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Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 Will Not Start


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21 replies to this topic

#1 jlb813

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 05:59 PM

The customer has been working on this dryer for about a month. The unit does nothing when you press the start button. I have checked the door switch, the thermal fuse, and the motor. All check good. The customer says there was a wiring diagram but it is now missing. I believe the timer is bad but since I don't have a wiring diagram I am reluctant to order a new timer. Can you tell me how to verify whether the timer is the problem or not,



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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:18 PM

Did you check for 220 volts at the terminal block?



#3 jlb813

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:19 PM

Yes, there is 240 volts at the teminal block.



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:38 PM

While someone pushes the Start Button:

check for 120v AC at each side of white Thermal Fuse to chassis (ground)

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2986

 

 

IF OK,

then check voltage at each side of Start Switch to chassis (ground)

While pushed AND while not pushed

(may be 0v AC or 120v AC)

post results


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#5 jlb813

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:57 PM

I am no longer at the appliance, but while there I could not find power to the thermal fuse or the start switch. I had no power on the Lt Blue wire coming from the timer. I will be in that area again tomorrow and can recheck in accordance with your instructions if need be.



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:13 PM

Roper Dryer RED4440VQ1 made by Whirlpool

Wiring Sheet - W10185979.pdf

 

on the Timer,

there should  120v AC (to chassis, ground) at the C terminal (black wire)

and at the B terminal (light blue wire)

OR you could try a temporary jumper wire for testing purposes

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1481701

 

Timer-W10185972-01085458.jpg


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#7 dimitri77565

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:00 AM

Sensei , Good call , I use a jumper all the time to test .  Double piggy back from C to B.  Black is always L1 coming to timer also works for heat RED wire.

 

God I miss these old timers, so much harder with PCB's.



#8 jlb813

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:07 AM

Here are the latest voltage readings.

 

0 VAC at both sides of thermal fuse. 0 VAC at both sides of start switch (pushed or not) 0 volts to door switch.

0 volts at blue wire to timer. 124.6 volts on black wire at timer.

jumpered blue & black. Now 124V both sides of thermal fuse. 0 volts at start switch. 0 volts at door switch as well.

 

What is supposed to feed power to the door switch, start switch, and blue wire to timer?



#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:20 AM

... jumpered blue & black. Now 124V both sides of thermal fuse. 0 volts at start switch. 0 volts at door switch as well.

... What is supposed to feed power to the door switch, start switch, and blue wire to timer?

The Timer should feed power to the Light-blue wire, but you already have that jumpered ...

Looking at the wiring diagram posted earlier, the Door Switch and the Start Switch are fed from the Neutral line.

If you now have 120v at both sides of the Thermal Fuse, then the Motor Light-blue wire should have 120v,

and the other side of the Motor (white wire) should have 120v (and one side of the Start Switch until it's pressed)


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#10 jumptrout

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 04:55 PM

Yes, there is 240 volts at the teminal block.

Is there 120V from L1 and L2 to Neutral?



#11 jlb813

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:36 PM

I never saw that you had posted the wiring sheet (my bad). Thanks for that, now I can see where the power should be. Answering Jumptrout's question, yes there is 120 from L1 & L2 to neutral. Since I do not have 120 on the r/w wire going to the start switch, doesn't that indicate the motor switch is bad, and since I had to jumper the timer, it is bad as well?



#12 jumptrout

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:48 PM

Your entire problem is most likely a bad timer.



#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:56 PM

... I do not have 120 on the r/w wire going to the start switch, doesn't that indicate the motor switch is bad,

... and since I had to jumper the timer, it is bad as well?

1) Motor windings would be bad (if there's 120v on the other side of the Motor (light-blue wire)

2) yes, but would seems to be odd that (2) things would go bad ..


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#14 jlb813

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 07:09 PM

When I originally checked the motor, I applied 120 to the windings and it ran fine. I do not see where the motor switch is replaceable anyway though. Maybe jumptrout is right and if I replace the timer it will work. The problem is, if that doesn't do it, the customer probably doesn't want to replace both the timer and the motor.



#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 07:13 PM

1) Motor windings would be bad (if there's 120v on the other side of the Motor (light-blue wire)

2) yes, but would seems to be odd that (2) things would go bad ..


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#16 jlb813

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 07:34 PM

I will order a timer from Repair Clinic and if that doesn't fix it, I will return it if the customer doesn't want to go further. I will post the results after I replace the timer.



#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 09:06 PM

Jumpering the Timer would yell you if the Timer is bad ..

If there's 120v at the Light-blue wire at the Motor and 0v at the Motor white wire (while the Start Button is pressed),

the Motor should run ..


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#18 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:26 AM

If you checked the motor with a test cord and it ran it will run after you replace the timer, unless you have done something to the motor after running it with the test cord.   Like maybe forgetting to put the wire connector back on or if multiple individual wires, swapped some around.


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#19 jlb813

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:43 AM

My final update. I could not figure out why the motor wouldn't run so I went through everything again. Apparently, I had a bad connection at the door switch (I had it jumpered). I probed for power to the switch, pushed the start button, and the motor started. It wouldn't cut off unless I broke the connection at the door switch, or unplugged it. Turning the timer to off had no effect. I have ordered a new timer so that should fix it.



#20 jlb813

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 04:20 PM

I thought I was through with this post, but not so fast amigo. I replaced the timer and pushed the start button and the dryer started. The only problem was it cut off as soon as I released the push to start button. Of course, I tried that again (and again) with the same result. If I hold the start button, the dryer runs and heats, but as soon as I release the button, the dryer stops. I assume the motor has a centrifugal switch that is not working, but I don't what to do to correct it short of replacing the motor. Any suggestions?






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