Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Whirlpool freestanding gas oven: Mod# GS563LXSB0


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 GreenestOne

GreenestOne

    Yamabushi

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 75 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:java

Posted 04 December 2012 - 01:26 PM

The complaint was that the oven was intermittently working, then not working.

That is, reaching the set temperature sometimes and holding the temperature, then other times reaching the temp. then not holding the set temp.

Also, sometimes it would only go to 200 degrees then shut off, never warm up.

 

The first time I went out everything worked. I started the oven at 350F and it reached it and held the temp. I increased the temp. four times

and everything held. Each time you could hear the relay click open the gas valve, and the igniters were pale yellow to white.

The owners called back in about three weeks and said the oven was doing the same as before, not holding temp., etc.

I replaced the control board and temperature sensor, ran it through various cycles and everything seemed to be fine.

 

It seemed to me when checking the oven out as I did that the gas valve was functioning each time a demand was put on it.

The igniters were not bright as the sun, but they also seemed to hold the temp's I tried. That and the oven worked for a few weeks,

of if not daily, at least somewhat consistent use. 

 

Of course, on Thanksgiving day, the oven didn't work. THIS TIME the woman of the house told me a code came up on the display: (NO and PUSH)

She said the gas shut off because she couldn't use the burners on the stovetop for cooking. I couldn't find anything about this code.

 

This code came up again, because they were still using the oven some. Could this be related to the house wiring somehow?

Is it simply a bad gas valve? It seems like it is an electrical problem as much as it might be a "weak" gas valve. 

 

 



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 KurbyMstr

KurbyMstr

    Sōhei

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 102 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Cherry Coke

Posted 04 December 2012 - 03:52 PM

I would think it's something electrical going on also.  I would look for loose connections, starting at the outlet.  I'm not as familiar with the main gas valve on this model, but if it's an electrical problem you wouldn't get gas thru the secondary valve to the manifold.


Edited by KurbyMstr, 04 December 2012 - 04:01 PM.


#3 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 04 December 2012 - 10:18 PM

I cannot access the tech sheet at this time, but that unit uses direct spark ignition so the ignitors do not glow while the flame burns - the gasvalve for the oven operates differently, there are 2 coils in it (1bake-1broil), if one of the coils opens the control will go into shutdown, and this model also appears to have a safety solenoid which disables the entire gas supply upon failure.

The valve can be checked by measuring the coils (centre is common) - if 1 is open, replace the valve

 

http://www.repaircli...mber=GS563LXSB0

 

Valve-W10293048-01406895.jpg

 

 

http://www.repaircli...mber=GS563LXSB0

 

Gas-Valve-Solenoid-9758382-00991498.jpg


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#4 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 05 December 2012 - 01:28 AM

Here is a  similar manual - older version, does not have the shutoff solenoid.


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#5 GreenestOne

GreenestOne

    Yamabushi

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPip
  • 75 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:java

Posted 05 December 2012 - 11:07 AM

Thank you Kdog.  I had spoken to a local tech and they said that the gas valves on an oven rarely fail, at least not nearly as much as those on a dryer.

The intermittent operation really had me stumped. Of course when the burners shut off on the stovetop I new something affected the gas valve, but still did not

know if the source of the problem was electrical coming to the valve improperly.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics