Alright, i have the light cover off but I can't figure out how to remove the control board housing. The drawing on page 32 shows release tabs but doesn't give any indication of how they actuate. Does the cover come down or go forward?
Maybe I'm just being overcautios for fear of breaking it...
Okay.... Remove top and next shelves... Get a flat blade screwdriver and you are going to have to lean backwards in the fridge. Look up at the back of the housing and you will see two slots. The clips are shaped like an upside down "L" Push the screwdriver in the slot at slightly more than a forty-five degree angle. Some force may be required. Do both sides and the housing will pivot down away from you and towards the front.
they say a picture speaks a thousand words. My pictures only speaks four: "I suck at drawing."
Edited by DurhamAppliance, 30 January 2013 - 01:13 AM.
Is there a GFI at the outlet where you plug the fridge in? How bout the breaker that the fridge is on? is it a GFI type? Is the fridge on a gfi circuit,say, behind the coffee maker per chance? nI have seen similar scenario's play out over the years. Its the first thing you want to rule out.
If no GFI problem, you could be in control board - Keypad purgatory. They may not be communicating with each other and it can be difficult to tell which one is causing the problem...could be board, ribbon seating, keypad or all three...some call it hell, but it's more like purgatory. If you got your board from repair clinic, and your old one does the same thing, send the new one back and get a keypad and make sure the ribbon is seated properly. Did we ever get an answer regarding frost pattern on your evap?
Curious how this could be a connection issue? The previous board had the same condition. How could the ribbon become unseated w/o removing the cover?
a connection issue does not necessarily mean a problem with seating. Could be a bad ribbon. Connection, in this case, means communication between the keyboard and main board ie they aint talkin wit each other like they should.
Okay....does "same problem" mean that there is no cooling or that you cannot get the user interface to work? If no cooling, we need to see a picture of your evaporator coils...you said "no frost" but that does not give us sufficient info.
Earlier, I suggested you replaced thermistors. They are cheap enough, was this done? I have experienced 2 fridges where thermistors caused the display board or access to diagnostic mode not to work. Doesn't make sense and have not had anyone with more electrical knowledge confirm this possibility. All I know is once the bad thermistors were replaced, everything worked. One was a GE and the other was a fridge with a jazz board. The only support I have on this is during Asti training the instructor in the Basic Electricity class talked about an oven model where a bad temp probe caused the display not to work. and a temp probe is nothing but a thermistor. Although when I asked him if the same thing was possible in my situations, he could not confirm it.
Why did you replace the touchpad? Or did you actually replace the jazz control board but used the wrong term in your reply?
main problem was no cooling and touchpad not responsive. initially replaced a board called the hv board but not the jazz board. then jazz board then touch pad. Im not sure if the problem is still no cooling and non responsive board.