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DurhamAppliance

GE SxS gshl6kgzbcls manual request

7 posts in this topic

Customer complaint : Warm fridge, no water at dispenser, some frost on evap panel.  Initially thought bad board.  Arrived at sight and first thing I noticed was compressor running but evap fan not running. Looked at the frost and it was very light, probably due to bad air circulation..Freezer temp was uneven and very cold near bottom.  Okay, checked water at bottom of freezer door...none.  I thought bad board causing dispenser and fan failure.   But not so fast, found water coming out of valve and out of filter when dispenser was engaged....the problem was between valve and connection at bottom of door. It was not the board but a  frozen water reservoir. Probably due to customer maxing out freezer and subsequently the uncirculated ice cold air from bottom of freezer resulted in frozen reservoir in fridge. No problem, put large pan of hot water in fridge and successfully  thawed out reservoir while I checked fan at mainboard.

 

No burnt resistors and board was sending 13 vdc. to evap ..bad evap motor..board is fine.  More than likely a bad evap fan motor caused all the problems. I needed to order a motor but I usually like to put my eyeballs on the motor anyhow just in case there is an obstruction or bad/loose wire. Removed Ice maker bucket, auger motor then...there it was.... nothing....no screws where the screws should be...nope, nothing there.  Instead, standing in front of me was my dreaded enemy. Once again foiled by the cursed modular design. 

 

Checked my dropbox for the service manual....couldn't find anything except all the other profiles with screws...Probably prying would remove the upper panels but I hate fiddling with those things when I'm not sure where to pry first since the clips are so easily broken and I've broken a few in my day. Anyhow it was getting late..about 8:45 pm so I told customer we need to order a new motor. I'm certain that's the problem but won't really know until I disassemble this thing. At least I will only have to dis-assemble it one time.

 

Not quite sure why this model is a GSH as opposed to a GSS...I guess it is a builder/homedepot version. The "H" on other GE indicates inverter model...but that's not the case here. Any advice on dis-assembly would be helpful. I will also submit a request in the Service Manual section but thought posting here may help someone else in the future. Someone who like me, foolishly thought a SxS GE Profile is a Profile is a Profile.

 

Thanks for any help!..btw stay tuned for other misconceptions and silly mistakes I've made.  I'm willing to suffer  all the "what, you didn't know that!?"  in the hope of helping someone else.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I have the tech sheet but need a manual.  Thanks!

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Can you find what you need here ?

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Can you find what you need here ?

Disassembly is different. For instance, where there should be screws to remove upper assembly evap fan ductwork (page 26), the duct work is longer and there are slots on the sides and bottom. The upper assembly and lower assembly may only be one piece on this model but I am not sure. Probably easy once I try removing it. Stay tuned........Topic probably should be merged with http://appliantology.org/topic/40377-some-dis-assembly-required-ge-sxs-gshl6kgzbcls/ Thanks!

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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Minimanual added here ==> http://appliantology.org/files/file/497-ge-gshl6kg-refrigerator-minimanual/

 

Based on your description of a dispenser inop...

 

- Check the wire harness connector at the bottom freezer door hinge.  If it's corroded or schmutzed up, repair and test.  That will likely fix the problem.  

 

- If the wire harness at the freezer door hinge is good, then bad muthaboard is a sure bet ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075?modelNumber=GSHL6KGZBCLS

 

Main-Control-Board-WR55X10942-01091474.j

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The only problem was the evap fan motor. Dispenser failure was due to frozen reservoir caused by bad air circulation and maxed out temp controls. Fridge has been doing okay for 4 days now.

Thanks for the manual.....I was able to remove evap air duct. There were some screws after all. Auger assembly only had one screw as it slid into slots made into the plastic ice bucket rails. The problem was a small part of the duct lthat fed the damper was the only modular part and it was secured with tape on the back to the main ducting. Upper and lower ducts are made into one piece on this model . Without the tape, the ducting comes out with some force. With the unseen tape in place it took a lot more force. Because the duct is one piece, I had to remove the ice bucket railings to take the duct out. Lots of stuff to remove just to get to evap. Gonna check out manual to see if there is a shortcut.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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