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DerekCutler

Troubleshooting Help with Fridgidaire Front Load Washer

12 posts in this topic

FTF530FS0 

 

Hello All,

I have a Fridgedaire front load washing machine model #FTF530FS0 . The machine will not go into high spin with clothes in the washing machine. From the information that I have found this most likely caused by a faulty door latch mechanism. I measured the resistance and it was 966ohms on the 2 male pins on the bottom. I was going to buy a new one but then found out i couldn't return it if it didn't fix my problem. While I was at the parts store I measured the resistance of a new latch and it was 1640ohms. So, this is probably the issue. I just wanted to check the speed control module and the motor before i go through the trouble of ordering the latch and find out that it wasn't the issue. Can anyone offer me some trouble shooting tips to determine if these parts are ok. I really don't like doing the parts replacement method of trouble shooting problems so i am looking for some more technical checks that i can preform. Thanks.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... I measured the resistance and it was 966ohms 

... I was going to buy a new one but then found out i couldn't return it if it didn't fix my problem.

1) not a valid test

2) any part purchased from RepairClinic can be returned for a refund (less shipping)

including installed electrical parts

 

While the Door is locked in the Spin Cycle,

is the Door really locked ?

If so, then during Spin, un-plug Washer from Wall Outlet,

can you then open the Door right away ? (bad Door Lock Assembly)

OR only after a few minutes ? (good Door Lock)

]http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1531974

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That is good information I will test that out when I get home tonight. I did find that Repair Clinic would allow me to return the part, I just wanted to check the speed control module and the motor before I placed my order. It didn't make much sense to order the door latch, and then find out the problem wasn't fixed then order the next part. The other problem was that I didn't want to order all 3 parts if I didn't need to, as the total would be 500-600$ tied up for up to a month plus the shipping costs would be that much more expensive due to the weight and size of the other components. There must be a way to test that the speed control is working ok, and the motor is working properly? I should have added in my original post that when the washing machine is in the final spin cycle it does spin, but not at high speed. It acts more like it is in the wash cycle (ie- starts to ramp up and then stops and starts going in the other direction). I am pretty handy and do quite a bit of electrical testing at work so I am sure that if there is a process to confirm the operation of these components I will have no problem checking them out. Thanks. 

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...  when the washing machine is in the final spin cycle it does spin, but not at high speed.

... It acts more like it is in the wash cycle (ie- starts to ramp up and then stops and starts going in the other direction).

classic Door Lock Assembly problem

(the internal "wax motor" could be replaced for less than $20)

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Thank You, I will order the part today. I appreciate the help.

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That's a excellent thread, thank you so much. I will check that wax motor when I get home and maybe that's all I will need to replace. Since, you seem to know about these washers I have another question. Before the spin cycle broke the washing machine made a loud bang and then seemed to be off balance and had excessive vibrations. I am assuming that one of the shock's let go, the top springs and counter weight all seem tight and in good shape. If one of the shocks broke and the drum dropped that would probably have damaged the door switch so it all seems to be adding up. I checked that the machine is level so besides the top springs, counter weight and shocks is there anything else that could affect the balance of the washer? Also, if the shock let go and the drum dropped at all is there any chance that something could have got bent where the pulley connects to the drum? (By dropped I don't mean that it fell to the floor but I would assume that it could fall a 1/2" or so)   

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STOP!!!! Don't buy any parts yet!!!!

 

The loud bang you heard was most likely the tub spider support assembly breaking while in a high speed spin.

 

If this is what has happened it's most likely not going to be worth repairing.

 

The load bang along with the then excessive vibration is all signs of the spider support breaking.  Now the front of the tub could very well be rubbing against the front boot area which will cause a drag when it is trying to ramp up to spin speed so it will think it's out of balance and keep trying to redistribute the load and can never come up to high speed spin now.

 

Look closely around the front of the stainless spin basket all the way around the boot and see if you see any rub marks.

 

Also turn the inner stainless basket so the "Y" in the back has an arm pointing up and see if you can flew just the basket up/down.  Do this with each of the 3 legs of the "Y" at the top, must likely you're going to find one that flexes which will be the one that broke.

 

Depending on how badly it broke you might even find a big chunk of the rear tub shell blown out in the rear.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair

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The Samurai Method for Assessing Drum Support and Bearing Integrity ™:

 

http://youtu.be/OThhUNI0oL8

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Thanks everyone, I re-installed the old door switch and it ran in high speed but did not turn right. The rear spider gear is definitely gone, it makes a noise like a shot bearing and is way out of wack. No since replacing this as it is worth half the price of a new washer. I appreciate all the help.

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Yep, sho nuff sucks.  But domo for the update!  

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