16 replies to this topic

[Patricio]

This model Number does not seem to exist, yet it is posted on fridge.   Trouble is it is stuck on defrost cycle.  Several model numbers with it ending in 0, 1, 2, 3, etc.  all having  defrost part # 482493.   Part comes with external wire to instal on a diferent pin number according to tech sheet wiring schematic.  To be wired either version 1 or versiom 2.  Question is does it need to be wired in at all for it to work.  Frige is a simple plain jane model with only a themostat setting, no damper setting.  Original timer is regular 4 pin timer.   Any insight?

[vee8power]

That wire supplies power to the timer motor; yes, it needs to be wired in. It is attached to one of the pins. The part instructions indicate only two possible pins. If you don't have a schematic or are unclear, you could dis-assemble the old timer(hammer) and look at which pins the little motor inside is wired to. One side will be neutral, the pin on the end, away from the others.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

For continuous run, the black jumper should get connected to timer pin 1 (the orange wire).  This supplies power to the timer when the defrost thermostat is closed (which should be most of the time).  

 

This raises the issue of the timer stalling while in defrost cycle.  If the defrost thermostat opened, it would kill power to the defrost timer and stop the clock.  When you arrive on the call and manually advance the defrost timer and the unit starts working, you may immediately assume the defrost timer is bad.  But if all you did was to replace the timer, you'd be back in a week for a call back. Just something to be aware of.  

 

Given the low cost of each part and the high failure rate of defrost thermostats, my SOP is to replace BOTH the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat and then you can guarantee the whole defrost system for a year.  My reasoning is that, from a customer's standpoint, if you're there for a no-defrost complain and you replace a bad defrost thermostat, but then 6 months later the defrost timer fails resulting in the same symptom, it's hard to explain that to most people.  And I think most people would prefer a more reliable repair in their fridge and avoid food spoilage and the inconvenience and expense of another repair.  

[RegUS_PatOff]

ET8GHMXLQ02

Repair Part List - 8198689.pdf

 

Wiring Sheet - 2225759.pdf

 

installation instructions for 482493 universal Defrost Timer

482494.pdf (confusing)

 

Looking at your wiring sheets, it shows you have a

“Version 2” Cumulative compressor run application

which would be Figure 3

and Procedure 3

Back Timer Motor wire connects to Pin 1

[RegUS_PatOff]

... For continuous run, the black jumper should get connected to timer pin 1 (the orange wire).  

... This supplies power to the timer when the defrost thermostat is closed (which should be most of the time).

... This supplies power to the timer when the Cold Control thermostat is closed

[Patricio]

For continuous run, the black jumper should get connected to timer pin 1 (the orange wire).  This supplies power to the timer when the defrost thermostat is closed (which should be most of the time).  

 

This raises the issue of the timer stalling while in defrost cycle.  If the defrost thermostat opened, it would kill power to the defrost timer and stop the clock.  When you arrive on the call and manually advance the defrost timer and the unit starts working, you may immediately assume the defrost timer is bad.  But if all you did was to replace the timer, you'd be back in a week for a call back. Just something to be aware of.  

 

Given the low cost of each part and the high failure rate of defrost thermostats, my SOP is to replace BOTH the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat and then you can guarantee the whole defrost system for a year.  My reasoning is that, from a customer's standpoint, if you're there for a no-defrost complain and you replace a bad defrost thermostat, but then 6 months later the defrost timer fails resulting in the same symptom, it's hard to explain that to most people.  And I think most people would prefer a more reliable repair in their fridge and avoid food spoilage and the inconvenience and expense of another repair.  

 

ET8GHMXLQ02

Repair Part List - 8198689.pdf

 

Wiring Sheet - 2225759.pdf

 

installation instructions for 482493 universal Defrost Timer

482494.pdf (confusing)

 

Looking at your wiring sheets, it shows you have a

“Version 2” Cumulative compressor run application

which would be Figure 3

and Procedure 3

Back Timer Motor wire connects to Pin 1

   Very confusing,  Why don't they replace with original timer did not have auxillary wire.

 

Original complaint was compressor was cutting out & they would wiggle thermosat to get it to run again overa period of several months.   Then it just would not work anymore.  When I arrived being thourough I was going to check relay, timer, etc.   I found timer stuck in defrost.  kicked out of defrost unit came alive,  tried to get therm to short out if it was part of the problem also.  Had normal frosting & unit was cooling.  Left to get timer (did not have one with me)   came back that evening & installed without installing black timer wire.   Kicked new timer In to run mode.  Posted my question & meanwhile over night unit stopped cooling.

 

Another call next afternoon, unit was off.  I opened door unit kicked in, both fans running but compressor was not getting warm nor freezer romoving warmth.

 

Fiddled with wires just poking & diagnozing?  Installed black timer wire to timer pin #1.  Notice compressor started getting warm, cool air in freezer.  evaporator startd frosting normally.  Put unit back together unit seems to be cooling correctly.  Temp of air being fanned out freezer vent down to 29, air coming down refridgerator damper tube 36.  Damper is not adjustable.  Instructed customer to call in morning whetther unit is working or not.   went home 9PM & pondered  .  No call this morning  Assuming unit is OK, or customer is pissed. 

 

Update any comment?   Patricio

[RegUS_PatOff]

... cutting out & they would wiggle thermosat to get it to run
... Left to get timer ... installed without installing black timer wire. 
... meanwhile over night unit stopped cooling.
...  I opened door unit kicked in, both fans running but compressor was not getting warm nor freezer romoving warmth.

1) bad Cold Control

2) Defrost Timer won't run without black Motor wire connected

3) see #1

4) see # 1 (did you wait long enough to see if Compressor was cooling ?)

 

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=456000

 

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

... This supplies power to the timer when the Cold Control thermostat is closed

 

Yes, good catch.  

 

Had a case of Cranial Rectitis.  Feeling better now.  

 

[Patricio]

 Day After.   Refrigerator is running & cooling fine as of now,   As I was fooling with it yesterday I was unplugging & plugging connections.  must of had a open connection or something.   called customer around noon...they just as happy as can be  ..want me to come back to work on a freezer that has a drain problem...Going to put a good word or two about me to their friends...Liked my service and friendly disposition...Word of mouth gotta love it

[RegUS_PatOff]

...  must of had a open connection or something.  

OR maybe a bad Cold Control 

[Patricio]

The thought crossed my mind on more than one occasion.   Backing up to complaint.  Arrive at home.  refer in garage  dead...  mess with cold control  on-off-on- off slap it around still dead... go to compressor to check relay...can't get cover off compressor relay...back up to cold control ..bright thought...rotate defrost timer...Whola...timer clicks - compressor & fans kick in.   Take freezer apart to see if evaporator frosts which it does.   Play with control again  works.   Go to do other jobs.  pick up defrost timer...return & install timer  check temps, freezer 25 fridge 45...mess with control cause unit did not energize...turn timer clock unit kicks in...mess with cold control again...almost 9pm...go home  And this is where this post begins...

 

But I am prepared for replaceing the cold control if I get the call...Have the part number, thanks to you Reg  

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Arrive at home.  refer in garage  dead...  mess with cold control  on-off-on- off slap it around still dead...

...rotate defrost timer...Whola...timer clicks - compressor & fans kick in.  

could have just been in a 25 minute Defrost Cycle ...

[Budget Appliance Repair]

I can almost guarantee that you're going to be hearing back from them.

 

From everything you have described it's a bad cold control.  The defrost timer can't go into a defrost unless the unit is running/cold control is calling for cooling, (the defrost timer only runs when the cold control contacts are closed).

 

Once it goes into defrost the cold control fails open, (bad contact points can't carry the defrost load), and the defrost timer will quit running so it will never come out of defrost.

[Patricio]

I havealready put  the cold control on order expecting it to go out.  What gets me is that I can't get it to hiccup while fooling with it.  Yet no call backs so far.    None the less learning experiance to become better at this trade.   Thanks everyone.   If & when it does get replaced I will post back here an update...unless it happens a year from now,then the warranty will expire.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Once it goes into defrost the cold control fails open ... and the defrost timer will quit running so it will never come out of defrost.

although, if the Cold Control "opens", that also opens power to the Defrost circuit.

[Patricio]

I can almost guarantee that you're going to be hearing back from them.

 

From everything you have described it's a bad cold control.  The defrost timer can't go into a defrost unless the unit is running/cold control is calling for cooling, (the defrost timer only runs when the cold control contacts are closed).

 

Once it goes into defrost the cold control fails open, (bad contact points can't carry the defrost load), and the defrost timer will quit running so it will never come out of defrost.

 

 

although, if the Cold Control "opens", that also opens power to the Defrost circuit.

What I am hearing is that I 'kicked' this call.   Your only as good as your last call..That applies in Sports Officiating...I call the customer & explain that refer will probably act up & I will replace control at no charge.   At least the service is great.    Again thanks for the feedback.

[Patricio]

I can almost guarantee that you're going to be hearing back from them.

 

From everything you have described it's a bad cold control.  The defrost timer can't go into a defrost unless the unit is running/cold control is calling for cooling, (the defrost timer only runs when the cold control contacts are closed).

 

Once it goes into defrost the cold control fails open, (bad contact points can't carry the defrost load), and the defrost timer will quit running so it will never come out of defrost.

 

Update:   Called customer today for follow up call.   Unit running fine, no problems, no need for new cold control, his words.   South Texas coastal air does funny things to electronics & wiring.