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LG Center Burners


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12 replies to this topic

#1 dan-c

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 12:25 PM

Is it advisable by you learn'ed ones to replace the center burner orifice on my LG stove (and what general size)? It simply does not get hot enough to cook/sear properly on. If I place the griddle to one side or the other I get enough heat to cook steaks or whatever but not the center burner (which I 'thought' was its purpose).

Thanks!



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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 04:43 PM

Model  number?

 

Usually, the metering hoods can be removed and cleaned.  



#3 dan-c

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:31 PM

Model  number?

 

Usually, the metering hoods can be removed and cleaned.  

It's an LG LRG3091ST only about 6 months old and it's all clean. The brass orifice looks small compared to all the other burners except the tiny warming burner.

 

My question is can I replace the center one with an orifice that passes more gas :)

 

The burner covers (metering hoods?) seem to all have the same size holes too



#4 john63

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 06:53 PM

<<<It's an LG LRG3091ST>>>

 

******************

 

A General Electric-built range---sold with the LG logo.

 

Remove the center burner knob

 

With a small/bright flashlight---look into the burner valve *shaft* (that the knob attaches to)

 

You'll see a tiny screw inside the burner valve shaft

 

Find a screwdriver small/long enough to turn the flame-size-adjustment-screw *counterclockwise*---while the burner flame is on.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 07:59 PM

I believe that the screw inside the knob shaft is for adjusting the low simmer setting....
It wont have any effect on the high setting.

You didnt mention what gas you are on. Has this range been converted?
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#6 john63

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:14 PM

<<<I believe that the screw inside the knob shaft is for adjusting the low simmer setting>>>

 

*******************

 

Correct.

 

********************

 

<<<It wont have any effect on the high setting.>>>

 

********************

 

It does---but not much.

 

Many owners of LG gas ranges often ask if the flame size can be made "larger".

 



 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:20 PM

I guess your right John... I certainly get a lot more complaints about "can't simmer" than "not big enuff"...

Still, might be good to see if the orifice is the correct size...
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#8 john63

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Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:44 PM

<<<Still, might be good to see if the orifice is the correct size...>>>

 

*******************

 

I agree...

 

Orifice size is determined by a letter stamped onto the orifice:

 

NATURAL GAS

 

LF:  C

LR:  D

RR:  G

RF:  H

CTR:  D

BROIL:  A

BAKE:  B

 

LP GAS

 

LF:  L

LR:  M

RR:  P

RF:  Q

CTR:  M

BROIL:  D

BAKE:  F


 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 dan-c

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 09:36 AM

It is and has always been natural gas. The spec's say the center burner is good for 9100 BTU while the LF is 12000 and the RF is 17000. I think 17000 is too much, I guess I'll change the orifice to the 12000 and hope for the best.

 

Since it's GE made (ugh, had I known that :unsure: ) I suppose the GE spud nut orifices will work?



#10 certified tech group 51

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 11:12 AM

Change which orifice??..........The   9100 BTUH ??.........or the 17000 BTUH ??..........The gas valve may not be correct for the replaced orifice..............You are not going to change a part that well  paid, highly trained  engineers have perfected for you, are you????



#11 dan-c

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 12:25 PM

Change which orifice??..........The   9100 BTUH ??.........or the 17000 BTUH ??..........The gas valve may not be correct for the replaced orifice..............You are not going to change a part that well  paid, highly trained  engineers have perfected for you, are you????

 

Welll, ummm, err, I was going to change the center burner 9100 to a 12000. If it's not as simple a matter of replacing ill or low performance designed motorcycle or auto parts that well paid, highly trained engineers developed I guess not.

 

If I want more BTUH to make my cast iron center burner griddle more useful than a warming rack without causing harm, why yes, yes I am :wink:

 

Gas valve? Dang, always a curveball


Edited by dan-c, 15 January 2013 - 12:26 PM.


#12 kdog

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 01:59 AM

Not to mention potential risks when modifying operation design


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#13 jb8103

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 05:41 AM

The gas valve should be delivering X cu. ft. of gas at Y pressure. The larger the jet, the faster the the stove goes.

 

Err, wait a minute - it's early...

 

Anyway it will deliver 9k BTU here from this orifice and/or 17k BTU there from that orifice and so on up to the full volume capacity of the valve. One cu.ft. of natural gas provides about 1000 BTU.

 

But really there are two valves involved here, the supply valve and the control valve. Does the control valve for the center burner have the capacity to go full tilt flamethrower?


Edited by jb8103, 16 January 2013 - 06:01 AM.

First, do no harm.






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