17 replies to this topic

[richseattle56]

When diagnosing this dishwasher, I put it on Rinse Only and the circulation pump ran. Tried it on Heavy and Normal wash and pump did not work. Tried it again on Rinse Only and pump did not run. I know the pump motor and Impeller are fine. I'm thinkng bad Control Board Part # 8564543. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Edited by richseattle56, 01 January 2013 - 05:04 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... I now the pump motor and Impeller are fine.

what makes you say that ?

 

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1548518

[jumptrout]

You must test voltage at the pump to determine is the pump is getting power or not.

[richseattle56]

The dishwasher fills and then just sits there. But As stated above the motor did run and send water through the spray arms when I put it on Rince only. And also I get no buzz or anything at the motor after it fills. Nothing. I can reach back there and put my hand on the side of the motor and I feel nothing. A bad motor would have some buzz to it? Correct?

Edited by richseattle56, 01 January 2013 - 05:05 PM.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

But did you measure for voltage at the motor, as Chief jumptrout so wisely suggested?  

[richseattle56]

Is there a way to measure the voltage to the motor from the control board?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

As always, the wiring diagram on the tech sheet shows the way.  The tech sheet I have says to check for 120vac wrt to neutral, P7 (w-v), on P9 (rd-bk) on the control board with the door closed and the control set to run.  

 

If voltage to the motor is not good, verify good 120vac supply to the board at P8 and P2-6 with the door closed.  

 

Should also check for continuity from P5 to P7 with all the harness connectors removed from the control board to verify that the motor is getting a good neutral.  

[richseattle56]

Thanks, Fermented Grand Master. I will pull the dishwasher out and see if I got 120VAC at the motor. If I do the start capacitor is bad, which means I need to replace the whole motor. If I don't get 120VAC at the motor bad control Board?

Edited by richseattle56, 01 January 2013 - 08:33 PM.

[kdog]

 If I do the start capacitor is bad,

 

NOT a start capacitor - a running or phasing capactitor, unlikely to be the issue - if power is not getting there, could be control issue (or broken wire etc)

[richseattle56]

I think its the control board not sending power to motor. If not the Cap the motor is not getting power. I am going to check if power at motor. If not control board?

Edited by richseattle56, 01 January 2013 - 11:04 PM.

[richseattle56]

The number of Control Boards at local parts distributor is the control board.

[kdog]

 

http://www.repaircli...ber=KUDL01ILBS2

[richseattle56]

Went back today to fix the dishwasher. Dishwashers are an challenge to me, because of the time it may take to diagnose, taking them out, the hoses aren't long enough, the power cord isn't long enough to check things when they are hooked up. A little history: I have had a personal policy of not doing dishwasher repair just beacause they are a pain in the butt. But, this one sounded like a easy repair. Not So. I pulled the Circulation pump, noticed the connector to the start capacitor was loose, tighten it up, put a test cord on it, ran like the wind. Put the pump back in leak like a sive. so I could not test if the pump was getting 120V. Need a new pump seal. So the pump seal will take a while to get to me because it is not available locally. What a nightmare. I'm going back to fix when the new seal gets in. I'm going back to my no dishwashers policy. My ? is if I get no 120V at the Circ pump after fill Bad Control board?

Edited by richseattle56, 02 January 2013 - 07:21 PM.

[kdog]

if power is not getting there, could be control issue (or broken wire etc)

[DanInKansas]

You might be making this harder than it is. 

 

KitchenAids almost always have the tech sheet on the kick panel to help you in diagnosis.  Even if they don't, you either have 120 volts at the control board (sump and motor assy) or you don't (control board.)

 

If you have to replace the motor, I just always replace the motor and sump together, part # W10239405.  It costs $40 more but it's a higher quality repair and an easier repair -- you can charge less labor if you have a guilty conscience.  With a little jet-dry on the sump seal where it hits the frame, you should be able to replace the whole assembly without having to pull the unit out from under the cabinet. 

 

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 04 January 2013 - 04:04 PM.
Added part link to sump assembly and repair video.

[DanInKansas]

I tried the method used in this video and it drove me crazy.  What I do is shut power off off at the breaker, get the kick plate off, disconnect the drain pump (LOTS of water will get on the floor, be ready with your mini-vac), unscrew the OWI, and disconnect the motor.  Once all that is out of the way, I can get my hand around the back of the machine and pull the first restraining tab about, then the other two follow much more easily.  I can then pop the assembly out the bottom of the unit without ever moving the unit out from under the cabinet.  

 

Installation of new assembly follows the reverse, and I always start with the back clip.  This method means I don't have to risk scratching floors, or having to re-level the unit, or taking the time to disconnect the water. 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I tried the method used in this video and it drove me crazy. 

 

 

Me, too!  Sounds like you prefer the Samurai Method™:

 

[certified tech group 51]

I pull the pump / sump assy.....  ( some times ya gotta pull the D/W , but avoid it if you can )..............If you worked thru the W/P dishwasher recall with the bad motor  ( green dot )   and the heater element recall ( blue dot )........  ( heater was replaced when   the motor/sump was removed )...............You got good at reaching  that rear tab to install......( kinda like driving while blind )......