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Sears 110.28892790 Washer Not Spinning - Jackhammer Sound


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31 replies to this topic

#1 obenourb

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:44 AM

The washer fills fine, agitator agitates, drain pump removes H20, and the at the time it is supposed to start the spin it doesn't and makes a sound like a jackhammer.  Sounds like a relay trying to repeatedly engage or something like that.  Outcome is soggy wet clothes, unhappy wife, and life is near ruin.  Any ideas out there as to what to check or what part to buy?


Brent

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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:24 AM

http://www.repaircli...er=110.28892790



#3 fairbank56

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:25 AM

  I suspect either a gearcase issue or the spin tube brake cam driver. You need to take the cabinet off, bypass the lid switch and observe the clutch hub during spin. It should not spin during initial drain but should after motor pauses and starts again for spin. If it does not spin, I would remove the motor and check the drive coupling although if it is shot, it would not likely agitate either. If the coupling is ok, and the clutch hub is not spinning, you have a gearcase problem. I have a pic of where to look for the clutch hub but the site isn't allowing me to add it right now so here is the link to the pic.

 

http://home.comcast....olClutchHub.jpg

 

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#4 aasnowskate

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:28 AM

Have you checked the coupling? Part # 285753A. That motor is direct drive, not belt driven. Those couplings break. It is an easy fix. You only need a few tools. It still pumps when the coupling is broken, which makes it nice because you don't have a tub full of water.



#5 certified tech group 51

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:45 AM

Remove the agitator and look at the drive block....Are the ears/tabs of the spin tube inserted fully in the drive block.........(I should learn how to post pictures) :turned:



#6 fairbank56

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:57 AM

  Here's a pic. For some reason, when I click on the image button, the window never pops up to put the link into however, the link button works fine.

 

Eric

 WhirlpoolDriveBlock.jpg


Edited by RegUS_PatOff, 29 November 2012 - 11:47 AM.
works for me ..


#7 nickfixit

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:32 PM

Your washer has a 3 speed motor. That means there is an extra 2 wire harness that connects to the motor. If this connection is loose, the machine will pulse, buck, click, ect.. instead of spinning steady. Check it first, it's an easy no cost fix.

 

Nick.

 

If you could post a sound or vid clip that would help us point you in the right direction.


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#8 fairbank56

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 09:30 PM

  Those two wires are for extra slow and slow speeds. If the speed select switch is set for regular or heavy duty, it's going to spin in fast speed.

 

Eric



#9 obenourb

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 07:55 AM

I took it apart and the clip that is up inside the brake (above the clitch) came off and mangled the plastic part.  I don't know what to call the parts and would love to have an exploded diagram along with a parts description so I know what to order.  Can anyone help?


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#10 fairbank56

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 09:04 AM

  That's the brake cam driver , part number 64194, that comes with the clutch band kit.  If you need a new clip, it's called a retaining ring, part number W10083200.

 

Eric

 

 

WhirlpoolBrake.jpg


Edited by fairbank56, 10 December 2012 - 09:30 AM.


#11 obenourb

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 09:38 AM

Thanks - that is the part.  Any idea why this might have come off?   Also - I think I would like to replace the brake pads as they look pretty worn.  The diagram you provided shows them in the picture but the part numbers are not shown.  Could you provide those part numbers too?


Brent

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 09:39 AM

Clutch band kit ==> http://www.repaircli...artNumber=64194

 

And how to install it:

 



#13 obenourb

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 10:13 AM

When I pulled the washer out to explore the problem there was a lot of dark colored dust on the floor.  It appears this came from the brake pads so while I am in the neighborhood it seems like a good idea to replace the brake pads too.  I can't find the brake parts online as I don't have any part numbers.  Any help here would be great news.


Brent

#14 fairbank56

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 10:15 AM

  Brake pads, part number 285438.

 

Eric



#15 suampman

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 10:23 AM

Normally that dark colored dust is from a worn rubber coupling. Make sure your coupling is good and replace if not. They are cheap.



#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 10:32 AM

Have you checked the coupling? Part # 285753A. That motor is direct drive, not belt driven. Those couplings break. It is an easy fix. You only need a few tools. It still pumps when the coupling is broken, which makes it nice because you don't have a tub full of water.

 

 

Normally that dark colored dust is from a worn rubber coupling. Make sure your coupling is good and replace if not. They are cheap.

 

 

What about this, obenourb?  You've not answered this yet.



#17 obenourb

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 04:03 PM

Coupler good and is pretty new.  Best I can tell the piece came loose and was in a way that the drum would spin but I am not sure the brake cams ever disengaged the brakes.  When I look at the pads they seem pretty thin compared to the pictures I see online.

 

It seemed that when I tried to put the retainer clip on the brake cam driver that it wouldn't go on right.  It was very tight to the cam driver and seemed like it wasn't going up the shaft far enough to allow the retainer clip to really fit nicely into the groove.  That may be why the clip comes off (twice now).  Are there any adjustments to make or reason?


Brent

#18 kdog

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 08:15 PM

The T-bushing in the bottom of basket drive has sheared off above the retaining ring groove - replace the Basket drive

 

http://www.repaircli...er=110.28892790

 

 

Basket-Drive-285792-00633302.jpg


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#19 fairbank56

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Posted 11 December 2012 - 09:28 AM

  Or you can replace the T bushing if you can get it out. This link has a good side view of the bushing so you can see where the clip goes. If this is the problem, you might as well try to get it out before buying a whole new basket drive.

 

Eric



#20 kdog

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Posted 11 December 2012 - 08:13 PM

But, since you can't buy the bushing seperately, you'll need the basket drive anyhow


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