Glad that this was resolved but, for the benefit of anyone who reads this because they're in a similar situation, I'll try to express the same points as above a little more clearly. Note, I understood the replies and yes, they're absolutely correct. However, they might have been a little hard to understand for someone unfamiliar with GWL designs.
The first thing to understand is that the tub you put clothes in will float when the washer fills with water. The center agitator is always connected to the motor, the basket your clothes go in is NOT connected once it floats. The agitator is tied to the middle of the motor shaft and it should always be able to turn freely by hand in both directions anytime there is no power to the motor.
When the water drains, the basket drops down onto a plastic gear. This is what allows the basket to be spun by the motor. If that gear doesn't mesh properly when the water is drained you have a gear that won't "engage"... and so you get the fault code 40, "Bowl Disengage Fault". Why they call it a disengage fault for a gear that fails to engage is beyond me, but that's the way it is.
Odds are that something got under the inner tub and that's why it can't come down. In your case the coupling broke but most of the time it's just a case of something that doesn't belong getting in there.
The process of getting in there is the same if you need to get junk out from under the tub, replace the coupling, replace the lip seal or clear a bra wire out because it's stuck in the drain hole and catching other debris, fouling the pump.
For those who don't know how to get access for this I'll go through the process (from memory) used on a GWL15-US. Every machine from 8 thru 16 should be pretty similar. I'm doing this from memory so if things aren't precisely as I describe them then just look around and you should be able to figure things out fairly easily:
Pull the lid off. This is easy, just raise the lid all the way up, grab it by both sides and pull straight up with a little wiggle. Done.
Now to raise the rest of the top. Use a small screwdriver to pry up the two rubber half circle pieces that are about 8" in from each of the front corners. Now you see a phillips screw in each side. Pull them and raise the whole top... carefully! Those rear attachments have a bad habit of slipping out of their slots and you really, really don't want to drop that cabinet top and rip out wires. This would be bad. Make sure that you lean the top against the wall in a way that won't let those bottom tabs slip out of their slots while you do your other work.
Look at the top of the tub. See that round thing on top? It has little clips all the way around. Use one hand to push down on the ring directly over a clip and then use the fingers of the other hand to pull the plastic hook thingy out off the tab. repeat for all the clips all the way around. Now be nice to the rubber tube that's sitting around 2:00 on that ring as you unhook it so it's no longer attached to the ring. Now set the ring off to the side.
Yank the top cup off the agitator by leaning it to one side as you pull up. Now reach a skinny arm way, way down in there and grab the plastic wing nut. If you don't have a skinny arm then find some kid and give him or her a couple bucks. Hold the agitator with your other hand and undo the nut. Then the whole agitator will pull up and out. Set it aside too.
Now you have access. Undo the screws around the shaft that hold the funny looking yellowish plastic piece down. Please don't loose the screws, this would also be bad. Set that aside too.
At this point you should be able to lift the inner tub out but remember I'm doing this from memory.
DANGER, WARNING... When you lift the tub you MUST be extremely careful. All those little holes in the side of the tub were punched from inside out and the sharp metal edges are all sticking out like a porcupine covered in razor blades. You have been warned.
Now that you have the tub out, and have stopped any severe bleeding, you should be able to see the gear and the bottom of the outer tub. If you need access to the lip seal then slide the gear off the shaft. Otherwise look around for junk that doesn't belong. If you're clearing the pump then the opening for that is at the 4:00 position in the bottom of the outer tub.
To reassemble just reverse the process and, as DADoESTX said, be careful to not strip out any screws. It's not just the coupler ones that can be stripped... hamfisted techs the world over have stripped out those two phillips screws that hold down the top more times than you can imagine.
Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar, 13 March 2013 - 11:42 AM.