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LG Washing Machine won't turn on unless I unplug and replug in to 'reset'


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13 replies to this topic

#1 tchristensen

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 08:48 PM


I have a 2 year old LG washing machine, WM2801HRA. It is not starting up when pushing the power button (as if it has no power) but the interior light is illuminated. I can get it to work if I unplug the machine wait a few seconds and plug it back in. It will start as normal. However, after every load of laundry the washer will be 'dead' (as if no power) again. If I unplug the machine, it will start back up and I am able to do one load. Also, the interior light stays on and will not go off when the machine is 'dead'.

I have read a little online and some have suggested it is the circuit board or the noise filter. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for your time.


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#2 john63

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 09:16 PM

<<<It is not starting up when pushing the power button (as if it has no power) but the interior light is illuminated.>>>

************************

Are the CONTROL PANEL lights on as well?
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 tchristensen

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 09:57 PM

No, only the interior illumination light is on. Nothing lights up or powers up when I push the power button. However, after I unplug and plug back in the control panel lights come back on and I can use the control panel to select my wash cycle.
Thanks for your help!
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#4 john63

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 10:10 PM

Try the following---when the washer will not "wake-up"...

1) Press the START button at each corner (north/south/east/west). If the washer CONTROL PANEL "wakes-up" reliably at any position---check the START button. Does it look crooked/out-of-position compared to the POWER button?
If so---replace the CONTROL PANEL COVER.

2) If the START button looks normal---replace the DISPLAY BOARD Part number: EBR61020701

Part number: EBR61020701



3) Tap/bang on the washer at the top/left/rear corner (without damaging the sheetmetal or paint finish).
If the CONTROL PANEL "wakes-up"---replace the MAIN BOARD (sticking Power Relay) Part number: AP4999213

Part number: AP4999213


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 tchristensen

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Posted 19 November 2012 - 10:22 PM

Thanks! I have a load of laundry in now, I will try this tomorrow morning and report back.
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#6 sh2sh2

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 07:28 PM

i find this problem is often times the main board, on both lg and kenmore/lg's

#7 kdog

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 07:54 PM


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#8 tchristensen

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 10:35 PM

Update: I always run the washer on the 'speed wash', because I don't like waiting over an hour for a load of laundry. Last night I tried the perm press and the washer did not 'shut down' after the cycle. Tonight when I got home, the washer was still working. We are getting ready to go on vacation and are doing quite a bit of laundry, all on normal and perm press and the washer seems to be working fine this evening. I will try running another 'speed wash' when I get back from vacation, to see what happens. So far it appears that the washer only 'shuts down' after 'speed washing'.

Thanks for all your help. When I get back next week, I will run a few trials with the washer and if it 'shuts down' again I will try the suggestions above and report back.
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#9 john63

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 10:58 PM

<<< I always run the washer on the 'speed wash', because I don't like waiting over an hour for a load of laundry.>>>

*************************

I've lost count---how many times that a customer has described that symptom to me.

If an LG washer takes "more an an hour of run time" during a NORMAL WASH cycle---this is usually caused by too much laundry detergent (or the incorrect type).

If more than the following amount of detergent is used...

******************************************************************************************************************

HE (regular strength) : (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X (double concentrated): (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon

********************************************************************************************************************

...during the RINSE portion of the cycle (about 36 minutes remaining)---the MAIN BOARD will detect the presence of suds.

At which point the COUNTDOWN DISPLAY CLOCK will ***stall*** at "36 minutes".

The MAIN BOARD then activates a hidden software program called:"SUDS KILL MODE".

Suds Kill is a software program that will attempt to reduce the amount of suds in the washer (usually cannot achieve success).

Whenever Suds Kill becomes "enabled"-----a 51 minute NORMAL cycle will end up taking about 120 minutes to complete the cycle.

**********************************

<<<When I get back next week, I will run a few trials with the washer and if it 'shuts down' again I will try the suggestions above and report back.>>>


**********************************


Sounds good :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:49 AM

That video was INSANE, kdog! Watched it with my sons and we were cracking up. Good find!

#11 kdog

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:33 PM

Heh Heh Heh ............... ;)

The squeak toy was made in Korea

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#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:44 PM

That video was INSANE, kdog! Watched it with my sons and we were cracking up.

someone has too much time on their hands ...
I gotta watch that again... :whistling:

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#13 Tim Sturg

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 12:28 AM

Tchristensen, what was the fix on this? I have 1 with a similar issue & put a board in, but now the display is acting weird. I'm wondering if it could be a bad board or if others are seeing console problems. If you'd be so kind to share

#14 tchristensen

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Posted 22 January 2015 - 06:30 AM

Hi Tim, I never found a fix. I am still unplugging the washer to 'reset' after each wash cycle. It has been two years and it keeps working, so I figure I will go with it! Moved the plug to a power strip on the wall for easy access. I don't know what is causing it, however I do think it has something to do with the detergent dispenser area leaking water onto some of the electrical controls. There is a dribble of crusted water that often appears down the side of the washer and around the outside of the dispenser drawer. There is a small amount of water occasionally on the floor under the front of the washer. Not sure about underneath...I don't really want to know. I can't pinpoint the reason for the water...seems to happen when we use the washer a lot, or when there is a large load of laundry in the washer. It may be related to the amount of detergent we use. The washer seems to work better when it is 'dried out'...and the need for unplugging between each wash cycle seems to vary with the amount we use it. Which is why I think the electrical problem is directly related to the water problem. No other console problems on our unit...just the inability to power up and the interior illumination light being 'permanently' on until the unit is unplugged and replugged in. Hope this helps. Tricia
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