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MrDave

Microwave turntable turns when door is opened

57 posts in this topic

I actually did not change a darn thing. We have been using it (with the turntable turning when the door

is opened) and now it is acting like I stated in my previous post. I will as soon as I can, open the cover

and look for a wiring diagram. Yes, I will make sure it's unplugged when I do that. I am hoping it might be

something simple like a part replacement. I'm off work on Friday so I will be able to do it then. Please bear

with me as I trust all of you. Yes, I have a multi meter.

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The lower door switch is burned. Look at where the contacts go into the switch body. Probably find it melted. Replace the switch.

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Okay, where can I find a source for a lower door switch? And what caused it to fail?

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Try GE switch wb24x829. You should have a two terminal switch on yours which this is. Why did it fail? Like I tell my customers "you used it, it wore out." Actually therevis about 12-14 amps running through it and it gets hot and begins to melt the switch body. Good luck.

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To my dismay, I was unable to get the cover off. The torx screws on the back of the unit have

a little teat/stem in the center of the torx hole that prevent me from using any of my standard

torx drivers. I would need a torx driver with a hole in the end. The two screws in the side are

standard phillips, but that does me no good. Seems like Panasonic is making an attempt to

prevent end users from performing repairs on their own appliances. I suppose I could take

the torx driver to work and drill a small hole in the end of it so it would fit into the torx hole in

the screw. It's always something.

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... I would need a torx driver with a hole in the end.

that would be a tamper-proof security Torx bit

hard to find :whistling:

image_12443.jpg

also used on some cable TV boxes .. but I can't talk about that ... :whistling:

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I'll be damned....and there's a store about 3 miles away from me..........

(doo-dee-doo)

Thanks!

(it seems to never end)

Hah! You should hear my wife!......."Well, what about the microwave? is it fixed yet? What's the problem? How do I reheat my coffee? You said you were going to fix it!!!"

Geez......

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If you have a Harbor Freight store near-by they sale a security bit set for around $6.00 that as 5 or 6 security torx bits of different sizes and many other special security type bits.

 

The other option, (I've done this many times before I had the security bit set), just use a small screw driver and pop the little peg in the middle of the screw out.  They usually break off pretty easily.

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Okay, I watched the video on Repair Clinic on how to test the switch checking for continuity.

In laymans terms, before i depress the switch, should I see continuity? Should I see continuity

after i press the switch? Just asking because I want to definitely know if my switch has failed

or not. Basically, should I see resistance one way or the other? And which way? Geez.....

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Like I stated in my original post, I'm a machinist by trade, not an appliance repair guru, and I never

will say that I am. I'm not mechanically challenged by any means, but in an area that I am unfamiliar

with, I just need to be told or shown what to do, then all is good. So if I ask questions that to some of you

may seem a no brainer, once you show me, then I can proceed with confidence. I am very glad that i have

been getting the responses that I have seen, and I have to say....Thank you!!! Please bear with me until I fix this

damn thing. I will not give up easily. This microwave will not get the best of me. I will fix it with all your help.

Thanks.

MrDave

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... I don't have a wiring diagram, and I would not know what to check or even what wires to check. Even if I did,

... I don't think I would know what to do with the results of testing the wires.

odd, for a (free) "Merit Apprentice" that somehow passed the Merit exam ...

Could have saved a lot of time (yours and ours) if basic testing / trouble-shooting was known.

We could post the wiring diagram, but I don't think it's a good idea for a "novice" to be working on a MicroWave,

with dangerous Microwave signals present if the Door Switches aren't working correctly,

OR if they aren't wired correctly.

AND high voltages present (even when turned OFF and un-plugged)

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I know basic electricity and am familiar with a multimeter. And I do understand that high voltages

are present even when turned off and unplugged. I'm not a dummy, and I do have a lot of

common sense. I can check things with a multimeter, but there are times that the result that

I would get when testing Would lead me to...(Now what does that result lead to?) That's

the thing. And I understand what you meant about working on a microwave.

No worries.

MrDave

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Have you looked at the switch to see if it shows any sign of melting where the terminals go in?  Look closely.

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That's the first thing I will look at when I get the cover off. I might just pop those security tabs out of the torx screws

to get the cover off to check. I am growing weary of not having a microwave to use. When I get home from work every day

I'm pretty mentally beat up that all I want to do is relax a bit, eat dinner, then hit the sack. I do have a pretty good hunch that

the terminals will show signs of overheating. Also, to remove the switch, does it just pull off of the connectors, or what?

If the terminals do show signs of overheating, would it be useless to check for continuity? And if I do check it, what is the method

used to check it? What do I look for with the multimeter?

MrDave

Edited by MrDave

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I'll be damned....and there's a store about 3 miles away from me..........

(doo-dee-doo)

Thanks!

(it seems to never end)

Hah! You should hear my wife!......."Well, what about the microwave? is it fixed yet? What's the problem? How do I reheat my coffee? You said you were going to fix it!!!"

Geez......

MrDave buddy, while I can appreciate your tenacity to want to repair this, I'm gonna have to take her side here.  It's been 50 days and you haven't been able to get the cover off yet.  Happy wife, happy life.....just sayin.  Otherwise, order the Caveman switch for $2.50 and give it a shot.

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Switch just unclips from the bracket,you'll figure it out. If no signs of burning then switch is probably ok but you can check the terminals for continuity with a

Meter. Measure from the sidecterminal (common) to he one on the end. If twonterminals on the end then continuity will switch between them when depressing the plunger on the switch. When the door is clsed it pushes the plunger, this is the circuit for the cook circuit.

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Alright, I'm still bleeding from getting beat up by you guys, but no worries. I went to Harbor Freight and

picked up the security torx set. Got the cover off. No sticker with a schematic anywhere. Anyway, this thing

has two door switiches. I took the lower one off and checked it. No movement on the meter until I depressed

the little red button, then it shot over to zero. Guess that means that one is good, correct? But lo and behold,

the upper one.....The plastic wire connector had melted. These are connectors that have the bottom and side

connectors as one connector, correct? I was able to get the bottom half of the connector off of the switch, but the

side terminal still has the wire connector attached. The little red button on the switch just flops around. no spring

action like on the lower switch. Check out the pics. I had to remove that assembly from it's mounted location

to remove the burnt top switch.

 

DSCF0025

DSCF0024

DSCF0023

Edited by MrDave

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Yep, that's it. Order the switch and change the connectors.  Correct connectors available at radio shack.  You may want to use a larger wire size on the connector and splice it into the harness about three inches in. 

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So do you think it needs a door switch?

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Yep, that's it. Order the switch and change the connectors.  Correct connectors available at radio shack.  You may want to use a larger wire size on the connector and splice it into the harness about three inches in. 

Okay, sounds like a great solution. now I need to ask a few questions....

1) The connectors that you say are at Radio Shack are the double plastic connectors that push on to the switch or are they OEM and just the generic single metal ones are available?

2) Either way, two wires go to each connector. Need to have a wire hole big enough to fit both before crimping.

3) What's the best wat to splice into the wiring....a soldered connection with shrink tubing?

4) What's the best way to crimp? If it's with a crimping tool, I can get that too since I am not sure if I have one. I just might in the bowels of my tool box. (I think I do!!!)

5) If the connectors are bare metal, should I use shrink tubing to insulate them? I think I should, so as to not have any exposed live electrical surfaces exposed.

6) I think a lot of this repair is common sense, now that I have opened the unit up, would you agree?

7) What markings on the switch are important to match to the original when ordering?

8) Okay, here's a good one.....Now I am aware that things do not last forever and things wear out. Using my common sense, this is what I think happened:

       Switch started wearing out over time causing internal resistance to gradually increase. The more resistance, the more heat is produced. It finally reached

       the point of melting the internal contacts and enough heat was generated to melt the plastic around the terminal that goes into the connector, which in turn

       melted the connector. Result: Total failure of the switch. Am I kind of on the right track here? I just am asking this as I would like to know.

       Also, was I ever in danger of the unit catching fire? Or since the switch failed, it would seem to me that the electrical flow would have stopped before that

       would happen, but I could be wrong on this.

Please let me know about the markings on the switch before I order a new one. I'd like to do that soon.

 

MrDave

So do you think it needs a door switch?

Uh, lemme check........yes! :rocker:

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Join the club.

 

post-65249-0-03907700-1362408549_thumb.j

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Order the switch. Take it to radio shack and match the connector size to the terminals on the switch. Also purchase red ir blue butt connectors to splice wires and a crimp tool. Change wire to wire on the new switch. Now you will be done.

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Order the switch. Take it to radio shack and match the connector size to the terminals on the switch. Also purchase red ir blue butt connectors to splice wires and a crimp tool. Change wire to wire on the new switch. Now you will be done.

 

Okay, I can do that. now what is the best way to splice in to the wire harness? and do I put shrink tubing on the connectors?

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1) Okay, I can do that. now what is the best way to splice in to the wire harness?

and

2) do I put shrink tubing on the connectors?

 

 1) You may want to use a larger wire size on the connector and splice it into the harness about three inches in. 

2) No

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