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GE Fridge (1 of 2) GSH22JSXSSA -- temp problems


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8 replies to this topic

#1 DanInKansas

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 06:14 PM

Call started out pretty normal -- the customer complaint was "warm in the refrigerator, cold in the freezer."

 

Opened up the evap cover --  no defrost problem.  Nice clean evaporator.

 

Air chute at bottom is open and free of blockage.

 

Baffles opened up when I set the temperature to colder on the front door.

 

At the point I noticed that the evap fan was taking a long time to get started.  It would turn slowly, make a groaning noise, and then turn faster and faster. 

 

Two problems ensued:

 

1)  Went out today with part # WR60X10185.  However, the wire harness that went to the fan motor had six wires.  If I'd used the wire harness that came with the part, the freezer light would have had no power.  Am I supposed to get the light's wires out of the existing clip, or is there an additional part I'm missing?

 

2)  While I had the fan out, just for fun, I put my meter on the wall clip for the fan motor.  The fan motor has a label saying it's 9-something VDC.  I was getting a very consistent 13 VDC at the wall clip.  One of the techs I work with has insisted from the get-go that this is a board problem, not a fan problem. 

 

Is this the wrong motor?  or a possible board issue?  If the motor was 12 VDC and I was getting 13, I wouldn't care. But the difference between 9 and 13 is out of the 10% variation I was always told to allow.



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#2 kdog

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:11 PM

Did you see  this motor ?

 

Because you had the motor disconnected and read the harness voltage it was higher than expected, with the motor in the circuit, there is a voltage drop across the motor.


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#3 DanInKansas

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:22 PM

Saw that motor when I was looking up parts.  However, the motor I pulled today did not have a thermister in it. 



#4 kdog

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:25 PM

Would it matter if it did ?  looks like it has the 6 wires you require


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#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:35 PM

Tell your tech person you will replace the board if he guarantees he will pay for a replacement and your additional labor cost. As a general rule, never replace a board on a ge with evap fan issues until you test fan and check resistors under the j2 connector. If the fan is faulty or one of the resistors appears discolored, you must replace the fan before you replace the board otherwise you run a strong risk of damaging the new board.


Edited by DurhamAppliance, 05 December 2012 - 09:35 PM.

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#6 DanInKansas

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 12:24 PM

Talked a GE tech who came by our store today.  GE techs are required to have a molex pin remover in their bags just for this kind of issue, so I'll be going down to RadioShack to be able to do GEs according to their service manuals.

 

DurhamAppliance nailed it; this tech recommended I check for a light staying on or a bad door seal on the FF compartment.  Assuming those two are okay, he recommended I replace both the board and the fan.



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 02:22 PM

Main control board ==> http://www.repaircli...5X10942/1531075

 

Main-Control-Board-WR55X10942-01091474.j

 

 

 

Evaporator Fan ==> http://www.repaircli...0X10185/1170107

 

Evaporator-Fan-Motor-WR60X10185-00621353



#8 Scottthewolf

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 07:42 PM

I've yet to replace a fan motor on a GE refrigerator that uses a main control board.  Every time  I've come across a slow or inoperative  evaporator or condenser fan motor it's always been the board that failed.


Scott Wolf

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 07:52 PM

... he recommended I replace both the board and the fan.

 

This is what GE recommends in their training classes, too. 






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