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33 replies to this topic

#21 torchkeeper

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 05:36 PM

hot surface ignitor glows for 17 seconds then 24 volts to valve opening . flame comes on,  voltage stays on 5 seconds . Voltage stops, cycle starts again till lock out. I have 11 " wc. inlet pressure



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#22 torchkeeper

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 05:43 PM

hsi glows for 17 seconds,then 24volts for 5 seconds valve opens flame lights voltage stops and furnace goes thru cycle again till lockout. I have 11 " wc at inlet.



#23 jumptrout

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 06:41 PM

Well. Lets start the crap shoot.

Replace the flame sensor wire and the pressure switch.

They are the only 2 other components providing low voltage to the board.



#24 kdog

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 12:48 AM

Is it possible the flame sensor is not sitting in the flame properly ?   thereby not actually conducting a proving voltage


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#25 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 09:00 AM

hsi glows for 17 seconds,then 24volts for 5 seconds valve opens flame lights voltage stops and furnace goes thru cycle again till lockout. I have 11 " wc at inlet.

Sounds like a problem with the valve delaying it's opening after getting its 24 volts to open.  The 5-6 second flame proving time is not seeing a flame because the valve hasn't opened for the first 5 seconds that valve has been receiving its 24 volts.


William Burk (Willie)
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Eureka, CA 95501

#26 jumptrout

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 06:09 PM

BAR might be on to something here.

Once the glow bar starts to turn red,lightly and repeatedly tap on the gas valve to see if it lights sooner and proves flame.



#27 Bullstok

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 06:55 PM

Well. Lets start the crap shoot.

 

its not so much a crap shoot. the resistance of flame sensor wire can be tested. if the pressure switch is dropping out when the gas valve opens, the pressure switch can be monitored by hooking a volt meter on both pressure switch terminals after the switch initially closes and see if the meter ever reads voltage (open switch) while the gas valve is in play. (set your meter on voltage and to min/max).

 

problem remains: gas valve not opening on time or not staying open long enough. the only question needing answered is whether or not the problem is the gas valve itself or a component involved in sending voltage to it.

 

it would still be nice to have the amp draw and coil resistance of the gas valve.



#28 torchkeeper

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:37 AM

larger winding reads  27.0  ohms  smaller winding reads 44,4 ohms  lead from flame sensor reads .2 ohms disconnected from sensor rod. Now not even getting any ignition at all. hsi still glows and 25 volts to valve. Ordered new valve. Of course present valve is obsolete. Honeywell gave me two diffeerent replacement numbers. Nordyne gave me a different honeywell number altogether. I ordered the one nordyne suggested. Will let you know when it gets here. Stay tuned !!



#29 torchkeeper

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 03:35 PM

New valve installed ,24 volts to valve no flame at all. Diagnostic on board still only admits to soft lockout. Guys how do I check pressure switch? And what is relationship to burner box, vent on gas valve and the pressure switch. As they are all connected by the vac or positive pressure lines. Is it positive or vac. in those hoses? What voltage and when should I have voltage on the 2 terminals on pressure switch. I had to convvert new gas valve to LP. Kit was included, I set it to same amount of turns as old valve was set at. Hoped I could dail it in from there if we ever get it to light. Can we bypass pressure switch ot diagnose ?



#30 Daveb1972

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 05:45 PM

If you email me a number I can call you between calls to help you diagnose this the rest of the way. Use ddb28@nycap.rr.com subject line should be this forum name. I'm on call all this evening, or I can talk to u Monday afternoon.

You can also friend request on FB and I'm me.
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#31 jumptrout

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 08:56 PM

The pressure switch is negative pressure(vacuum).If the ignitor glows,the pressure switch is working.

With all the parts you have replaced,I would be looking for a faulty wire.

Using the wiring diagram,check every wire for continuity,ohms and integrity.

Ohms should be virtually the same on all wires.

Double check the diagram for wire location.

I found a furnace this week with a wire in the wrong location causing similar problems.

Check the tightness of the wire terminals,if any are loose,use your pliers to carefully squeeze the terminals tighter.



#32 torchkeeper

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 04:30 PM

Alright, The verdict is in: No hardware problems. The crossovers in inshot burners had surface corrosion blocking the 2nd burner from catching flame. Lighting from bottom burner by hand at moment of hsi ignition of top burner lit the 3 lower burners and then would confirm flame as per sensor rod. Removed and bead blasted burners. All is fine except she started to short-cycle. Condensate was not comming out of header box fast enough. Daveb 1972 held my hand through all this and was even good enough to call me to help !!  He suggested adding a couple degrees pitch to furnace case to help drainage. It is originally a updraft unit so the condensate needed field made drainage.  That was all it needed. Corroded crossovers and too little pitch was all that was wrong. No parts needed. Cannot say thank you too all who stayed with me on this. And a shoutout to Dave. All really caused by furnace being in a damp crawlspace.

Thank you guys !!



#33 jumptrout

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 05:15 PM

Furnace goes through cycle all the way to firing . Only fires for 1-2 seconds then shuts gas valve

I mistook your statement as firing completely across.

Apparently only your first burner was firing.



#34 jb8103

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:46 PM

Most of these, you just gotta have eyeballs on it. I don't think you would have missed that, Jumptrout, and would have our man fixed up in fifteen minutes.

 

It does pay to call in a pro.


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