39 replies to this topic

[PeterNil]

So since November 29 the washer has been working fine till today. Now, the motor does not move at all. The timer moves forward OK.

 

So back to the Tech Sheet steps for motor does not run

Step 1: The drain pump runs go to step 2.

Step 2: If the motor does not run go to step 3.

Step 3  Remove the four pin plug from the speed control unit. Measure the voltage drop between pins 2 and 4. If the meter reads 0 check the motor thermal cut out. Which has 0 resistance and the specifications is for less than 1 Ohm.

What's next then?

 

 

The motor resistances for tachogenerator (pins 1 & 2 - measure 134.8 Ohm vs spec of 135 Ohm) and stator winding full field (pins 3 & 4 - measure 1.3 Ohm vs spec of 1.26 Ohm) are OK.  Except for the armature windings (pin 5 & 6) that is infinite and should be less than 5 Ohm. It is measured at the contacts after pulling out the plug. But I had the same measure previously till I actually measured it on the motor side, which just requires that you pull the motor out. And I have not yet measured the stator winding tapped field, but the full field is fine.

 

 

On the speed control board. The voltage between pins 9,6 & 4,4: 0 Volts. pins 9,3 & 4,4: 0 Volts. pins: 4,1 & 4,3: infinite resistance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by PeterNil, 17 December 2012 - 04:10 PM.

[kdog]

Sounds like you may have worn motor brushes if the armature measures high resistance, and motor failing to turn either diredtion is a symptom of that.
 
see further info here: http://appliantology...del-fwt449gfs2/
 
and here: http://fixitnow.com/...g-washer-motor/
 
http://www.repaircli...8801195/1094128

 

 

 

http://www.repaircli.../605694/1559629

 

 

[Scottthewolf]

I wish all the front load washers used the worm gear clamp on the bellows that Whirlpool uses on the Duets, the garter spring that Frigidaire/Electrolux  uses on the back part of the bellows is a pain in the hands.

[PeterNil]

Thanks RougShod.

 

So when I take the motor out. I can get the probes better in (same experience as previously) and it turns out the resistances are OK:

(1) The armature windings (pin 5 & 6) are 2.2 Ohm and should be less than 5 Ohm.

(2) The stator winding tapped field (pin 4 & 9) are 0.4 Ohm and it should be 0.37 Ohm (my meter can only measure down to a 1/10 Ohm).

 

With the motor out, the washer turned on, the speed control board measurements.

Pins 9,9 & 9,8 are 0 Volt and should be 137 Volt.

Pins 4,2 & 4,4 are 0 Ohm and should be 2.119 Ohm.

 

Great guidance is appreicated. Thanks!

[kdog]

You should not attempt to measure motor outputs from board as it will be DC voltage and needs to be measured while working. When you disconnect the motor the voltage goes out the window (and can be nasty shock). You should be able to measure proper resistance of motor by disconnecting the motor harness from speed control and measure the 2 windings which should add together to make the third measurement ;also the tach.  The only other test is to plug the machine in and turn it on and see if you can measure 120v AC to

C2.2 and C2.4 (blue/white and white) - if you have that, issue is in the speed control, if not we continue to look upstream.

This "used" doorlock that you put in. looked the same as the one you replaced ?   These older units were born with a solenoid type lock, and later upgraded to a wax motor type, thus the expensive kit with harness etc. I am not sure it will work to just put a new style latch  into the machine without the rest of the modifications. 

[kdog]

Motor Resistance check - power off, machine unplugged, tan/black - tan/white approx 0.37ohms (tapped field) ;  orange/black - tan/white approx 1.26 ohms (full, or long field).

 

Voltage input to speed control - all harnesses plugged into board, set up meter to blue/white and white terminals and have meter so it can be read with you away from machine ("monitored") - plug in and turn on and observe (no hands near moving parts or motor casing).

[PeterNil]

Thanks RoughShod!

The motor resistances are OK. Based on the original and second posting yesterday.

On the speed control board the voltage between C2.2 and C2.4 are 117 VAC, and the spec calls for 120 VAC (measured on the incoming wires). This is different than measured in the first posting, when it was 0 VAC... So this does lead to Step 4 on the Tech Sheet motor does not run.

Step 4. "Remove the nine pin plug to the speed control unit. Measure the voltage drop between pin 6 of the nine pin plug and pin 4 of the four pin plug" (my comment: so both the nine and four plugs are removed). "If the meter reads 0". Which it does (measured on the incoming wires). "Check timer contact 11 to 11 A." I have not check these timer contacts now but did during the first troublshooting 2-3 weeks ago. "If the meter reads 120VACgo to step 5."

Yes, the used door lock is exactly as the original and it worked for 2-3 weeks.

And, I tested the door lock as Reg suggested here: http://appliantology...er-wsxh208v1ww/ -
"Posted 11 June 2011 - 01:48 PM
Does the Door lock ?
Does the Door really lock ?
While it's in the Spin Cycle and the Door is locked,
un-plug the Washer from the Wall Outlet.
Can you then immediately open the Door ?" And the answer is: NO, you cannot immediately open the door. So that makes me guess that the door lock is OK.

Edited by PeterNil, 18 December 2012 - 04:41 AM.

[kdog]

If it were the door switch, you would not get the power at the speedboard - If you are seeing 117 vac there (120v within 10%) and you are certain the motor and it's connecting wires measure ok, then it would seem you have a failed speedboard.

 

http://www.repaircli...ber=WSXH208V1WW

 

 

 

Or a cheaper alternative without the Platinum Plated GE brand packaging:

 

http://www.repaircli...31789600/823078

 

 

[PeterNil]

Thanks RoughShod!!!

 

This is strange. On the speed control board the voltage between C2.2 and C2.4 is 0 VAC. This is the third measurement and the volts has been 0, 117 and now 0 VAC. The washer was connected and turned on to the regular washing program. Any obvious explanation?

 

After checking the voltage, I checked the motor brushes and one is 15-17 mm, while the other is down to 3-5 mm, and looks like it certainly needs to be replaced! I figured out how to take the brush out of the plastic housing (marked with an R). The motor is by FHP Motors and the part number is 131 276 200 Rev F, which corresponds to the link you provided about exhanging the brushes.

Edited by PeterNil, 18 December 2012 - 11:40 PM.

[kdog]

There are a few points in the cycle that power is just taken away from the speedboard near the end of the first wash tumbling, then for 100 seconds or so each time it fills until the waterlevel switch closes.

Back to that switch as a possible suspect

[PeterNil]

Thanks for the explanation about the variations in the voltage.

 

Switch: do you mean the brush? Even when the resistances measures for the motor are OK? And of course the worn brush should be exchanged.

 

Do you believe that worn the brush could be primary reason the motor stopped working?

Edited by PeterNil, 19 December 2012 - 01:28 AM.

[kdog]

No, the doorswitch - if you are losing voltage to the board other than the few increments that it is supposed to disappear, there could be an issue with the switch.

[PeterNil]

OK. So the used door lock that was put in 3 weeks ago may be faulty now.

Edited by PeterNil, 19 December 2012 - 01:31 AM.

[kdog]

If you can measure voltage across switch while it's (not) running - black to black red should remain steady 0 VAC.   I have been known to unscrew the latch and slide the wires out through the boot and plug lock onto the latch with door open - connect another small hose to waterlevel switch and blow full of air, then pinch hose with vicegrip so air stays in hose; now unit will run as if full of water with door open and switch terminals exopsed.

 

Also make sure one of the tabs isn't broken off the door hook

 

http://www.repaircli...ber=WSXH208V1WW

 

 

[PeterNil]

So I wanted to check out the door switch as you suggested. Put the motor back in placed and pulled the timer out at spin and the motor started! Then I ran a normal wash and it went OK, including fast spinning.

 

Looks like an intermittent error. Is that possible related to the three diffferent measures of voltage over C2,2 and C2.4 on the plug for the control board? Still pointing to the door switch?

Edited by PeterNil, 19 December 2012 - 04:16 AM.

[kdog]

Yes, possible if the power is being lost to speed control - more likely is the motor brushes, when they are worn the motor may or may not start depending where they are contacting armature.

 

See this thread as CTG appears to have one of those motors he would like to sell - being X-mas and all, he might even give you a deal.

[PeterNil]

Thanks so much RoughShod!

 

This is great to know about CTH for right now I just need one brush. But I have an extra new pump that CTG may be interested in. Again, thanks for helping me though this.

 

PS. One other question. What's the best way to get service manuals here (1) how do you search for them and (2) I posted a request for one and got no reply for some days now.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I posted a request for one and got no reply for some days now.

this GE Microwave thread ?

http://appliantology...10955b-request/

 

1) JEB10955B

check that model number again ...

maybe

 JEB1095BBxx

 

2) GE info is sometimes nearly impossible to get ..

[PeterNil]

Thanks RegUS_PatOff!

 

My fault. Sorry: JEB1095SB.... I did use glasses reading it.... I can't change the title of that request, should I just repost?

Edited by PeterNil, 20 December 2012 - 06:23 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

title changed ...