14 replies to this topic

[RedToryTy]

To the Dojo,

 

I went out on this dryer; I measure 120VAC at each leg of the element, and it ohmed 10.1 ohms of resistance. I swapped the old element out with one I had...nothing. Where on the timer do I need to measure voltage? Experience or insight? I welcome your critical comments and snide remarks.

 

Thanks in advance,

Tyrus

[KurtiusInterupptus]

That's the same 120 on either side...need to test across both for 240. What's the status on the thermal cut out and high limit?

[RegUS_PatOff]

 ... 120VAC at each leg of the element
... and it ohmed 10.1 ohms of resistance.

1) not a normal test on a 240v appliance
2) Element is good

 

Does the Drum Light work when the Door is open ?

Is there 240v at the Dryer Power Cord Terminal Power Strip ?

if OK, then set the Temperature Switch to Air-Fluff (no heat)

Then measure for 120v from each side of the following to chassis (ground):

Cycling Thermostat Blue wire / Purple wire

Hi-Limit Thermostat Purple wire / Black wire

[RedToryTy]

Reg,

 

I discovered the door switch and light are wired incorrectly, i.e. the drum comes on when the door is closed. I will use the diagram and take care of that problem. There is 240VAC at L1 and L2 on the power cord. On Air Fluff, there is 120 VAC at Cycling/Purple and Hi-Limit/Black. Is this like the situation with the service-through-the-front WP dryers with the dryer relay; I had this problem with a couple stuck relays and had to change them. In this situation, though, I'd change the timer, correct? I see no such heater relay on the diagram.

 

Thanks in advance,

Tyrus

[RegUS_PatOff]

... On Air Fluff, there is 120 VAC at Cycling/Purple and Hi-Limit/Black.

and 120v at Cycling Blue ?
 
if OK then:
set Dryer to run High-Heat on Timed Dry
check voltage from Timer yellow to Timer red
Should be 0v
If 240v, then bad Timer
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1185662

[RedToryTy]

Misunderstood your cycling voltage check; will-do a recheck. Thanks, Reg.

[RedToryTy]

Cycling thermostat Blue to chassis--120VAC

Cycling thermostat Purple to chassis--120VAC

Hi-limit thermostat Purple to chassis--120VAC

Hi-limit thermostat Black to chassis--120VAC

 

Red to Yellow on Timer--0VAC.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Red to Yellow on Timer--0VAC.

That's with the Dryer set to run High-Heat on Timed Dry ?
 
OK, with the same setting...
on the 3-position heat switch:
measure voltage from Red wire to Blue wire
0v = OK
240v - bad Switch
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1185612

[RedToryTy]

Red to Blue--0VAC

Red to White--122VAC

Red to  Orange--0VAC

[RegUS_PatOff]

and the last (2) of your posts were with the Dryer running on High-Heat on Timed Dry ?

[KurtiusInterupptus]

i keep hearing the Beatles...  " I wanna hold your hand ...i wanna hold your hand..."

Edited by KurtiusInterupptus, 08 January 2013 - 04:23 PM.

[RedToryTy]

AUTOMATIC High Heat--no timed High Heat. This dryer feels like Foreigner's, "Feels Like the First Time," Kurtius; thanks for the grief, bro.

[RegUS_PatOff]

once more :

Air-Dry:

3 way Temperature switch

red wire to chassis (ground) = 120v

blue wire to chassis (ground) = 120v

 

Cycling Switch blue to purple = 0v

 

High Heat

3 way switch

red to blue = 0 v

[RedToryTy]

What I got

 

Air-Dry:

3 way Temperature switch

red wire to chassis (ground) = 123VAC

blue wire to chassis (ground) = 123VAC

 

Cycling Switch blue to purple = 0v

 

Auto Dry, High Heat

3 way switch "REGULAR," red to blue = 0VAC

Cycling Switch blue to purple = 0VAC

 

So, because the timer and thermostats are functioning okay, don't I change the heat selector?

[RegUS_PatOff]

 

could be bad (weak) Motor Switch contacts ....

 

Auto Dry, High Heat

Timer Yellow wire to Timer Red wire = 0v (that was done)

 

3-way Switch Red to Blue = 0v (that was done)

 

Cycling Thermostat Blue to Purple = 0v (that was done)

 

Hi-Limit Black to Purple = 0v

 

Drum Motor Black to Blue = 0v

 

Heater Black to Black = 240v