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Fisher Paykel GWL11


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15 replies to this topic

#1 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 11:46 AM

I have a FP GWL 11 washer. I will describe the problem as best I can...

 

When the washer gets to the rinse cycle, the agitator shifts a few inches back and forth repeatedly and eventually it begines beeping at me. The clothing is very wet, but it appears the washer is draining. If I go directly to spin, it will not spin, but does the same thisng, agitator shift back and forth about and inch in each direction. I did a diagnositc and all lights were off - no codes. Any ideas???

 

Thanks!



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#2 nickfixit

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:01 PM

Remove the agitator and pull the basket. Look for foriegn objects, coins, bra wires, infant socks, ect...


" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#3 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:06 PM

Additional info...

 

In the wash cycle, the agitator appears to run normally. Then it starts the rinse cycle. After it drains all the water, it stops and gives a repeating series of 5 ( I think) fast beeps, the first rinse light is flashing orange, the second rinse light is steady on orange and the spin light is on steady red.



When it first happened, I did discover that a fabric belt form my robe had gotten tangled under the agitator and I removed it. Could there be more items. As I said, when I just ran it again ( empty), during the wash cycle, the agitator appears to run normally. Thanks!



When I hit power off while beeping, the rinse lights and spin light stated on, all three flashing.



#4 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:10 PM

Also, with the machine off, I can rotate the agitator freely in both directions...



#5 DADoESTX

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:40 PM

The agitator and basket run on the same single motor shaft.  The agitator is locked to the shaft with a wingnut.  The basket sits on a drive cog that is also locked to the motor shaft.

 

When water fills into the tub, a dome molded into the basket base captures air and the basket floats upward about 3/8" to disengage from the drive cog.  The agitator then (being locked to the shaft) can oscillate for washing while the basket is disengaged and free-spins.

 

The basket settles back down to engage the drive cog for spin when the water drains.

 

The agitator and basket should turn together if either the basket or agitator is rotated when the tub is empty of water.  If the agitator can turn separately, then the basket is not engaged to the drive cog (and the machine can't spin), due to debris, scum, lint, mineral deposits, etc. on the cog or drive shaft.



#6 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:48 PM

Yes, the basket and agitator rotate free of one another ( ie, I can rotate basket and agitator is stationary and vis-a-versa). Can you provide instructions or link to instructions on how to access and clean? My husband is quite capable once we know the procedure. I just do all the research ;)



#7 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 01:32 PM

OK, I ran it again. During the rinse cycle, before it failed, I shut it off and ran a diagnostic. Got the third and fifth light on for a diagnostic code of 40. this is a Bowl Disengage Fault.

 

It says to check for objects preventing the clutch for engaging or excessive suds. I can find neither.

 

Second, it says if empty of water, which it is, to carry out clutch disassembly procedure and check spline drive.

 

Last, check pressure tube has not come off and not kinked/blocked.

 

If not all of that, then the motor control module......

 

Suggestions...



#8 DADoESTX

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 01:59 PM

You need to disassemble the machine ... raise the top, remove the tub cover, remove the agitator, then the basket (bowl), and examine the drive shaft and drive cog/clutch for cleanliness.



#9 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 02:44 PM

Understood. I did remove the agitator so far. It appears that the spline shaft is part of the problem. The cover has broken where the screws fasten.

 

Removed the basket. Drive shaft and cogs look ok. Plastic on bottom of basket and bowl shows significant rubbing/wearing.



#10 DADoESTX

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:49 PM

Easy fix to replace the hub cover.  DO NOT overtighten the screws.

 

If by chance the screw holes have stripped-out, there should be an alternate set of mounting holes in the basket base that can be used for the hub cover if the first set of holes strip-out.  Otherwise, the fix would be to replace the basket.

 

BTW, just to advise in case you aren't aware ... if you hear water sloshing inside the basket, *don't* try to drain it ... there are water-filled balance rings at top and bottom.  Drilling holes to drain them will cause the machine to malfunction, the basket must be within a specific range of weight, which includes the balance ring fluid.



#11 kdog

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 08:46 PM

Manuals can be found here: http://appliantology...l-gwl11-washer/


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#12 J5

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 11:04 PM

Understood. I did remove the agitator so far. It appears that the spline shaft is part of the problem. The cover has broken where the screws fasten.

 

Removed the basket. Drive shaft and cogs look ok. Plastic on bottom of basket and bowl shows significant rubbing/wearing.

 

replacethe spline drive

 

i bet you soak or use nappy soaker in the machine ??



#13 LauraC

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 11:18 PM

Thanks!! Screw holes are not stripped. Very seldom use soak cycle - just when I want to bleach some really dirty whites.

 

I assume by ya'll's answers, that you believe the problem to be the plastic cover that fits over the Spline Shaft? I will order in the am and replace. Worth the $30 to try. It is obvious that the broken hub was allowing the agitator to rotate free of the basket. Can I assume that once the basket and agitator are connected again, that I should get a proper spin cycle?

 

Will update with the results....



#14 J5

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 03:50 AM

the problem you have is the spline drive is not locking in together with the basket

 

part you require 479318P

 

i find it odd that you have a problem with it , i would change the soap you are using as only times i have

had to replace them which is about 3 times in 5 years is from soaking with nappy cleaner



#15 LauraC

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:47 AM

Well, after looking at the prices of new washers.......

 

I ordered the hub kit part yesterday and overnighted it. Installed it and the washer works beatifully!! It was obvious when comparing the two, that the old white inner cog that slips over the spline shaft was seriously worn ( 7.5 years old). So, for $64, part and overnight shipping, I am once again doing laundry - Oh Joy!

 

Not sure what you mean by soaking with nappy cleaner??

 

Thanks for ya'lls help!



#16 Vets Appliance

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 11:41 AM

Glad that this was resolved but, for the benefit of anyone who reads this because they're in a similar situation, I'll try to express the same points as above a little more clearly. Note, I understood the replies and yes, they're absolutely correct. However, they might have been a little hard to understand for someone unfamiliar with GWL designs.

 

The first thing to understand is that the tub you put clothes in will float when the washer fills with water. The center agitator is always connected to the motor, the basket your clothes go in is NOT connected once it floats. The agitator is tied to the middle of the motor shaft and it should always be able to turn freely by hand in both directions anytime there is no power to the motor.

 

When the water drains, the basket drops down onto a plastic gear. This is what allows the basket to be spun by the motor. If that gear doesn't mesh properly when the water is drained you have a gear that won't "engage"... and so you get the fault code 40, "Bowl Disengage Fault". Why they call it a disengage fault for a gear that fails to engage is beyond me, but that's the way it is.

 

Odds are that something got under the inner tub and that's why it can't come down. In your case the coupling broke but most of the time it's just a case of something that doesn't belong getting in there.

 

The process of getting in there is the same if you need to get junk out from under the tub, replace the coupling, replace the lip seal or clear a bra wire out because it's stuck in the drain hole and catching other debris, fouling the pump.

 

For those who don't know how to get access for this I'll go through the process (from memory) used on a GWL15-US. Every machine from 8 thru 16 should be pretty similar. I'm doing this from memory so if things aren't precisely as I describe them then just look around and you should be able to figure things out fairly easily:

 

Pull the lid off. This is easy, just raise the lid all the way up, grab it by both sides and pull straight up with a little wiggle. Done.

 

Now to raise the rest of the top. Use a small screwdriver to pry up the two rubber half circle pieces that are about 8" in from each of the front corners. Now you see a phillips screw in each side. Pull them and raise the whole top... carefully! Those rear attachments have a bad habit of slipping out of their slots and you really, really don't want to drop that cabinet top and rip out wires. This would be bad. Make sure that you lean the top against the wall in a way that won't let those bottom tabs slip out of their slots while you do your other work.

 

Look at the top of the tub. See that round thing on top? It has little clips all the way around. Use one hand to push down on the ring directly over a clip and then use the fingers of the other hand to pull the plastic hook thingy out off the tab. repeat for all the clips all the way around. Now be nice to the rubber tube that's sitting around 2:00 on that ring as you unhook it so it's no longer attached to the ring. Now set the ring off to the side.

 

Yank the top cup off the agitator by leaning it to one side as you pull up. Now reach a skinny arm way, way down in there and grab the plastic wing nut. If you don't have a skinny arm then find some kid and give him or her a couple bucks. Hold the agitator with your other hand and undo the nut. Then the whole agitator will pull up and out. Set it aside too.

 

Now you have access. Undo the screws around the shaft that hold the funny looking yellowish plastic piece down. Please don't loose the screws, this would also be bad. Set that aside too.

 

At this point you should be able to lift the inner tub out but remember I'm doing this from memory.

 

DANGER, WARNING... When you lift the tub you MUST be extremely careful. All those little holes in the side of the tub were punched from inside out and the sharp metal edges are all sticking out like a porcupine covered in razor blades. You have been warned.

 

Now that you have the tub out, and have stopped any severe bleeding, you should be able to see the gear and the bottom of the outer tub. If you need access to the lip seal then slide the gear off the shaft. Otherwise look around for junk that doesn't belong. If you're clearing the pump then the opening for that is at the 4:00 position in the bottom of the outer tub.

 

To reassemble just reverse the process and, as DADoESTX said, be careful to not strip out any screws. It's not just the coupler ones that can be stripped... hamfisted techs the world over have stripped out those two phillips screws that hold down the top more times than you can imagine.


Edited by ScottsApplianceRepar, 13 March 2013 - 11:42 AM.

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Joe Customer: "Because we have to pay you to leave."




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