from the fridge but it's a Whirlpool Conquest SBS with the ice bin on the door. I had to replace the emitters for the ice maker and it worked great for a couple of weeks. Then the customer called and said that there is excessive ice everywhere in the fridge like there was a major leak. They turned it off and when I got to view it the ice maker tray was empty. I turned it on and it went though it's cycle but did not fill with water. My hunch is, the inlet valve was leaking and the fill tube froze up (although I couldn't detect any ice in the vertical portion of the tube that is exposed). My attempt at testing the valve was to jumper the black wire to brown on the harness in the freezer with the ice maker removed. I was only receiving 55V at the valve. If I remember correctly, the coil had a low resistance (like 4 ohms). What resistance should it be? Should my jumper method supply 110V to the solenoid?

Thanks in advance

Edited by mrjtwright, 13 November 2012 - 10:14 AM.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

4 ohms is too low, maybe a measurement error. 40 or 400 ohms, even 4K ohms on some valves, would be more like it.

The valve won't open with 55 vac. Do the cheater cord test. If the valve opens and squirts water up top, then the ice maker may be failing to cycle. Do the T-H jumper test.

Some videos for your instruction and edumucation:







Replacement ice maker part link ==> http://www.repaircli...ly/4317943/1857

[kdog]

Some genius removed the model number label from the fridge

It was likely scrapped