Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn how to troubleshoot like a Master Samurai Tech...

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
Marcplante

kenmore 153.32053 Electric Heater not enough hot water

8 posts in this topic

We have had a Kenmore electric hot water heater for about 8 yrs.  I have replaced both thermostats, but not done anything with the coils.  This afternoon my called to tell me that both kids ran out of their showers complaining of no not water (They're 5 and 7 so not taking the typical teenage showers yet,

 

It's a 50 gal heater, and we usually give them both baths, so I don't know that water volume should be an issue.  

 

When I came home and checked the hot water this evening, It was fine.  I was thinking that it needed thermostats again, but now that the water is hot again, I'm wondering.  

 

Is there any realistic cause of temporary hot water shortage? single coil going bad?

 

I checked the breaker reset button on the upper thermostat and it did not click when I pressed it, nor I hear any obvious churning that usually accompanies coils jumping to life, though there is hot water in the tank. 

 

Thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

one of the Heater Elements could be bad

(could be tested with an OHM meter without removing)

one Element would take twice as long to heat the water.

 

OR the "sacificial anode" (dip tube) may be eroded away ..

(incoming cold water doesn't go to the bottom of the tank..

stays near the top of the tank and goes straight to the "hot" water output.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the "sacificial anode" (dip tube) may be eroded away ..

(incoming cold water doesn't go to the bottom of the tank..

stays near the top of the tank and goes straight to the "hot" water output.)

 

the anode and dip tube are not the same thing

 

the anode rod is a solid rod that runs down through the water from the top ,

 

the dip tube is a hollow tube that goes from the water input down through the water to the bottom of the tank , most of the time made of plastic and never goes bad

 

all that said , i have no clue what is wrong here .

 

might have a sticky thermostat ?

a slighty shorted to ground element (through the water) ?

 

a ohm meter and a clamp on amp meter should get to the bottom of it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... the anode and dip tube are not the same thing

I believe on some brands, they are

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it must be something new , i have cut up my share of water heater tanks over the years and never seen an anode dip tube combo in my life

 

there's always a first

 

i saw my first plastic water heater only 6 months ago , what a weird thing that is

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll check the coils with an ohm meter.  Might be a sticky thermostat, but last time it manifested itself in a pretty decisive failure.  Thanks for the insights

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   Check bottom element, it ends up operating  more than the top element...... ( not by design )............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now