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Amana Fridge Problem


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19 replies to this topic

#1 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 04:14 PM

I have an Amana BBI20TPE fridge (fridge on top, freezer on bottom).  The fridge has been getting warm on occasion, but not all of the time.  Often times it's cold, but at times recently it does get warm.  The freezer is plenty cold.  I've read that the coils could be frosted over, and I'm about to dig into things.  Question is,why would the problem only occasionally occur?  What would be your guess on the issue?  The damper on the top portion of the fridge seems toblow cold air (when it's working). Should I take the cover off the back of the freezer and test the defrost thermostat?  Suggestions? 



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#2 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 04:34 PM

Also, not sure if it's related, but sometimes things will freeze in the fridge, not always, but usually at the back of the fridge.



#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 04:50 PM

... The fridge has been getting warm on occasion, 

... The freezer is plenty cold. 

actual Fridge & Freezer temperatures may be helpful

http://appliantology...mana-fridge-bm/


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#4 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 09:26 PM

Sorry, I don't have actual temperatures.  But the freezer keeps things frozen, but the fridge, most of the time keeps things cold (assume normal cold fridge temps).  BUT recently it will, on occasion, not keep things in the fridge cold at all.  As in room temperature.  But for the last 4 months or so, also on occasion, it would freeze some items along the back wall. 

 

So it's not like the fridge portion is warm all of the time, just occasionally.  Hopefully this helps some.



#5 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 09:34 PM

I remembered my temp. gun and if accurate, the fridge is currently showing 42deg. and the freezer is showing 10deg.  but I know my wife has played around with the temp knobs but both currently on 5.  Currently it is empty.


Edited by ColoradoDoug, 22 December 2012 - 09:35 PM.


#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 09:44 PM

Your Cold Control adjusts the Freezer temperature by controlling the Compressor.

The Fridge is controlled by the Damper, and if the Evaporator Fan is working.

Usually, the Freezer temperature should be about 0F and the Fridge about 40F.

 

You may have other problems.

Does your Compressor ever turn OFF ?

or does it run continuously ?

A picture of the Freezer Evaporator frost pattern may tell a story.


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#7 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 10:02 PM

The compressor does shut off.  I have not yet taken the cover off the back of the freezer.  I was trying to find a service manual for it to identify exactly where and what everything is.  Not saying it's the issue, but I see the "common" parts for this model is the damper.  How can you check to see if the damper is not functioning? 



#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 10:06 PM

When the Fridge should be colder, is the Damper "open" and is the Evaporator Fan blowing ?

 

Also, does the Fridge Light turn OFF every time the Door is closed ?


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#9 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 10:17 PM

I will have to wait for it to decide to get warm again and check.  As for the light, I can press the switch and the light goes out.



#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 07:26 AM

I remembered my temp. gun and if accurate, the fridge is currently showing 42deg. and the freezer is showing 10deg.  but I know my wife has played around with the temp knobs but both currently on 5.  Currently it is empty.

 

 

Infrared temperature guns are not a good way to measure the temperature of a refrigerated space because you're really measuring the temperature of items in that space.  Since the emissivity of those items vary widely and you cannot account for that in the gun, the readings are at best an approximation.  When you're dealing with the difference between a freezer temperature of 0F and 10F, this is difference between a good freezer and a possible sealed system problem.  But if your measurement is not accurate, you can't tell that because you're probably just dealing with measurement error.  Accurate baseline temperatures is the foundational diagnostic data for troubleshooting any refrigerator problem.  

 

Moral of the story:  only use a K-type thermocouple instrument to measure the temperature in refrigerated space (same goes for temperature in ovens.  

 

Better yet, get a temperature-time profile with a data logger:

 



#11 certified tech group 51

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 10:32 AM

I would take a good look at the evaporator motor....possibly the top bearing failing and the fan motor is slow to not starting and running at the correct speed .........The original motor is N.L.A.....................  But, by what I can find,  there is a kit........... Original p/n 10654206........................ R/C offers  after market motor kit..............P/N R1051005..................................... Do as  The Grand Fermented Master suggests, git yer self a K type thermometer..........................P.S... for a long haul data,  use a Data Recorder such as the Supco SL300t.....It will record the data  when you are not there.


Edited by certified tech group 51, 23 December 2012 - 10:35 AM.


#12 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 01:57 PM

I was able to take the back panel off the freezer today and it had very minimal frost.  I will try to test te defrost thermostat tomorrow.  I've been pretty busy (I work at Fedex).  I don't think I want to spend big bucks on a pricey data logger, I can maybe get a regular thermometer and check temps.  I still have not found it warm again. Especially since we emptied everything out.  If temps are in the proper range, does it seem like maybe the damper? 



#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 02:58 PM

... I was able to take the back panel off the freezer today and it had very minimal frost.

... I don't think I want to spend big bucks on a pricey data logger, 

1) evenly frosted over the entire Evaporator ?

 

2) get (2) of these

stick one into a cup of water in the Fridge for a few hours,

other one into a bag of peas in the Freezer

 

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,
 sometimes on sale for $ 2.99
image_1255.jpg


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#14 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 02:02 PM

"1) evenly frosted over the entire Evaporator ?"

 

Yes, and very minimal.

 

 

 

Fridge is warming up this morning, looks to be 52 deg., and freezer is -8 deg.  evap fan is not running and no air blowing into fridge through damper.



#15 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 02:24 PM

I checked again and temps are the same.  i can hear the compressor running, but the evap fan still was not running.  I tapped the fan to see if maybe it was stuck and it tried to run a little and stopped.  Then struggled to run a little more and stopped.  Assume that something is keeping it from running and making the fridge warm, which means I need a new fan?  What usually goes bad with them, can it be cleaned and maybe a bearing replaced?



#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 02:57 PM

... which means I need a new fan? 

... can it be cleaned and maybe a bearing replaced?

1) measure the voltage at the Fan .. (while still connected)

2) no

 

***Original evaporator fan motor No Longer Available.

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=221793

 

Evaporator-Fan-Motor-R0151005-00558890.j


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#17 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 04:21 PM

I went to try and test the evaporator fan voltage and the heater was on and melting the frost front the coil. It was building up from me opening the door a number of times to check things.  I left things alone and let it finish.  Now I went back and the evaporator fan was running.  The fridge is now at 46 and dropping.  I didn't check voltage on the fan yet because it was on and the wire go in to back and I can't see where to test without taking the fan off the back wall.  Should I test voltage when it is running and/or when it's not running and the fridge is warm?  Ideas???



#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 04:42 PM

The Evaporator Fan on Amanas needs the Defrost Heater and it's Defrost Bi-metal Switch circuits to be good.

It seems they are..

which means the Fan is most likely bad.


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#19 ColoradoDoug

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 09:25 PM

Just curious, why is it sometimes it runs fine, and other times it struggles to move?



#20 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 09:08 AM

Bad bearings.




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