Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

LG Dishwasher Model LDF7920WW


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 eaksmom

eaksmom

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts

Posted 07 December 2012 - 01:59 PM

My LG dishwasher has stopped working.  I have had it 2.5 years.  After one year the float assembly stopped working and was replaced, ti was all gunked up. In recent months the unit has been groaning and moaning but still working.  Would occasionally get an error code. I think it was E01, But start it again and it would run.  I likened the moaning and groaning to a bear coming out of its den in the spring feeling hungry and miserable at being woken up.  Ha Ha.  Any how it finally stopped cleaning at all.  Soap would be launched but undissolved - seemed to be no spray.  So I sat down this morning to browse this forum and then decided I should start it up once more to really note the symptoms and any error code that appeared.  No groaning this time, just a soft buzz which I assume was the motor trying to kick in.  This was right off the bat after the dishwasher did its initial drain.  I waited for it to stop and give me an error code.  But after a few minutes I smelled smoke - I opened the door and smoke came out but the noise did not stop.  I then pushed the power button and panel lights went out but the buzzing did not stop.  I had to go down and flip the breaker to get it to shut down.  Based on what I have seen and read I am guessing it needs a new sump assembly.  Any thoughts?

Having only had this dishwasher for 2.5 years and this being the second time it has broken down I wonder if I should just junk it and try a different brand.  

 

 



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Fermented Grand Master
  • 27,913 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 07 December 2012 - 02:19 PM

E1 means that there is not enough or very little water in the basin.  Generally, a lot of leakage or water drain out by siphon effect can display E1.  
 
A bad water inlet valve can also cause this problem but would probably throw a IE error code, instead.  
 
Check the drain hose for leaks.  Make sure you have an air gap at the drain hose where it enters the drain pipe and that the hose is not shoved too far into the pipe.  Also ensure that the drain hose is properly looped in back of the dishwasher. 
 
 


#3 eaksmom

eaksmom

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts

Posted 07 December 2012 - 03:49 PM

I will have a look at the drain hose.  What about the fact that it won't shut off.  I flipped the breaker back on the the thing kicked in again - with no lights on the control panel.



#4 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,950 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 December 2012 - 04:17 PM

SERIAL NUMBER would be a big help towards identifying fault.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 eaksmom

eaksmom

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts

Posted 07 December 2012 - 05:15 PM

Serial number is LG002KWXT00050



#6 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,950 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 December 2012 - 07:00 PM

<<<After one year the float assembly stopped working and was replaced>>>

 

*****************

 

The "Float Assy" is also known as a GUIDE ASSEMBLY (or part of it).

 

Hopefully it was replaced by an LG authorized tech that is current/aware of the various Service Bulletins.

 

The *correct* part number for the GUIDE ASSY is 4975DD1001A---and **must** have a RED DOT on it.

In addition---the build-date stamp should be 20110127 (2011/January/27th) or later.

Earlier GUIDE ASSYs were flawed---causing an incorrect water fill---and subsequent "E1" error.

This also created noises of "air sucking sounds" and/or "growl/groaning".

 

*******************

 

<<<ti was all gunked up.>>>

 

*******************

 

Usually occurs (in such a short period of time) in homes using well-water.

Worth checking the *floats* inside the GUIDE ASSY---to see if they're clogged/stuck in the wrong position (can cause continuous drain motor operation).

 

*******************

 

<<<But after a few minutes I smelled smoke>>>

 

*******************

 

Was the tub completely empty of water?

If the internal heating element is energized without water---a burning odor can occur. Especially if there's a problem elsewhere causing no water fill and/or continuous draining malfunction.

 

********************

 

<<<I then pushed the power button and panel lights went out but the buzzing did not stop.>>>

 

********************

 

Due to a malfunction (such as a stuck float)---the dishwasher MAIN BOARD may be in "emergency drain mode"---to prevent what it (computer) perceives---as a water overfill condition.

 

First course of action would be to inspect the floats in the GUIDE ASSY for excessive mineral accumulation (stuck).

 

Second would be---to verify that the replacement GUIDE ASSY is *not* one of the earlier defective units.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 eaksmom

eaksmom

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts

Posted 07 December 2012 - 07:50 PM

Thank you very much for this suggestion. It seems logical to check the float assembly first.  WE don't have well water, but we do have hard water.  The service was done by LG authorized tech as I convinced LG to fix it under warranty as it had been exactly 2 weeks longer than one year since installation.



#8 eaksmom

eaksmom

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 33 posts

Posted 07 December 2012 - 09:38 PM

I wonder... If the replacement assembly is not the new one then really LG should at repair this one under warranty as they didn't do it right in the first place. One can wish!



#9 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,950 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 07 December 2012 - 09:46 PM

<<<If the replacement assembly is not the new one then really LG should at repair this one>>>

 

***************

 

Absolutely.

 

If the GUIDE ASSY is indeed--the flawed one.

 

Easily verified by checking the date stamp---and---there's also a *gap* in the water path/channel (manufacturing error).

 

My guess would be that the *float* is stuck due to mineral build-up----causing the MAIN BOARD to "abort"  the cycle and energize/run the drain motor endlessly.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics