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KitchenAide KUDS30IXWH4 keeps blowing thermal fuse

KitchenAide KUDS30IXWH4 keeps

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3 replies to this topic

#1 tpoindexter

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:40 AM

I have a Kitchenaide Dishwasher that I have replaced the thermal fuse in twice over the last 4 months. The fuse kit is part number w10402110 it's located in the front door panel with the control board. Because it's a thermal fuse that tells me the temperature is getting too hot around the control board.?. Anyone have any insight as to what's going on? It seems useless to just go install another fuse and not fix the underlying issue.


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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 10:42 AM

Did you install the new wiring block that came with the fuse?



#3 DanInKansas

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 11:25 AM

The first thermal fuses on those weren't tight enough and would blow.  The replacement kits come with a screw-in wire clip, and if you don't get those tight enough, or don't get enough wire into the clip, you'll get a loose connection and blow the replacement. 

 

If it were my personal unit, I would use butt slice connectors as opposed to the screw connectors supplied with the replacement.  Doubtless some people will call me nuts but I think a butt splice gives you a tighter connection.

 

As long as you have the door off and the control panel exposed, grab your meter, unclip the wire harness plugs in sequence and test each load to chassis ground.



#4 tpoindexter

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 03:43 PM

Did you install the new wiring block that came with the fuse?

No, I didn't.....crap....



The first thermal fuses on those weren't tight enough and would blow.  The replacement kits come with a screw-in wire clip, and if you don't get those tight enough, or don't get enough wire into the clip, you'll get a loose connection and blow the replacement. 

 

If it were my personal unit, I would use butt slice connectors as opposed to the screw connectors supplied with the replacement.  Doubtless some people will call me nuts but I think a butt splice gives you a tighter connection.

 

As long as you have the door off and the control panel exposed, grab your meter, unclip the wire harness plugs in sequence and test each load to chassis ground.

Thanks for the information guys..


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