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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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reptile

Kenmore 90 Series Washer 11020922990 Oil Leak

16 posts in this topic

OK, Wife tells me today that "The washer isn't working".  Checked it out and saw the black rubber under motor.  (motor coupler).  Had a new spare one in my tool box.  I have changed this part at least three times in the past 12 years.  Anyway changed it out and after connecting all wires (yes the lid wire and all the wires to the motor).  Plug in and all I get is a low humming sound.

 

Very strange as the unit was operating fine until the motor coupler broke.


Any and all suggestionw will be awesome.  I am very handy and do not want to retire this unit.

 

Thanks,

 

Reptile

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

take it back apart and try and turn the coupler on the trans by hand to make sure its not seized up, then make sure the pump spins freely then double check the wires

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Thanks for the quick reply.  Both the Transmission and water pump turn very freely.  I check and double checked all the wires and all appears to be in order.  I had a spare motor and put it on only to get the same results.

 

I am not sure where the low sounding hum is coming from.

 

Any other ideas?

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Is the washer in a spin cycle? If not, is it full of water? Is water turned on?

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Partally Solved. The water was turned off.  Hooked it up and after about 15 minutes of running I noticed a small oil leak under the tranny.
 

Since this has now changed from a humming sound to an oil leak; I have started a new topic.  Thie problem with the humming sound is closed.

Edited by reptile

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Today I replaced the motor / tranny coupler.  Since the coupler would not sit flush on the trany end I had to tap it in.  Afterwords it is running fine, but noticed a small oil leak.  I assume it is leaking out of the end on the tranny where the coupler attaches.  Is there a seal here that can be replaced or what?

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It leaks only when the machine is running. The amount of oil is a small puddle about the size of my hand. I would say a considerable amount.

I have a spare transmission and will swap out this am. Should I mess with the brake or clutch?

Regarding this seal; I will order one today. Do I just knock out the old one from the inside and press in the new one?

Thanks for the help.

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To remove the seal,I use a drywall screw.

Use your electric drill to run the screw in at the 2 o'clock position through the seal.

The screw will hit the gearing behind the seal and pull the seal out.

Use a 3/4 socket to seat the new seal.

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Awesome, So you are saying I can replace this seal without opening the unit up?  (replace from the outside?)

 

Thanks

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Remove the cabinet.

Lay the machine on its back.

Remove the pump and motor.

Remove the drive coupling on the transmission.

Remove the motor mounting plate from the transmission.

Remove the seal as described above.

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OK,

 

Since I have already taken the tranny out I am not sure of the exact spot you mention is the 2:00 postion.  I have attached a photo with the unit on my bench.  I have put hash marks on the photo like a cloce face.  Can you tell me according to the orentation of this picture the spot I need to use the drywall screw to take out the seal.


Thanks,

post-3349-0-06098800-1355444215_thumb.jp

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Well....my clock has the 2 between the 12 and the 3.

What time zone are you in?

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Guess I am to used to digital clocks!?  Anyway I will try this when I get the parts.  Thanks.

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Ok, followed your advice and the seal came right out. Regarding the oil loss; would you recommend that I fill through the seal opening until it spills out? I don't see any other way to add oil. I plan to use 90w gear lube.

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With the seal out,that is the simplest way to re-fill.

Unless you think you lost a lot of oil,it may be fine like it is.

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