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    • 30 March 2024 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in this workshop on all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This workshop is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      If you have a specific appliance problem you'd like us to talk about, post it here! We need a problem statement and a PDF of the tech sheet or schematic so we can all see it on screen share. If you have a PDF that isn't already in the File library here at Appliantology, send it to us by attaching it to the contact form. 
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      Where: Online via Zoom
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suggestion for new electric water heater?


paschal_old

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Always like to prepare for the worst cuz that is what usually happens. I know the top element in my 10 year old water heater is gone, and lukewarm showers suck. Due to work hours can not get to until Saturday, as flushing a couple times replacing elements etc can take a few hours. When the element blew, it melted the wiring off of the screw. Since I already had on hand a spare anode and two elements, the right thing to do is go through the process and see if it was a fluke. If the water heater does not respond properly, obvious replacement. I have no problem installing an electric. I have a problem with horrible reviews I read on big box models. I am thinking Marathon for the lifetime tank warranty. As a water heater is always an emergency to address, would appreciate some fast comments.

 

Thanks as usual!

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Quick and dirty water heater element change

 

turn off power to heater

 

turn off water to heater or house 

 

re-leave pressure anywhere you want but when it's gone close the valve (sink , tub ect )

 

remove cover and disconnect wires

 

get new heater element ready , remove from package , put on gasket ect

 

put big towel down in front of heater

 

loosen old element with wrench about a half turn

 

hold new element in one hand , unscrew old element with the other , and switch them out quickly ( make sure as your unscrewing the old element the o ring comes with it )

 

use wrench to tighen , hook up wires ect  , your done

 

if done right you will loose less than a glass of water on the floor

 

always leave yourself the out if things go wrong of reversing and putting the old element back in , if you can't get the threads to start or something like that


 

I have done hundreds this way and even the old 4 bolt type with no problems at all

Edited by Cactus Bob
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Thanks guys. Had a little more time than expected this morning. Gave it a couple of flushes followed by a good pressurized flush, replaced both elements and all seems good but will shut off power when not home for a few days just to be safe.

 

The remaining issue for now is the anode. Used a six point socket and two foot breaker bar but could not break it loose. Shot a little silicone and WD40, still no go. I'm pretty sure the anode is shot due to age, rotten egg smell came and went a while back, etc. Did not want to get too crazy with an empty tank as it is better to do that when mostly full, cooled down and have the use of an extra human stabilizer. Thought someone here might have an idea for a safe solvent to help loosen the frozen rod even if over a couple of weeks. I don't care for more silicone and WD40 than needed in my diet. Any ideas?

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here in Arizona , the anode never comes out , i always thought it was the water here .

 

you find a trick , let us know , i guess i am not the only one that would like to change out the anode

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Kohai: and everyone:

 

Now that the water runs hot, will be working on that. Talked to a couple of people that swear by PB Blaster, about $5 can. They say the rust will liquify with a daily quick shot over a week or two. I will report back on how that works out.

 

Suggestions recieved on replacement of elements without a flush......I should have had the video cam running today to send a copy....I hit the pop valve on a no pressure flush first...pretty dark stuff a good part of the way......followed by an under pressure flush which took a good five minutes or so to truly run clear. Post maintenance refill open faucets...the three that I opened between the two floors ran off color for a good two minutes after blowing air and had to pull the screens for cleaning on all three. The good news was no white goo found anywhere. I have to think that flushing provides a needed service, although it does create quite a bit more work cleaning screens elsewhere in the house, which I expected, no biggie, they needed it anyway. Thanks and checking out for now....will report back on the rust busting.

 

Thank you again everyone as usual.......dishwasher, water heater, firidge two times, washing machine, dryer, heat pump.....items repaired or issues resolved with the help of this forum....bunch of great folks!

 

BTW.....one other item......have a friend who races cars at a local track and builds engines etc and uses a high power inspection camera.....said I could borrow it next time I empty the tank.....seems like a great tool to track wear and tear on a water tank as it ages and replace it before it leaks.......I'm still thinking the Rheem Marathon plastic form as a final replacement, as they give you a free replacement if it ever leaks....lifetime warranty. Many EMC's (although not mine) are selling them, as well as special order from Home Depot.

 

Again Thanks!

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