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DanInKansas

DD603 -- Correcting drain hose problem

6 posts in this topic

General complaint of "dishes aren't really clean". In diagnostics, it's giving me a U1, so I am replacing the inlet valve. Except for a weak flow in the fill valve all other components tested okay during the hardware output tests.

However, I believe the drain hose is rigged wrong here. The drain hoses for the drawers are pointing straight up at an air gap. I was taught by the factory rep that FP drain hoses needed to glide down to their drain point and that the y-connector has to be straight up and down in the 12 and 6 o'clock position.

Based on the amount of gunk in the sump of the bottom washer, I am thinking I need to reinstall the drain lines based on the FP training. What I'd like to do if possible is just order new hoses and then clamp them onto the existing hoses so I don't have to uninstall the unit.

However, looking at the parts drawings I can get to on Sears, I'm not sure that's possible. If so, I don't have part #s.

Any input or help here?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

So I was right and wrong. When going to the disposal or other pipe without an airbreak, the drain hose must be a gentle slope and vertical. However, an approved kit with an airbreak is not a problem.

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I always found that if the hoses themselves were not secured to the wall etc, they can move and cause the outlet of the rubber Y connector to kink

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the y doesnt need to be vertical

it does need to face downwards

drain hose part numbers are

603

527137

605

522086

it doesnt matter which one you buy as its only the end that is different which you are going to cut off anyway

they are about 3 metres long so you would likely need to buy only 1 and cut it up

drain hose joiner

527394

this is a joiner to join drain hose to extend and comes with 2 butterfly wire clips

this is 1 joiner and 2 clips so order 2 for a double drawer

i put a little silicone on the hoses when fitting the joiner to ensure they never leak

this will allow you to extend the hoses , the hoses should go up to bench height and then down to the drain point

your U1 fault is most likely the reason because of poor drainage

i have also experienced issues on occasion where the one way rubber flapper valve in the drain hose at the base of the drawer

expands with age and does no always allow water to come out , it is noticeably larger than the new one

hope this helps

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I'm a former F&P warranty tech and have dealt with this more times than I can count. "Not cleaning well" and a bad drain install sometimes go together but sometimes not.

 

You know for sure that you have a bad install if you drain the upper unit and the water ends up in the lower unit. If the customer only uses the upper then hold your breath and open the lower unit. If it's full of nasty water then Bozo-the-Clown did the install. More on that in a sec...

 

There is another reason for "not cleaning well". F&P dish drawers have an owners manual that states very clearly that the owner needs to do a water hardness test (kit available at Home Depot) and then set up the options according to the results. This includes the rinse aid setting and (optional) salt style water softening system. The unit comes from the factory set at a default that sometimes works well with a customer's water hardness, sometimes is horrid and most of the time is so-so. Units that have been set up correctly after a water hardness test almost alway kick some serious rear end in the performance department.

 

Now, on to my own emotionally traumatizing drain experiences... also known as the Lowe's install contractors from hell.

 

When I was an F&P warranty tech about 7-8 years ago there were almost no other drawer style dishwashers out there.  Even today, installers often don't know what they're looking at when they grab that Y drain coupling, don't bother to (gasp) actually read the directions and just jam it on any way that they can.

 

What makes me want to chase them with a chain saw is when they cut the couping because the end is too large to attach to the disposal the way that THEY want to do it. The coupling is stepped, wide at the end and narrower deeper in. Installers often think that they're supposed to cut the large part off and then shove the narrower part onto the disposal inlet. They're not.

 

Worse, Joe Bob installer often cuts it and then doesn't bother with a high loop. Presto... now your lower unit is full of rancid water even though Mrs. Jones has never used it.

 

Both issues can lead to poor performance. The solution is install and set up the unit correctly, according to the installation instructions. This means actually following the instructions for the drain coupling, double hose hanger and instructions for the water hardness test.

Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar

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