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GE Bottom Freezer-Model#GDL20KCSBS, Defrost System Fix?


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11 replies to this topic

#1 AlexM

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 11:34 PM

This GE Bottom Freezer was not cooling in the fresh food section. When I arrived the compressor, evap fan, condenser fan was all running strong. The evaporator was froze over, so I defrosted it and the heater checked out fine, so I put a new limit on and a new thermister, put it all back together and plugged it back in, and nothing worked but the lights.  Here are some of my many questions:

 

1. I was told at one time to always change out the old style thermisters with the black end where the wires go in, is this true because I did put a new thermister on this one.?

 

2. The defrost limit that I replaced had the symetrical clip that was installed on one of the support fins for the evaporator.  I replaced the original with a limit that had the same L140-30F markings as the original, but had the clip that goes on the evaporator direct, so I did that, is that acceptable? or do I need to order the same one and install it on the support fin?

 

3. How do you get the control panel off the top of the fresh food section? I removed the light cover and two screws, then broke one of three plastic studs and then put the screws back in and left it.  What hold that all on and how do you get it removed.

 

4. When i couldnt get the unit started back up I cleaned up my tools and made a trip to the truck, 20 minutes after I plugged it in the compressor sounded like it was running but nothing else.  does it normally take this long to get the unit started again after defrosting?



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#2 AlexM

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:39 AM

Might someone have the service manual? thanks in advance.



#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:57 AM

Minimanual uploaded here ==> http://appliantology...anual-31-51651/
 

1. I was told at one time to always change out the old style thermisters with the black end where the wires go in, is this true because I did put a new thermister on this one.?


Yes, replace ALL old thermistors with the new ones.
 

2. The defrost limit that I replaced had the symetrical clip that was installed on one of the support fins for the evaporator.  I replaced the original with a limit that had the same L140-30F markings as the original, but had the clip that goes on the evaporator direct, so I did that, is that acceptable? or do I need to order the same one and install it on the support fin?


Will probably be fine. I've made many similar substitutions with no call-backs.

 

3. How do you get the control panel off the top of the fresh food section? I removed the light cover and two screws, then broke one of three plastic studs and then put the screws back in and left it.  What hold that all on and how do you get it removed.


Did you slide the control assembly forward and then out? They can feel stuck from the urethane foam insulation in the cabinet.



 

4. When i couldnt get the unit started back up I cleaned up my tools and made a trip to the truck, 20 minutes after I plugged it in the compressor sounded like it was running but nothing else.  does it normally take this long to get the unit started again after defrosting?


Try putting the muthaboard into forced defrost and see if the heating element fires up ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-the-quick-fix/



#4 AlexM

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 09:23 AM

So let me get this straight, while the refrigerator is plugged in and the evaporator is cold clip a wire from the 'Line' terminal to the 'Defr' terminal in the photo? The reason I'm scared is because I fried a board by messing around with a power cord/jumper and what not.  I was very tramatized.



#5 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 09:41 AM

Question 1.....yes.. this is a recommendation from GE but under the circumstances, testingt he original thermistor would help rule out it as the cause

Question 2...not a problem....again testing it before replacement would help your diagnosis

If your were able to rule out heater, sensor and limit, then you would know if a new board is needed. Schematics on this model is sketchy but the board should be located on the back of the fridge. It may not be necessary to access controls in ff section. If the compressor is running, your fans should be running. This should not be a user interface issue.

You may have to hold down the light switch to hear fan running with freezer drawer open. Double check your connections and test fans at the board.

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#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 11:32 AM

Just use an insulated alligator clip jumper wire when you do the defrost test and you'll be fine. You may see a little spark when you connect the second clip but that's normal. Just keep a steady hand. No worries.

#7 AlexM

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 01:48 PM

Sounds shockingly easy.



#8 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 05:16 PM

I oftened wondered if that spark would damage the board. I became a girly-man and always unplug fridge first, then plug it back in after jumping.

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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 06:06 PM

That works, too!   :dazzler:



#10 kdog

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:14 PM

 I became a girly-man

 

Always a good idea, safety first - Stayin Alive

 


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#11 Scottthewolf

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 10:08 PM

Ahnold the idiot caught cheating on his wife and even had a kid with his mistress. Great way to ruin your career in politics.  That's why he's back to being an actor again.


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#12 kdog

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 02:14 AM

Which is where he belongs anyway - look at his choice of tie colors, you have to strain to see that he's even wearing one - nothing speaks power like light yellow on white. He's in 2 movies coming out this year. Currently reading his latest book.


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