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Samsung Dryer DV218: Disconnect Wiring terminals?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 kkreppein

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 06:06 PM

I've come so far, but in following instructions to test the heating element, I am trying to remove it and my next step says to disconnect the wiring terminals from the Heater Assembly.  I am not having any luck figuring out how I do this.  There are this lovely flat connected wires to the outside of the Assembly.  Do I pull them off?  They seem stuck.  Or do I unscrew things?

 

If you can't tell, its my first foray into fixing anything electrically related.  Looks like this, and I'm stumped and don't want to break anything.  


Thanks,  

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#2 sh2sh2

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 06:18 PM

they just pull off, they may be hard to come off though



#3 kkreppein

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 06:33 PM

Thanks for you quick response.  So they just slide off, still all on the outside of the assembly?  And Is there any trick to it or to getting them back on afterwards, or important details I should pay attention to?  

 

Thanks, 



#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 06:47 PM

If you're measuring resistance OHMs

with the Dryer Power removed,

no need to disconnect anything ..

should read less that 20 OHMs


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#5 SANTA

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 12:36 AM

  The easiest way to remove those tight connectors is to place a flat blade screwdriver in the space between the end of the connector and the thermostat and give it a twist. That will loosen the connector. I hope that makes sense.



#6 nickfixit

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 06:16 AM

On this the heater its about 10 ohms, the thermostat and thermal cut-off should read close to 0 ohms or infinite ohms if failed, or open. You can take the housing apart and inspect the element. Look for breaks in the coil, and any contact between the coil and it's frame.

 

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#7 kkreppein

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 04:22 PM

So, quick question.   I am trying to remove the heating element from the assembly to install the new one. The plug things (the flat parts sticking through the assembly that connect to the wire slides) have maybe a bent piece to hold them in there?  Can I flatten that with a flat pliers in order to slide it out and do I have to do that to the new one too?

 

Also, is there anything critical to know in the install or rebuliding, like...."Whatever you do, don't touch the __________ to the __________".  

 

As for the resistance testing, I am new to the multimeter and my general reading is either "a reading" or "no reading".   Will that work in general in my future repairs?  No reading turned out to be true; there is an obvious break in the coil.  

 

Thanks so much,

 

 



#8 kkreppein

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Posted 18 January 2013 - 06:21 PM

And also, in trying to replace the heater assembly into the dryer, with the "die heater" slot and the cutout in the way back, how do I finagle this into the sort of holder bits in the back.  Any tricks?  I think it has to be waaaay back, but I'm not sure how it fits in.

 

*die heater is from the parts list in the exploded view.  Again, thanks.



#9 narodsobe

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:35 PM

HI there,

not sure if you are done (hope for your sake you are), but I did this once (and I'm so excited that I get to do it again!) and found it really daunting to deal with this part of the install. Also, as you've probably found--stuff along this assembly is sharp! And the angle makes it hard to grab/bend. I am not sure if it is at all helpful but when I did mine last year I opened the machine from the back and I remember telling myself that if I did this again I would do it from the back. There were definitely some expletives flying, but it worked. Also one thing I am putting on my list is getting a tight pair of those dipped gloves. 


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#10 Comstock_Services

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 02:15 PM

So, quick question.   I am trying to remove the heating element from the assembly to install the new one. The plug things (the flat parts sticking through the assembly that connect to the wire slides) have maybe a bent piece to hold them in there?  Can I flatten that with a flat pliers in order to slide it out and do I have to do that to the new one too?

 

Also, is there anything critical to know in the install or rebuliding, like...."Whatever you do, don't touch the __________ to the __________".  

 

As for the resistance testing, I am new to the multimeter and my general reading is either "a reading" or "no reading".   Will that work in general in my future repairs?  No reading turned out to be true; there is an obvious break in the coil.  

 

Thanks so much,

Yes #1 you will need a pair of needle nose pliers to Flatten out the blades on the Terminals in the ceramic block on the side of the heater housing. On the new heater after you stick the terminals in you will need to bend the little tab, so that they don't slide around in there and they stay put when you put the Connectors (wire slide thing) in place.

 

#2 after you take the screws out of the top, ( I think 6 of them) and the top ones only out of the Thermostat, and cut off. you will catch at the front near the ceramic block. Use your needle nose pliers to adjust the tab there that is holding it in place.

 

#3 remove the heater, and install the new one. If you need anymore help just ask, and we'll do our best to walk you through it.



HI there,

not sure if you are done (hope for your sake you are), but I did this once (and I'm so excited that I get to do it again!) and found it really daunting to deal with this part of the install. Also, as you've probably found--stuff along this assembly is sharp! And the angle makes it hard to grab/bend. I am not sure if it is at all helpful but when I did mine last year I opened the machine from the back and I remember telling myself that if I did this again I would do it from the back. There were definitely some expletives flying, but it worked. Also one thing I am putting on my list is getting a tight pair of those dipped gloves. 

 ????? What do you mean go through the back, for this repair? Only reason I ask is that the only way I know to do this repair easy is to remove the drum and do it from the top of the heater, with the base of the heater box still in place.


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#11 narodsobe

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 10:29 PM

I ended up taking the front off as well. Somehow in my last time of doing it I forgot how important it was and then realized halfway in that it was insane to think that I could get that front screw on the housing reattached without seeing it. Was fumbling around in there and then gave up, took off the top and front per the service manual. It's amazing how the maxim about thinking you can save time by taking a shortcut...you can't. It's like putting together Ikea furniture. Follow the steps. Sigh. But after I realized that I got my heating assembly in tonight (part came today) with the heating element in it. I didn't test my thermostats to see if they were bad but there was a break in the coil in the heating element. My daughter will take for show and tell. So, long story short, it's nuts to not take off the front. One thing I also remembered is that having those dipped gloves really helps and also draping towels over the sharp edges prevents you from hurting yourself pretty seriously in the process. (Forgot to take pictures. Once you're in it, there's no repose.) So...your mileage may vary...one thing that seems weird really is how simple it is. One screw and then the housing for the unit. If you can, remember the pattern for the wires before you pull them! ;-) 


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