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Taking Apart a Maytag Atlantis


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19 replies to this topic

#1 manjitr

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 01:28 PM

My Maytag Atlantis is having some weird noises during the wash cycle. Sounds like something is stuck between the agitator and the tub. It only makes the metal-on-metal sounds when the agitator is spinning and not the tub.

So I decided to take it apart but i need help. Some websites say there are clips on the underneath and some say there are clips on the top which need to slid inwards using a putty knife.

I found the clips on the bottom but they are really tight and i tried messing around with a screwdriver but didn't want to damage anything.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanx

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 01:50 PM

Post your model number.

 


#3 manjitr

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Posted 04 May 2005 - 08:03 PM

sorry

it's MAV6275

thanx

#4 manjitr

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 12:04 PM

Sorry again
its mav6257

thanx

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 02:52 PM

Not a good model number... either one! :poison:

Read this and try again.

#6 cm

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:12 PM

How do we open up the Maytag Atlantis washer - model mavt754eww?  I have to replace the drain hose.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 May 2005 - 06:16 PM

Use a stiff putty knife and push in on the clips at the top of the panel, in the seam (item 30).

#8 manjitr

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Posted 06 May 2005 - 06:32 AM

got it..

pushed the pins in and the lid came off.

now have to find out where the noise comes from.

i removed the agitator and the pastic tub but there was nothing..

it sounds like it's coming from right under the black tub.

do i have to pull the black tub out or can i just start working from down under the tub ?

 


#9 manjitr

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Posted 07 May 2005 - 09:25 AM

ok i just had a appliance repair guy take a look at it and he said the transmission is bad and he said it would cost $350 for the repair. but there was this other place i had called before and he said if the tub spins with no noise then the transmission is good.

so i don't want to keep paying 45$ call fee. if it's really the transmission then i would rather get  new machine and if it's not then i'll look into it or have someone with more experience to look into it.

are there any clues to a bad transmission.

any help would be appreciated.

 

thanx


#10 Lurker_mine too_*

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Posted 08 May 2005 - 03:27 AM

I had a noise that you described in my atlantis washer. My problem was the pump had a hair pin stuck in it. I removed the pin and the noise went away but the spin cycle does not extract the water properly now.


#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 May 2005 - 04:30 AM

Manjitr, how 'bout recapping the complete set of symptoms with your washer, there's been an evolution of the problem description in your posts.

#12 manjitr

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Posted 08 May 2005 - 10:11 AM

OK here's the problem.

The washer was completely fine until one day it started making loud noises. On furthur inspection we found out that it only made the noise on the wash cycle(when the agitator moves) and it runs smoothly during the spin cycle.

The agitator moves during the was cycle but only now it makes loud noise with small and quick sudden jerks to the agitator movement.

Then i pulled out the agitator and plastic tub thinking there might be something stuck in it and couldn't get down any furthur. So called up a repair guy and he said the transmission is bad with a repair cost of 350$ and he advised that i would better off with a new washer.

Now the guy who came in seem to be contradicting whatever i read on this site even claiming that i don't need anything like a brake tool to take apart the washer. And I have heard that maytags have a good transmission and they don't blow up that soon (machine bought in mid-2001). So is there a definite way of finding out if it is the transmission and not something else and easy to repair(like the maytag squeking post) before i go and get a new washer.

 ThanX



#13 Lurker_pottery mom_*

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Posted 08 May 2005 - 06:26 PM

my maytag atlantis is making noises too...like a chain is hung between the tub and something else metal...help!  the model number is MAV6300AWW.  it was purchased just a couple of years ago, under the premise that since our last one had lasted 15 years, this one would last past the kids' college years!  should I call a repair man or do you think it is something I can figure out myself? I was curious about the taking it apart idea that I thought you mentioned in another post, but could not find.

Thanks in advance,

M barber


#14 Ninja7

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 03:05 PM

Do I need to take apart the brake assembly in order to remove the and replace the tramsmission?

#15 Trying to help

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 04:31 PM

Yes because you have 3 screws that go up into the lower bearing assembly that are accessed via removal of the brake.
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#16 Ninja7

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 04:46 PM

I there any other way other than using the brake tool LA-2004 to remove the brake? I purchased the other tools needed to remove the transmission but the brake removal tool. I have the whole washer apart and just need to assemble the brake unit to the new transmission.

#17 Trying to help

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 05:15 PM

I have always used the tool.  Some of the techs have used Mr. Budget's technique listed below with success according to the posts.  If you have the old one off already, you would install the 3 bolts mentioned and start to tighten them up in a pattern, little at a time to compress it. 

 

[user=36]Budget Appliance Repair[/user] wrote:

You can do the job without the tool, just need to get three screws that are the same threads as the 6, 5/16" bolts holding the stator on. These three new screws have to be about 1 1/2" long.

Remove three of the original 5/16" head bolts and replace with the three longer screws, then remove the other 3 original 5/16" head bolts. Now you will gradually and evenly back-out the three long screws slowly letting the brake spring pressure off.

The brake tool cost around $100 and works very nicely also.
CLICK HERE to see and/or order the "Brake Tool"



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#18 Ninja7

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 08:43 PM

Thanks, I read the same thing in other forum. He mentions using 3" 10-24 bolts I'll try that method out. It wouldn't do justice for me to purchase a $100.00 tool to use just once. Being an auto/truck mechanic myself I have bought a lot of special tools for just a few uses.

 

http://groups.msn.co...516083547950011


#19 Ninja7

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 09:05 AM

Those long screws did the trick. It only costed me a less than a buck. Saved me $100.00.

#20 Trying to help

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 09:25 AM

Mr. Budget Appliance Repair knows his stuff.  I have the tool so I don't have to worry about cheating the system.  Plus staring at that warning label the whole time I was tightening up those Home Depot longer bolts would of forced me have to go and buy a special puller to get my panties out of my @$$ anyway!!!  Either way you are fixed Ninja7!!  
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