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Asko T731 Dryer won't heat


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19 replies to this topic

#1 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:55 PM

Well, it was heating just fine before I fixed it! After replacing the drive belt it no longer heats. Any ideas on what to check first?

 

BTW, when disassembling it I noticed one of the wires in harness was not plugged in. I don't think I knocked it loose, but thought I'd throw that in just in case it is pertinent.



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#2 jb8103

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 06:59 PM

Is it plugged in?


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#3 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:00 PM

Is it plugged in?

:) Yes, drum is spinning great after the new belt, but just room temp air.



#4 KCTBURY

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:04 PM

Did you have it unpluged while you worked on it?



#5 KCTBURY

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:09 PM

I believe there is a high temp limit reset on the back of the unit. I would check that first by pushing the reset button on the high limit. Let us know if that does or does not fix it. Either way you may have other problems.

 

What wire harness is unplugged?



#6 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:13 PM

Did you have it unpluged while you worked on it?

Yes. That would have been a feat to replace the belt while it was plugged in!  :tongue:



I believe there is a high temp limit reset on the back of the unit. I would check that first by pushing the reset button on the high limit. Let us know if that does or does not fix it. Either way you may have other problems.

 

What wire harness is unplugged?

It is a single green wire if I remember correctly. I guess I should unstack it and take a look at it tonight. D**n.



#7 kdog

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:34 PM

All Green Wires should terminate at cabinet - Check for proper supply voltage (120v/240v)

 

http://appliantology...they-important/

 

4prong_dryer_outlet.jpg


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#8 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:36 PM

Ok, checked it out. The dangling wire is a single green wire labeled R34. I see an empty terminal where I think it should probably go. There is not much slack in the wire so I'm thinking when I took the back panel off I inadvertently jerked it loose. Dare I plug it in and try it without truly understanding first???



#9 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:41 PM

All Green Wires should terminate at cabinet - Check for proper supply voltage (120v/240v)

 

http://appliantology...they-important/

Are you saying this is a ground/bonding wire? Because I don't think it is. It has a female "spade" connector on it. (if that is correct terminology) One end is connected to the control board PCB, the other end is not connected to anything at the moment, but I see an empty terminal at power box...



#10 kdog

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:43 PM

Measure it's continuity to other surrounding grounds


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#11 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:48 PM

cross your fingers folks...I plugged in the wire to where I think it should go and now I'm going to see if it works...will post results of fire or success...



#12 kdog

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:50 PM

:fakenopic:


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#13 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 08:14 PM

:D kdog, my browser doesn't show your graphic completely, but I think I get the point... :wink:

 

However, my little conundrum has a happy ending. Success! Plugged the loose wire in and !voila! I FEEEL the heat!

 

EDIT: Oops, forgot to say Thank You to you guys who tried to help! So... Thanks Guys!  :rocker:


Edited by Beez, 20 January 2013 - 08:21 PM.


#14 Beez

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 08:18 PM

You know one other thing before this topic is closed... When I was putting the cabinet back together after replacing the drive belt, I was looking around at other parts so that I would remember if/when they break. Saw the heating coils, check, then double-take... looked closer and there was quite a bit of lint and hair jammed up around them! Isn't that kind of dangerous? Is it normal to see lint there?



#15 kdog

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 12:50 AM

When you got it apart, the vacuum cleaner should be close at hand


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#16 Beez

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 11:22 AM

When you got it apart, the vacuum cleaner should be close at hand

Yes, and that's exactly what happened. Well vacuum cleaner + clothes hanger. The question is, is it normal to see lint buildup around the heating coils? If so, it seems periodic disassembly and cleaning should be a requirement. Which is no small job because to get at the coils on this model you have to remove the back panel. And that sounds easier than it is in practice.



#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 12:04 PM

Excessive lint accumulation inside a dryer is a pretty reliable indicator of a dryer vent with excessive back pressure.  Since the back pressure is too high for the blower's volumetric flow rate, the static pressure inside the exhaust duct and vent system causes exhaust to escape through duct connection seams, especially the one inside the dryer, causing the lint accumulation.  The cure is to install a proper vent system.  



#18 Beez

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 12:23 PM

Excessive lint accumulation inside a dryer is a pretty reliable indicator of a dryer vent with excessive back pressure.  Since the back pressure is too high for the blower's volumetric flow rate, the static pressure inside the exhaust duct and vent system causes exhaust to escape through duct connection seams, especially the one inside the dryer, causing the lint accumulation.  The cure is to install a proper vent system.  

I see...that makes sense. So would a long run of say, 25-30 feet cause the back pressure? The vent tube itself is good. I know because I have inspected it. And I feel what seems like good airflow at the terminus. However, there are two 90 degree bends in the system... If I shorten the run length by more than half would you consider that a proper fix? There is not an easy way to get around the two elbows. The house is pier and beam foundation, and the dryer vent goes through the floor and out one of the vents in the crawl space.



#19 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 12:56 PM

I see...that makes sense. So would a long run of say, 25-30 feet cause the back pressure?

 
Yes.
 
 

The vent tube itself is good.


 
What is that material: smooth-walled, rigid aluminum duct sections or the slinky collapsible stuff?
 
 

I know because I have inspected it. And I feel what seems like good airflow at the terminus.

 
 
Unless you have a calibrated palm like us certifiable Appliantologists, then you can't really tell if the exhaust pressure is good or not because you don't have the experiential basis for comparison.  In that case, you need to rely on an instrument, such as this pressure tester ==> http://www.repaircli...0106710/1447456
 
 

However, there are two 90 degree bends in the system... If I shorten the run length by more than half would you consider that a proper fix? There is not an easy way to get around the two elbows. The house is pier and beam foundation, and the dryer vent goes through the floor and out one of the vents in the crawl space.

 

I refer you to the Oracle: The Ultimate Dryer Venting Guide ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-venting-guide/



#20 Beez

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 01:15 PM

oops...left my rib open...ouch  doh!...left the groin open as well... DANG-A-LANG...there goes the knee!!!

 

But seriously, yes the vent needs work. The good news is that except for a short run of aluminum flex from dryer to floor, the rest is rigid steel. And I was wrong about the elbows. Only one is 90(out of dryer), the other is 45. I'll have to look at it again, but best I remember there is a crawl space vent much closer than the one originally installed to. Have no idea why they chose the farther one...






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