13 replies to this topic

[bogreen]

This unit has the motor running continuously throughout the cycle. No water.

No power to the water inlet valve
No power to the float switch
No power to the drain solenoid anywhere on the timer.

I changed the timer.

Everything remained the same. No water.

Bruce

[kdog]

Sounds like you got chew a bad timer - the drain solenoid detents are hard to find though, only energized for 20 seconds. Pretty much gotta let the timer advance on it's own and sit on the floor watching. Did you ohm out the wire between the timer and the float switch ?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I agree with kdog-- not much to this one. Did you replace the timer with a new one?

Check the timer motor continuity. Also see if you're getting 120vac to the timer motor during the cycle.

[bogreen]

Brand new timer.

Unit is acting exactly the same as with the original timer.

No power to the water valve or the drain solenoid.

No power to the float switch or from the switch.

What are the chances that a new timer would perform exactly the same as the old one.

I smells something else wrong that's stopping the power to the water valve.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Bruce

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

May have a broken wire in the door. Check the voltage right at the timer pin that connects to the wire that supplies the water inlet valve. If you get voltage there, then there's a broken wire between the timer and the float switch.

[Chat_in_FL]

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host might be onto something -- This model was recalled for "Liquid rinse-aid could potentially leak to the in inside of the dishwaher and cause the insultaion on the wiring to break down... The recall involves dishwashers manufactred bewteen September 1997 and December 2001." I'd be checking the wire harness inside the door...

Edited by Chat_in_RI, 14 November 2012 - 07:05 PM.

[bogreen]

Thank you all so far,

I went back today to look again.

I ohmed the pink wire from the timer connector to the float switch and it had continuity.

I took the two wire connector off the motor and put it on the water inlet valve and there came water, and the
drain solenoid had power and drained the machine.

Then I hooked my meter to the timer connector pink wire which supplies the water valve and to ground and there
was no power coming off the timer anywhere on the dial. (I turned it all the way around).

I told the customer, if I hadn't been here before, ha ha, I'd say you need a new timer.

It sure is looking like my new timer is bad.

Bruce

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

It sure is looking like my new timer is bad.

Exceedingly rare with these simple timers but seems to be a posseepooplay, as they say in Quebecwa-muddafukka.

[kdog]

Oui !

Sacre' Bleau !

[Scottthewolf]

I've also seen the pumps on these leak so bad, they keep the drain valve open because it rusts and freezes the drain valve in the open position.

[bogreen]

Ok, I changed the timer again. Still the same. No power to the inlet valve.

 

I jiggled the wires in the door and here comes the water.

 

So, now I have a bad wire somewhere on the harness.

 

The unit worked a couple of times for the customer, but yesterday she called and it is doing

the same again.

 

Anybody have the wiring diagram for this machine??

 

And how would you go about isolating "THE" bad wire??

 

Thanks,

Bruce

[kdog]

Must be the feed wire to the float switch/valve that's the issue - inspect it carefully and splice in a replacement if necessary - assuming water fill is all that is effected

[bogreen]

I would agree, so I checked voltage at the timer connector. The wire feeding the water valve had no voltage coming off the timer.

That's why I suspected the timer as the problem.

 

It seems to be a wire that feeds the timer and then throws power over to the water fill valve.

 

Does that make sense?

 

A schematic would definitely help.

[kdog]

This One  should be close enough, nothing else there, just the valve, gloat switch and 2 timer contacts