5 replies to this topic

[AHAR]

I see that there is a problem with this. Kit is W10548435. From what I see there is a new clamp with some instructions. Does anyone know what is special about the kit? What is in the instructions? Is it just a simple hose clamp?

 

Thanks,

Tim

[Scottthewolf]

KitchenAid and Jenn-Air- STAINLESS STEEL UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER Outlet Hose Clamp Replacement Kit Serial Numbers: Serial Number Range: F20100000 to F21399999 Concern: Leak potential between wash motor and sump Cause: Outlet hose clamp to sump may not be properly crimped. This is the hose clamp on the sump side of the small hose (pressure side of wash motor).

[Chat_in_FL]

Is it just a simple hose clamp?

 

Thanks,

Tim

 

I have replaced this clamp with just a "simple hose clamp" with no ill effects. I believe the instructions say that the connection was over-lubricated and to ensure you wipe clean the excess lubrication before replacing the clamp...

Edited by Chat_in_FL, 27 December 2012 - 06:00 AM.

[AHAR]

Well, I received the part. The only thing it said  was not to over tighten it. The problem I have found is that the hose has a split in it. AND you can't just order that.....

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

KitchenAid and Jenn-Air- STAINLESS STEEL UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER Outlet Hose Clamp Replacement Kit Serial Numbers: Serial Number Range: F20100000 to F21399999 Concern: Leak potential between wash motor and sump Cause: Outlet hose clamp to sump may not be properly crimped. This is the hose clamp on the sump side of the small hose (pressure side of wash motor).

 

Scott, do you have the service update number on this?  

[kdog]

Those hoses have been slipping off the sump and flooding kitchens for several years - we found a supply of narrow mechanical clamps so we could snug them better - W/P rep said no just replace the sump ass'ys and if Honcho's thought it was widespread they would make a change. Now they come out with a clamp to affix ???

Alot of times the issue occurs because the circulation motor retainers get messed up during installation and such - then the weight of the running motor is tugging on the connection. The best fix would have been to add a knurl in the end of the sump housing where the hose is connected, this would give the connection some bite and seems you'd just need to modify the moulding machine for the plastic sump.  The motor/sump ass'y is failrly easy to change and luckily they don't hold much water to be recirced onto fancy wood floors.

 

I can think of several kitchen floors that were replaced via insurance claims - ran into a guy in the mall one day who remembered me as being one of the people at his house. Went on to tell me how his floor (in a bi-level house) had been replaced twice and is now super happy with the newest floor, this time with a new Bosch D/W in it's place.