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PeterNil

GE Model # WSXH208V1WW Serial # VV404653W

47 posts in this topic

References: (1) the generic Electrolux service manual online. The topis of motor not running is on page 50. (2) Tech Sheet in the washer. - Pub. 31-15405. One difference is that the generic manual mentions a 10 and 6 pins on the speed control board, while the washer has a 9 and 4 pins, as pointed out in this troubleshooting: Based on the feedback for that posting I used the tech sheet for troubleshooting. And I'm assuming that the both pin plugs are reversed compared to the graphics in the sheet and the comment by Steve in the referenced post (as there is no connector for "pin 3 of the nine pin plug" if you read them from top down as suggested in the sheet).

Problem:

Initially the motor would agitate, but not spin. A local technician suggested I replaced the pump, which I did. Though after that the engine did not turn. The timer does move. The door locks and the water runs, when starting a cycle. The pump also pumps the water out.

Troubleshooting

In the tech sheet the 6 points is for troubleshooting, when the motor will not run. So that fits well.

Step 3 there is 120 volt between pins 2 and 4 in the 4 pin plug. "If the meter reads 120 VAC go to step 4."

Step 4. The voltage drop between pin 6 of the nine pin plug and pin 4 of the four pin plug is 120 VAC. "If the meter reads 120 VAC go to step 5."

Step 5. The reading between pin 3 of the nine pin plug and pin 4 of the four pin plug is 120 VAC.

Step 6. There is no resistance between pins 1 and 3 of the four pin plug. (The resistance bewtween pin 2 and 4 of the four pin plug is 17.4 ohms.)

Please advice on next steps and how to get the right troubleshooting advice for this specific washer.

Peter

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If you have a new door lock give it a try, it's the most common part to fail.

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Thanks Reg, Nick and Samurai!

Reg: yes those are the right sheet and manual!

Looking at this posting again: http://appliantology...er-wsxh208v1ww/ - I tested the door as Reg suggested:

"Posted 11 June 2011 - 01:48 PM

Does the Door lock ?

Does the Door really lock ?

While it's in the Spin Cycle and the Door is locked,

un-plug the Washer from the Wall Outlet.

Can you then immediately open the Door ?" And the answer is: yes you can immediately open the door.

And you guys' responses all points to that the door lock (door latch) is the likely problem. Correct?

Was the reason that the motor (1) initially would agitate, but not spin and (2) later it stopped running all together; because the door lock was still initially somewhat working?

Edited by PeterNil

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... yes you can immediately open the door...all points to that the door lock (door latch) is the likely problem. Correct?

... Was the reason that the motor (1) initially would agitate, but not spin and

... later it stopped running all together; because the door lock was still initially somewhat working?

1) yes

2) yes

3) there now may be other problems

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Thanks so much Reg.

So you are recommending replacing the door lock?

Do you have suggestions for what/how to troubleshoot the other problems?

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I went through the same troubleshooting steps as previously and now the voltages in step 3 to 5 are all 0 (measured them twice at different times). In step 6 the measure is 2.119 ohm. And previously the timer moved forward, it is not moving at all today. Makes me wonder, if I damaged something during the troubleshooting process?

So with the revised voltages I repeated the troubleshooting check list from “Tech Sheet” “(motor will not run)”

Step 3: “check the thermal cut out”. The resistance between 7 & 8 of the 10 pin plug for the motor connectors is 0 ohm. So that seems OK. See motor ohm measures below.

Step 4: “check timer contact 11 to 11A” – I do see 11A and 11B on the wiring diagram, which are the contacts nine plug pin 5 and 6 for the speed control board? Where are they on the washing machine?

Step 5: “check timer contact 24 to 24B” – I see 24 and 24 B on wiring diagram as a switch next to the pin 3 of the nine plug pin. Where are they on the washing machine?

Checking the motor resistances and the armature rotor winding has indefinite resistance, while the rest seems OK within the +-10%.

Stator winding full field. pin 3 & 4; recommended: 1.26 ohm; actual: 1.4 ohm; almost OK

Armature rotor winding: pin 5 & 6; recommended: <5 ohm; actual: indefinite; no connection!

Tachogenerator: pin 1 & 2; recommended: 135 ohm; actual: 137.1 ohm; OK

Thermal protector: pin 7 & 8, recommended: <1 ohm; actual: 0 ohm; OK

Edited by PeterNil

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1) ... Step 4: “check timer contact 11 to 11A” ... Where are they on the washing machine?

Step 5: “check timer contact 24 to 24B” ... Where are they on the washing machine?

2) ... Armature rotor winding: pin 5 & 6; recommended: <5 ohm; actual: indefinite; no connection!

1) on the Timer

2) doesn't look good

00695135.jpg

earlygallerytimer.jpg

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Kinda funny that Electrolux used to be White Westinghouse before Frigidaire owned it and they made appliances for General Electric, one of their biggest competitors.

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Thank you very much Reg.

Timer connections: 24 B is OK. 24 is not connected on the drawing nor on the timer. 11A and 11B connections looks OK, i.e. the cords going out from the plug are connected. Is there more to troubleshoot to explain why the timer stopped moving forward?

Armature rotor winding (pin 5 & 6) no connection! Any recommendation for a solution for this one?

In "addition" to the timer, motor and door lock replacement what else do you recommend? Apart from going shopping for a new washer :( .

Edited by PeterNil

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... 24 is not connected on the drawing nor on the timer.

... troubleshoot to explain why the timer stopped moving forward?

... Armature rotor winding (pin 5 & 6) no connection! Any recommendation for a solution for this one?

1) drawing shows a Brown Wire on Timer 24 connected to the Motor Controller C1.3

2) Timer Pull-Switch, Door Lock Switch, Timer 5 to 5A

3) that would indicate a bad Motor

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Thanks Reg!!!

1) Timer connection 24: you are right and it’s there. Sorry.

2) (a) Timer pull switch: you mean the mechanical part at the front? That seems fine.

(b Door lock switch, and based on your suggested check in the previous post (quoted here) that seems to be a problem.

3) I could not understand why the motor would fail as well. So I took it out and checked the connections. The good news is that the armature rotor winding (pin 5 & 6) now have a resistance of 2.4 ohms. YES!

So I'm back to just the door lock? Any other leads?

Would you suggest I try to return the drain pump that I thought was the reason for the failure?:

Edited by PeterNil

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I removed the lock and am planning to try with a new one. And keeping the old drain pump in.

However one obstacle: on this model the bellows at the door comes off at the back not at the front (as shown on the video from repairclinic). Is there a video or drawings online to explain how to put it back together?

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It comes off both the front and back, on these older models the front lip was glued to the door opening, need to carefully cut it away - you cannot just swap out a new door switch on these, there is a harness and counterweight included in the kit - original door locks were solenoid operated, kit updates it to a wax motor latch.

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Thanks RoughShod.

Lock: They changed the design of the original lock. Now it seems like the harness and kit is not available from the repairclinic: http://www.repaircli...31888900/820920 or my local appliance parts store. I searched on Google, EBay and Amazon - no luck yet. Planning to go ask a local outlet store. Any leads?

Bellows: I took it off at the back - how do I get it back on? Are there videos or drawings online?

Edited by PeterNil

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Thanks RoughShed and Reg!

Door lock: I found a used one at an appliance outlet. Now, reassembling the wires. I can figure out 4 of the wires. Does it matter which of the two wires (blue/white & white) that goes to the two connections of the solenoid? I did not see any specific diagram in the manual and in the text just says to put it back the same way. I tried to see, if it works (water was not turned on, as the boot is not in yet) and it opens right after I turn the washer off. Is that just because the water is not turned on?

Bellows/seal. yes the front is glued. I'll use Samuari's guidance on how to get it back. I do not have the spacers that come with the bootkit. Hmm. Maybe two people can get it in together.

Thanks to everyone for their patient feedback.

Edited by PeterNil

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The washer just washed a "Knits & Delicates" with agitation and spinning. Thanks to you all for the help!!!!

Samurai's guidance and the service manual for the newer model were helpful for the "last mile", re-installing the boot/bellow; like understanding how it went on at the back side and using spacers to get the spring in place.

Edited by PeterNil
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So since November 29 the washer has been working fine till today. Now, the motor does not move at all. The timer moves forward OK.

 

So back to the Tech Sheet steps for motor does not run

Step 1: The drain pump runs go to step 2.

Step 2: If the motor does not run go to step 3.

Step 3  Remove the four pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltage drop between pins 2 and 4. If the meter reads 0 check the motor thermal cut out. Which has 0 resistance and the specifications is for less than 1 Ohm.

What's next then?

 

 

The motor resistances for tachogenerator (pins 1 & 2 - measure 134.8 Ohm vs spec of 135 Ohm) and stator winding full field (pins 3 & 4 - measure 1.3 Ohm vs spec of 1.26 Ohm) are OK.  Except for the armature windings (pin 5 & 6) that is infinite and should be less than 5 Ohm. It is measured at the contacts after pulling out the plug. But I had the same measure previously till I actually measured it on the motor side, which just requires that you pull the motor out. And I have not yet measured the stator winding tapped field, but the full field is fine.

 

 

On the speed control board. The voltage between pins 9,6 & 4,4: 0 Volts. pins 9,3 & 4,4: 0 Volts. pins: 4,1 & 4,3: infinite resistance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

Edited by PeterNil

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I wish all the front load washers used the worm gear clamp on the bellows that Whirlpool uses on the Duets, the garter spring that Frigidaire/Electrolux  uses on the back part of the bellows is a pain in the hands.

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Thanks RougShod.

 

So when I take the motor out. I can get the probes better in (same experience as previously) and it turns out the resistances are OK:

(1) The armature windings (pin 5 & 6) are 2.2 Ohm and should be less than 5 Ohm.

(2) The stator winding tapped field (pin 4 & 9) are 0.4 Ohm and it should be 0.37 Ohm (my meter can only measure down to a 1/10 Ohm).

 

With the motor out, the washer turned on, the speed control board measurements.

Pins 9,9 & 9,8 are 0 Volt and should be 137 Volt.

Pins 4,2 & 4,4 are 0 Ohm and should be 2.119 Ohm.

 

Great guidance is appreicated. Thanks!

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You should not attempt to measure motor outputs from board as it will be DC voltage and needs to be measured while working. When you disconnect the motor the voltage goes out the window (and can be nasty shock). You should be able to measure proper resistance of motor by disconnecting the motor harness from speed control and measure the 2 windings which should add together to make the third measurement ;also the tach.  The only other test is to plug the machine in and turn it on and see if you can measure 120v AC to

C2.2 and C2.4 (blue/white and white) - if you have that, issue is in the speed control, if not we continue to look upstream.

This "used" doorlock that you put in. looked the same as the one you replaced ?   These older units were born with a solenoid type lock, and later upgraded to a wax motor type, thus the expensive kit with harness etc. I am not sure it will work to just put a new style latch  into the machine without the rest of the modifications. 

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