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Kenmore 90 Series Washer 11020922990 Oil Leak


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15 replies to this topic

#1 reptile

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 05:05 PM

OK, Wife tells me today that "The washer isn't working".  Checked it out and saw the black rubber under motor.  (motor coupler).  Had a new spare one in my tool box.  I have changed this part at least three times in the past 12 years.  Anyway changed it out and after connecting all wires (yes the lid wire and all the wires to the motor).  Plug in and all I get is a low humming sound.

 

Very strange as the unit was operating fine until the motor coupler broke.


Any and all suggestionw will be awesome.  I am very handy and do not want to retire this unit.

 

Thanks,

 

Reptile



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#2 sh2sh2

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 05:14 PM

take it back apart and try and turn the coupler on the trans by hand to make sure its not seized up, then make sure the pump spins freely then double check the wires



#3 reptile

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 05:58 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.  Both the Transmission and water pump turn very freely.  I check and double checked all the wires and all appears to be in order.  I had a spare motor and put it on only to get the same results.

 

I am not sure where the low sounding hum is coming from.

 

Any other ideas?



#4 prairiestr

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 07:09 PM

Is the washer in a spin cycle? If not, is it full of water? Is water turned on?



#5 reptile

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 08:27 PM

Partally Solved. The water was turned off.  Hooked it up and after about 15 minutes of running I noticed a small oil leak under the tranny.
 

Since this has now changed from a humming sound to an oil leak; I have started a new topic.  Thie problem with the humming sound is closed.


Edited by reptile, 12 December 2012 - 10:50 PM.


#6 reptile

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 10:43 PM

Today I replaced the motor / tranny coupler.  Since the coupler would not sit flush on the trany end I had to tap it in.  Afterwords it is running fine, but noticed a small oil leak.  I assume it is leaking out of the end on the tranny where the coupler attaches.  Is there a seal here that can be replaced or what?



#7 kdog

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 11:40 PM

Topics merged - how much oil we be talkin' about ?  a few drops in none the worry

 

Seal Kit for input shaft:  http://www.repaircli...l/285352/470681

 

 

Oil-Seal-285352-00565590.jpg


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#8 reptile

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 10:35 AM

It leaks only when the machine is running. The amount of oil is a small puddle about the size of my hand. I would say a considerable amount. I have a spare transmission and will swap out this am. Should I mess with the brake or clutch? Regarding this seal; I will order one today. Do I just knock out the old one from the inside and press in the new one? Thanks for the help.

#9 jumptrout

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 11:06 AM

To remove the seal,I use a drywall screw.

Use your electric drill to run the screw in at the 2 o'clock position through the seal.

The screw will hit the gearing behind the seal and pull the seal out.

Use a 3/4 socket to seat the new seal.



#10 reptile

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 11:22 AM

Awesome, So you are saying I can replace this seal without opening the unit up?  (replace from the outside?)

 

Thanks



#11 jumptrout

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 12:59 PM

Remove the cabinet.

Lay the machine on its back.

Remove the pump and motor.

Remove the drive coupling on the transmission.

Remove the motor mounting plate from the transmission.

Remove the seal as described above.



#12 reptile

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 07:19 PM

 

OK,

 

Since I have already taken the tranny out I am not sure of the exact spot you mention is the 2:00 postion.  I have attached a photo with the unit on my bench.  I have put hash marks on the photo like a cloce face.  Can you tell me according to the orentation of this picture the spot I need to use the drywall screw to take out the seal.


Thanks,

Attached Files



#13 jumptrout

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 07:35 PM

Well....my clock has the 2 between the 12 and the 3.

What time zone are you in?



#14 reptile

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 07:59 PM

Guess I am to used to digital clocks!?  Anyway I will try this when I get the parts.  Thanks.



#15 reptile

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 10:16 AM

Ok, followed your advice and the seal came right out. Regarding the oil loss; would you recommend that I fill through the seal opening until it spills out? I don't see any other way to add oil. I plan to use 90w gear lube.

#16 jumptrout

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Posted 14 December 2012 - 12:38 PM

With the seal out,that is the simplest way to re-fill.

Unless you think you lost a lot of oil,it may be fine like it is.








Recent blog entries on this topic

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How to replace the Oil Seal Kit for gearcase input shaft on a Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 13 December 2012 - 03:55 PM

Y'all go grab a brewski and kick back while Professor jumtrout 'splains it to us...And here's the part link for the oil seal kit you'll need ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oil-Seal/285352/470681 http://www.rcappliancepartsimages.com/dbImages/i/00001877/Oil-Seal-285352-00565590.jpg  The kit comes with two different seals so it can work with...

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